Ross

The original ea81t will be difficult to find. (i take it you no longer have any of the original one?). Not impossible, but difficult. You could probably find an ea82t (overhead cam turbo) cheaper, and that will fit, but wil require some work. Any ea81 will fit very easily.

Oh dear...... just took the wagon for the first long drive since i put the oil pressure gauge on..... after a while the pressure was sitting below 20psi at 2500-3000rpm. I think i might want to stop driving it till i get this sorted.

I certainly will, a subie with a diesel would be very handy.

Idi?

Was down at the local Repco (parts) store the yesturday looking through a catalogue, for engine bearings i think, and saw a strange listing. Subaru Leone Diesel - '92 onwards i think. Listings for a 1700cc, 2000cc and 2200cc diesel engine, the engine numbers looked like they were a Nissan engine. What the??? oh, the 1700 one was listed as 4wd too.

Anyone think I should check the oil strainer? There is a lot of grime in this engine, so it may be blocked.

Well, got the new oil pump and put it on yesturday. No change in the oil pressure. The old pump looked like it had been replaced resonably recently. Thats ok though, at least i have a good one for my other ea81. So, im thinking it must be worn bearings. Is there something else that could be causing this? Its around 5-15 deg. celcius here at the moment, so i dont think my 10w40 is too thin or anything.

Thanks, that confirms my suspisions. Either: 1. whoever rebuilt (if you could call it that) the engine replaced the hydraulic lifters with solid ones for some reason. It does still have the pushrods for the hydraulic ones, can they be used with solids? 2. the HLA's are completely, and utterly, stuck.

:confused:

The clutch wont engage if your refrigerant level is low. They do leak over time, so that may be your prob?

Anyone on how to find "Zero point"? ie is there still pressure on the rocker/pushrod after unscrewing the adjuster 1.5 turns from zero point?

I'd say it may be cheaper to find a gearbox with less kms on it. My gearbox has a horrible rattle in the transfer case anyway.

IF the valves were adjusted properly to begin with, they shouldn't need adjusting. In this case your problem may be low oil pressure or stuck lifters. They may not have been adjusted properly, like mine. Im having trouble with finding the "zero point". (see my post on that).

My engine has been reconditioned by someone who obviously had no idea. The tappets have been adjusted as if they were solid lifters, so im trying to adjust them properly. Either that, or they've replaced the hydraulic lifters with solids. Can anyone shed some light on the question above?

The slop i'm talking about is not caused by the output shafts themselves. Although there is some slop in them, its not nearly as severe. The slop i'm talking about is the inner cv moving on the output shaft. ie the splines of the output shaft have worn badly.

Whether your car should have a computer or not depends on year and model. your 83 most likely shouldn't have a computer. What is the other car in question? If it did have a computer, it certainly wont run without it.

Could also be an ignition coil or ingnition module. Would the coolant temperature sensor cause such severe problems?

So, if you unscrew the adjuster further from the "zero point" does the rocker/pushrod go slack immediately, or should the spring in the hla keep some pressure on it?

you have to be 20 over there? Dang indeed.

You could bribe a homeless person with a bottle of bourbon.

You don't always need to get it machined, but unless your gonna measure it, it would probably pay to. You should be able to find a place that has experience machining flywheels, they'll know what to do. Its not hard, but it has to be done to the right specs or your in trouble.

You don't need a hoist, just a friend. Pilot, thrust bearings, clutch disk, pressrue plate, machine flywheel. Do the rear seal if its leaking.

was just doing the adjustment procedure for the hydraulic lifters, following a manual, and after leaving the valves open for 15 mins, it says: "unscrew the rocker screw untill the rocker arm stops moving due to closing of valve. this point is called 'zero point'" At this point, should the rocker become free, or should there be pressure on it still from the spring inside the hla? This is for ea81 by the way.

Have you considered an aftermarket engine management system? Might be a better option if your planning on running 14psi in the long run.

like what?