Ross

They should both screw in to the same hole, only difference is the 85-86 one is two wire and is wired up to a knock control unit, while the 87+ one has one wire and is wired to teh computer. Might be interesting if you have to tap that hole, its not very deep and i think its a tapered thread.

The '83's (or at least the ones we have in NZ) still had solid rotors (mine has). I gotta find me some ventilated ones, these solid ones suck.

Damn, its saturday here.

bounce.

They are the same as non turbo ea81s. It seems that if its an '83, the disks are solid, and if its '84 they are ventilated. (same as teh rest of them). The rear drums are also the same as non turbo ones.

When you advance the timing, you bring the spark forward, so that it fires further before top dead centre. This is to allow time for the fuel to combust. Hence BTDC - before top dead centre.

Yep, you need to remove the dirve axle to do the bearings. You can take teh whole steering knuckle/axle assembly out whole. The ball joints just get replaced, they are fairly cheap.

I think you mean before.

When you grab the inner cv, how much can you wobble it?

No. Any more than 1/3 full and you risk overheating the bearings.

Not sure about ea82s, but it seems normal with the ea81s. Especially the ones before they put the higher roof on. Annoying sometimes, but they do make an excellent drum.

Shouldn't be any binding, the awd legacies ive driven are smooth as. Your car shouldn't be that slow with the weber, if you like the car you should fix the vacuum leaks and any other probs and it should go well. THey are not exactly fast, but they should have plenty of get up and go for normal driving.

The radiator in my turbowagon looks identical to my carbie one from waht i reemember. The only difference is the carbie one has a larger, non recovery type cap, but i think thats cos its an '81 rather than an '83. I will have another look tonight to make sure, but im pretty certain they are the same.

Wilkommen. Dunno about your other q's, but you do want to get that engine cooling prob sorted. If your radiator looks ok, i would have it cleaned (they take the tanks off and run pipe cleaner things down it). If that doesn't fix it, you could try the pump.

There is an excessive amount of play between the inner cv joint and the splined output shaft on my 4 DR. Just wondering if others also have this? im wondering if it could be causing a horrible vibration at highway speeds that seems to followed this tranny from my old 81 to the '83 turbowagon.

Thats why i've never bothered re packing them, i just replace them. Go directly to someone like SKF for the bearings and they are cheap - if you buy them from the dealer or car parts place they are much more expensive. Even with tapered roller bearings its impossible to tell their condition unless they are really bad.

A dirft is useful for disassebly, bu tif you are planing on re using the bearings, make sure you only tap on the outer race, and make sure you dont damage the cage.

Bad brake fluid can cause spongyness, but if you've bled the %^$*% out of it you've probably very near replaced it anyway. Sure its not your shoes?

Replace the motor with a faster one? Put the previously mentioned Jetta wiper drive in there?

diy? I was not aware that you could recondition these units without disassembling any rotating components. Once you do that you have to get it balanced.

ie you need to replace it

The gen 2 ones are pretty crap compared with new ones too.

No prob. In new zealand there is a range of these zinc paints available with varying zinc contents. The one i have has something like 98% zinc, so should work well. Its canned by someone in austrailia, so you wont be able to get the same brand, but you should be able to find an equivalent.

Idealy you want it galvanised - thats a little drastic though. There are paints available with a high zinc content in them - they will provide galvanic corrosion protection like galvanising. You might want to look in to something along these lines.

Just checked their website, there are a number of outlets in your state. Have a look here: http://www.skf.com