murfmv

Well I'm the one who posted this in the first place. The engine and transmission weighs only about 250 lbs. Make sure you have the height and some forward space as you need to unweight the transmission end slightly as you are going out and up. We had to remove and replace the engine twice because, I never had driven my neighbor's car before I started. The original transmission turned and sounded OK. I changed oil pan, valve cover and real seal gaskets as the engine was leaking badly. Reinstalled and test ran it. What a noise that was coming from the transmission! Repulled the engine, bought a used one from the internet and reinstalled. Did an autopsy on the transmission and found the rear shaft bearing shot and also suspected fwd trans axle bearings needing replacement. I think it is easier to pull the engine transmission then just pulling the engine also if you just had engine work.

Sorry I meant to say alignment between clutch cover and flywheel

I read in All Data site and have confirmed it online that one is supposed to make the zero marks on flywheel and clutch cover be approx. 120 degrees apart. There is only 3 places that the housing can be placed because of the alignment pin. I was unable to discern any mark on the new clutch housing indicating a zero. Any ideas?

Eight feet is more than enough. I've 10-12 feet total. I don't have an engine so I plan on using at least three chain falls/come alongs. etc. Two to lift so you can manage the angle then one that can move it fwd as it is coming up. Keeping it as level as you can.

I'm totally amazed that you are doing this work in flip flops and everything is so clean. I will probably pull the radiator also, to protect and give me more room.

It looks more like motor oil

Thanks for your comments. Have loosened the CV boots and both indicate plenty of grease without tearing. Should get the axle out today and see if binding disappears. Still worried about the binding and clunking symptoms that caused the initial concern. Also there was oil leakage from the area at the engine transmission junction, possible indicating seal leak caused by increased rotational abnormality possibly caused by transmission wear.

Earlier this week I posted some questions about whether the transmission or just the Front right CV joint is bad. There is definitely a spot where the wheel gets stiff when turning with all wheels off the ground. Haven't disconnected the right CV joint yet but here is a picture of there oil from the transmission. The good news is there no metal pieces found in the oil, but there definitely is fine brass or some metallic wearing going on by the oil condition. What do you think?

I appreciate all the fine comments. I will definitely start on the right wheel and post some follow-up info. I want to say it seems like the Subaru has become the new "Car of the People" as the "bug" was many years back. I owned an early eighties Subaru and it rotted out so badly, I wouldn't get another, but I must say all of your comments have been really terrific!

I'm pretty sure it turned the same way

Once I disconnect the right CV joint, I should be able to tell if it is in the wheel or in the transmission.

I'm sorry manual transmission

It is definitely a torque bind of some kind. The CV joints are somewhat new, rusting but still having the NAPA tags on. When the car was started and engaged on the stands, there was quite an up and down movement in transmission case for a short time.

Thanks everyone. Two garages said it was the transmission, one said $5000 so we are doing it ourselves. When rotating the right wheel, when it started binding-up, the left wheel started turning. With it out of the car, I can open it up, Also can see if binding of the right wheel has stopped after removing the CV joints. This will tell you whether it is in the transmission or wheel.

I've been asked by my neighbor to replace the transmission of his daughter's 2000 outback. There is a clunking when turning to the right and the right wheel will bind in one spot when rotating it. We are in a barn and have good access from above. With the right sling and come alongs and supporting the transmission with a floor jack. I think it's possible to pull everything out from the top. Am I crazy or what?