Ross

Thats my backup plan, just checking to make sure there isn't an alternative first......

Just got a price for P/N 499987006, the socket wrench for the cylinder head nuts on ohv engines, $60 NZ (US$45) and its ex-japan, so will take over a month to get here. I can't really wait that long. Can anyone get these cheaper and faster, or does anyone know of an alternative? Cheers.

Have you checked out prices on aftermarket tie rods? Can get them for around US$30 each here, then you just need to get a wheel alignment done.

Old subies always have some camber. This is especially so if you have your struts adjusted up. I would not replace your struts unless you are sure they are bent or worn out.

Its the '84 fsm, heres a pic of the bit im talking about. Its certainly not obvious.

Hi, I just re-read the section in the fsm about installing heads. You DO need to re-torque the heads after warming the engine up and letting it cool again. The manual says this at the start of the section, not in sequence so i missed it last time i looked. The only way you can get around this is with an aftermarket head gasket - most of these are "monotorque" types nowdays. The oem ones are not as far as i know.

I just bought a gasket set for my '81 ea81, it was listed for all ea81s, and it only came with 4 valve seals.

If you end up needing an ea81 panel, i know where a couple are, so give me a yell if you get stuck.

Often wondered that myself, i doubt there is any reason you couldn't wire it differently, as long as you keep the injectors paired right.

85.... isnt that an ea82 style instrument panel? If it is, i don't think it will fit.

Sounds like a good idea to leave them off if they wern't on there to start off with. Out of interest, what year is your engine/is it hydraulic lifter?

Arn't those rear wheels sitting a long way forward?

From an ea81? oh yes, now that i have to see! (is that a guess, or have you dyno'd it?)

Sounds odd. I know some ea81s got thier most torque at 2800rpm.

translation: Mr 4 (i think)

I shouldn't think it actually superheats it as such, as the thing is attached to the injector. I think it just pre heats it so it is closer to vaporisation point.

Interesting. I'm wondering weather the hydraulic lifter engines came without seals on the exhaust valves, while the solid lifter ones did. My (hydraulic) ea81t does not have exhaust valve seals. Not sure whether my (solid) '81 ea81 does or not, ill have to have a look.

The 15-20% claim seems high, seems like a sound idea though. Any increase in vaporisation is a good thing.

Your '82 ea81 should not have hydraulic lifters, so you can adjust the Tappet clearences to 0.25mm intake, 0.35mm exhaust (COLD).

That is odd. The '84 FSM clearly shows that only the intake valve stems have rubber seals. Does anyone know if other years are different?

I did it on an ea81, so it will be different. My wiring diagram for an 87 shows a switched earth wire coming out of the instrument cluster. Its colour is Black/Red. It then has a connector (no idea where) where it changes to Black, this runs all the way to the light.

I used the wire that turns the inside light on when a door is opened.

We speak of the ea81. Perhaps Beegeer is talking about an ea82 too?

It came with 8 rubber seals? Maybe some models have seals on the exhaust valves? One possible prob i can see is that the exhaust valves/valve guides may get too hot for the rubber seals. What exactly is your engine?

Baisically i think the exhaust valve guide acts as a seal.