Ross

You're joking, right?

If you dismantle any of the rotating components the shaft will have to be balanced again. If you can do it without, it will be ok.

Easy method for removing pilot bearing if you don't have a small enough puller: Fill the recess behind the bearing with grease (push it through the hole that the input shaft goes into). Then find a bolt that roughly fits into the inner race, and tap it in. This pressurises the grease behind the bearing and pops it out, just like that.

They still had ea81s in them too i think. Now that would be a find - 1 '94 ea81!

Thats a good point. I wonder what the reasoning behind going to 4 stud was? I spose its probably just because the larger PCD makes the whole assembly stronger.

Changing disty is not hard, as long as you get the right one and line it up correctly you'll be sweet. I just take a photo of the original distributer before i take it out (with the top off) and use that to line the new one up.

If you look at the front 3/4 shot, you can clearly read R15 on the sidewall.

N/A = Normally Aspirated (no supercharging) To maintain factory compression ratio, yes you do have to use turbo pisons. You can, however, stay with the N/A pistons if you want more power, but you would probably have to add an intercooler and use high octane gas to prevent detonation. Apart from that, the shortblock is the same as far as i know.

I wouldn't assume the block is cracked. You will probably find all it needs are rings, headgasket, maybe head repair, valve grinding etc. Only one way to find out anyway. If the block is dead, you can use a N/A block, you just have to drill & tap a hole for the knock sensor. You should be able to get any cracks in the head repaired. These engines seem to be mechanically sound in design, so i wouldn't expect too much damage unless it has been horribly overheated.

The air suspension system is a common prob, i think its usualy the air bags that go. You can swap them for coil overs from another ea82 just fine, its probably not worth trying to fix the air suspension.

Does the tach jump up or down? If its just jumping down, its probably a problem in the reference pulse circuit (ign module, coil, connecting cables etc).

A bit of guard bending would fix that!

Anyone know what the differences are between the different engiens? Is it just boost pressure, or something more drastic like a different cam?

Hmmmm- i should Dyno mine - it is a jap one.

Get some offset feeler gauges, straight ones are much more difficult to get in there. And a bright torch.

Seems hard to find any info on these engines. I wonder what engine the Japanese cars got, the Euro or the US?

If the distributor hasn'n been off since the car was running well, i would be inclined to rule out timing. It would have to be a long way off before it would cause such severe power loss, like off a couple of teeth. When you are driving at full throttle, does the car jump around? This would be indicative of a bad ignition system. If it just has no power but seems smooth enough, i would go for the carb or other aspiration probs. Are you sure you lined up the timing belts right?

You could get a real supercharger second hand (off a 2l toyota or something) for less than that, and would give you much more power.

bearings come with high pressure grease in them when they are equipped with sheilds - including the 7206 used in the front of the subie. I get bearings with one sheild which i leave facing outwards, as it provides an extra barrier against moisture that gets past the seals. As for hitting a socket with a hammer, don't forget to put a block of wood between, or use a dead blow hammer, otherwise you'll end up with a shattered hammer or socket. All of my bearings that i have done on my own and others cars have been done without the use of a press (both deep groove ball and tapered roller), and i have never had to re do one yet (The rear ones in my 81wagon have done 80,000 without a repack so far). Compare that to the one i had done on the front of my 81 wagon by a specialist subaru garage that only lasted 20,000km, and i can't see any advantage in using a press.

Sorry no pic, but i can tell you that anything you make up will undoubtably be better than what is on there stock. Prick of a thing.

The ea81 is tuned for max torque at lower revs than the ea82. If you are looking at using one for aircraft, the ea81 is the way to go i thinkm as it is lighter, and there is a whole range of aftermarket parts designed for aircraft use for the engine. THese include twin spark heads, fuel injection systems, new manifolds etc. THey are also a very good reliable engine in stock form.

Have seen a few people mention geasing the new bearings before putting them in. Many bearings these days come pre-greased. You will probably want to add more gease, as others have mentioned (the grease that comes in them is used rather sparingly!), but i thought i would just mention the importance of cleaning ALL existing grease from the bearings. Different greases (even similar ones with subtle differences) are NOT compatible with each other, and can turn in to a thick goo (a bit like plasterscene) when mixed under high pressrue. Before adding grease clean them with kerosene or petrol or whatever, as long as its very clean!

Yes, your voltage regulator is probably bad, it is inside your alternator. Too high voltage (above 15v or so) is very bad, and can burn out a whole list of stuff.

They can be very difficult to get moving sometimes, but they do turn in. You can't just push them in like on many other front disk break calipers because of the front wheel handbreak.

Yo do have to adjust you torque wrench settings when using an offset head such as a crows foot. A fairly simple procedure involving a ruler, it is outlined in many tool catalogues and so on.