Ross

Unlikely to be crushed, but if your bearings get really bad and start locking up the spacer can wear. Another thing to check is wear of the housing itself from the outer race spinning. I have had this problem before on an ea81 wag. Bearings lasting as little as 10,000km. You should be able to see if the faces of the spacer or housing have been worn.

Check the strut isn't slightly bent too, thats easy to do if you're getting air.

Unlikely if its new. Get an old bit of cable and connect to battery and touch the solenoid coil pin and see if the starter goes. If it does, your prob is the ignition switch or associated wiring.

......... thats incredible, best i have from the ea81t wagon is about 450km!!

THe starter is new, but is the solenoid? If not, try dismantling it and check the condition of the contacts inside. Presume a never fail button would be putting a push button in the solenoid circuit instead of the ignition switch, since a dirty/worn ignition switch can limit the current flowing through the solenoid coil sufficiently to stop it engaging.

I've generally found it to be closer to 5 litres, or a bit over 1 US gallon after the light goes on till you start having trouble. Varies a fair bit car to car though....

Yep, it starts dinging at you above that, then it self destructs instantly killing all occupants along with any unfortunate tail-gaters.

Instrument Panel: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19024&size=big&cat=500

Was stoked to find these wheels for sale a few months back. They may look like the old subaru factory imitation cheviot turbos, but they aren't. They are actually a genuine cheviot wheel, and look much nicer than the imitation ones.... less backspacing than the factory ones too, so the wheels stick out just that little bit extra. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19023&cat=500 Note the annoying location of the valve though......

did you just want the controls or the heater box etc? here are teh controls on mine anyway. This is the same for all the soobs I have seen, except some don't have teh A/C button. No idea what button, if any, would have gone in the space beside teh A/C button..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19022&cat=500

No, but I'll try remember to take some tonight for you....

Huh. Wonder why they did that. Where is the button to turn air conditioning on/off on yours? It is also on that panel on our ones.

So on the US models, is there no way to select recirc or fresh air for the heater system? I have never seen a car without this......

It is definitely a relay, not sure what for though....

I suspect that is a USA legislation thing or something, because that does not appear in manuals from other countries. Mine, for example, is rated to tow 800kg unbraked, 1200kg braked.

The bike will be fine, the only thing you should be worried about at all is braking, but that shouldn't be too much of an issue with a light load like that. I regularly tow with my ea81t wagon, with trailer weights of up to 2000kg (obviously only short around town trips with trailers that heavy though....). Very hard on your clutch and rear shocks, and good trailer brakes (electronic ones, NOT overrun!) are a must, as is properly setting up tongue load. As for long open road trips, I'd be reluctant to tow more than 700kg or so...

Yes, they do.

Its the black plastic thing with four terminals on it inside the distributor... You just have to take the cap, rotor and maybe a few more bits off to get at it. There is no way to test it since your problem is only intermittant... therefore it is best to rule out everything else before trying a new one of these... (they aren't cheap!). Check that the four wires going to the module are in good condition and that the connectors are firm. You may as well feel teh distributor shaft for play while you are in there. There will be some up/down play, but there shouldn't be very much side to side play at all.

Seeing as teh tach is droping all the way to zero, and that this occurs only when hot, I would suspect a dodgey ignition module first.

Legacies were also available with part time, dual range transfers in some parts of the world. I think they had ej18s. Not sure what year this option was available till tho - quite possibly only till '94 as well.

I wish i'd taken a photo of mine when I was towing a lwb suzuki vitara/escudo on a trailer with it..... didn't like that much..... ~1200kg at a guess for the zuk, and ~500kg for the trailer....

Do they still have a centrifugal advance in the distributor? If so, i had a spring fall off one of the arms of the one in my ea81t a while back, caused similar symptoms....

They are just fine in their stock form, and I have most of my spare one in parts in my garage which I would consider parting with. Can't quite remember what is and isn't there, but I'll check it out if you are interested...

The one on top of the thermostat housing isn't a sensor, it heats the throttle bypass valve.. That link doesn't work for me....

I would imagine that the units are lubricated with a drying silicone grease or something similar from the factory.... the spray on silicone grease should work well if the unit is not rusty already. You do want a dry(ish) lubricant, but as GD says, seeing as you arn't putting a key into your seatbelt spool you can use something a little nicer than graphite...