Ross

hmmmm, i don't know much about the FT 4wd boxes, but i don't think taking the front axles off will stress it more than it can handle - in some conditions much of hte power probably goes to the rear anyway (not sure how the split is controled - does it have a center diff lock?). Personally, i'd be doing some fidlling to get it handling right in 4wd anyway. With some suspension adjustments/modifications (or not even) an rx should handle pretty well i should think..

I would change to manual, weather the at is the prob or not! Horrible things if you plan on doing highway driving, they have no torque converter lock out, and 3rd is (or seems cos of t/c slip) even lower than 4th on the 4speeds! PLus, the HUGE :rolleyes:100hp or so feels like much more with the manual in!

What height do these shocks sit at? The same as the turbo ones or the regular 4wd ones? Just wondering.

Thanks guys, i replaced the module with a second hand one out of an ea82t, and has fixed the problem!! I'm still baffled about the white wire on the coil, the two factory yellow ones are there too, but engine wont start without the white one??? spose it doesn't matter too much, it goes goo now! One thing that worries me: THe module i bought has different numbers on it (the white painted ones): the original one said something like 15x5, the ea82t one says something like 20x5 (not sure if the numbers are right, the cars' not here at the moment). Do these mean anything? Thanks.

The cooling prob sounds very much like a sticking thermostat, try replacing it. As for the other probs, i'd check the ignition system (coil, leads, plugs etc) before looking at anything else.

Nah, definitley two rods poking out - the hi/lo range one goes right to the front, the 4/2 wd is further rear. (i think its that way round anyway).

but the big question is: Do the inake ports work as cup holders?? Or just ash trays?

Does anyone know if the ea81t knock sensors are the same as the ea82t ones? Went to a junk yard, and the ea82t one looked quite different, although it may just be a different connection on top?

nah, by the looks of that impreza write up, its nearly the same as the 80s ones. I think it may be a bit easier though.

Its possible - the run may have cleared the radiator some, but it would be a good idea to get it flushed anyway.

These made no difference, ignition still cutting out. I have tried runnign the coil straight off the battery, still no diff. Wires between coil & distributor seem fine. Apart from the module, is there anything else?? HAs anyone ever experienced a module failing this way? The engine willl always run to some extent, which from what i have heard, is odd for a dead module. ANother odd thing, there is a large whiteish wire coming off the negative side of the coil, that does not appear on my wiring diagram. The engine will not run without it. Does anyone know what this is? cheers.

My old wagon did this too (just the light). new one doesn't 'cos i haven't hooked one up yet.

Yeah, i think i may have just found it. (after replacing the coil - oh well the one that was in it measured 3.6 ohms across the primary anyway!). One odd thing i noticed - there is a relay on the power source for the coil - the original power wire is only used to signal the relay, was this standard on some models (my wiring diagram doesn't show it) or has someone added it for some reason? Thanks!

THis ignition prob is driving me crazy!!! Now, the engine will sometimes momentarily cut out completely (when this happens, the tach drops), and also sometimes drastically loose power (no drop in tach, still boosting etc.). These two symptoms usually happen at roughly the same time, so i suspect they are different symptoms of the same prob. Plugs, leads, disty cap etc are all fine. ECS light does not come up. Could this be caused by a dying ignition coil?

Yeah thanks, ill probably do that untill monday, ill see how it goes!

As i mentioned in another thread, i have just broken the ea81t's knock sensor. I can't get a replacement 'til at least monday and im wondering how to make it driveable. If the knock sensor is unplugged, does it put the computer or knock control unit into a 'limp home' mode? My other option is to have the broken knock sensor plugged in but off to the side somewhere. This way the knock control unit will think everything is normal and the engine is not knocking, right? Then the question arises, how much will the engine knock if i run it like this? I suppose the other option is to walk or bike to work, but it's not appealing as its raining! Any suggestions would be appreciated!! thanks.

Tight as heck sure is right. Prob is that now i have a small stud stiking out of he block with no hex on it! Can't get vise-grips on it properly without taking the intake manifold off, and i really can't be bothered with that!! Add to that that i just found the cheapest i can get a new knock sensor is NZ$250, and it leaves me very angry!!! Does anyone know how often the knock sensor unit has to retard the timing? (is it a regular occurence, or just when something is going wrong?) If its not often, then would it be ok to leave the knock sensor wires connected with the sensor off the engine untill i get a new one?

AGGGHHHH! is it a reverse thread?? I just sheared teh top off mine trying to take it out to clean the contacts!!!! Now i have to figure out a way to get the rest of it out... Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Sorry, other way round - i can find the throttel switch but not the tps???

I am a little confused.........My manual says to check the adjustment of the idle switch......but it doesn't seem to have one???? The manual shows a round connector near the tps, but the tps is the only thing i can see - do ea81ts have idle switches? Also, i have just found out from my girlfirend (who usually drives this car) that the reference pulse problem (engine cuts out momentarily) only happens when the car is cold - once it is fully warmed up the problem disappears. This is the reverse of what i would have expected! Does anyone have any ideas about what this could be? Thanks.

I'd still like to check the throttle stop, does no one know how this is done?

I think i may have solved it - at least partially. I have just replaced th stator magnet (which was broken in many places) and disassembled the bearings for the stator/module mounting plate (the one that the vacuum advance diaphragm turns - don't suppose youve got that on your engine?) and cleaned them. Seems to be running ok now, but the ignition problem has got worse, so its a little hard to tell!

Some ej18s over here have distributors (From a very early Legacy DL I think).

Question 1: How tight is tight? These bolts are usually quite tight to turn, but if it really won't turn its probably as far as it goes. Question 3: Yes, you can adjust the tappets with the engine in the car.

I read that thread, and i have checked/replaced all the things that you mentioned . I really want to get this stop screw thing sorted out before anything else, as i know it has been moved! Cheers