stackman1

Just found another IAT Sensor for cheaper: Any reason to pay up? This one is $17. https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Impreza/Replacement/IAT_Sensor/2002/Outback/4_Cyl_2-dot-5L/REPS315201.html

Thanks for the feedback guys. I will get it inspected somewhere locally (Long Island) but - Geesh - I assumed inspection thresholds were at the 'State' level. I'm technically not in the city but certainly within the 'metro' area. Not sure where I should draw the line money wise......I was not a big fan of the Gubmint' to begin with - this ain't helping. I was looking at Rockauto for the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (IAT/MAP) They had two: BECK/ARNLEY 1581348 - $47 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3764595&cc=1378751&jsn=672&jsn=672 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AS185 - $87 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=657018&cc=1378751&jsn=671

Hey Everyone This board has been key for me over the years - but I fear I face my most daunting challenge yet! I have left the beautiful regulation-free confines of Minnesota/Florida and will now reside permanently in NY. So almost 17 year after purchase - I face my First Inspection! I bought my 2002 Outback Sport in August 2001 and have been religious about changing fluids and all normal maintenance. Now I'll admit, my CEL has been on for ages, but have always done obvious repairs as they arise. So of course I ignored the CEL. I have 143,000 miles and if I had stayed in Florida I would have expected to drive it another 5 years minimum but this Spring I will have to get registered in NY. This is particularly true now - since I will only be driving locally and will likely put a couple of thousand miles per year going forward. Guess I am reverse snowbird. I purchased a nice Bluetooth Scanner from Lemur (Blue Driver OBD2) and not surprisingly I had quite a few codes. I will preface this to say I have replaced the catalytic converters and O2 Sensors more than once but knew I would be seeing the P0420 Code for sure. Well the scanner threw 8 Codes: • P0327: Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1 or Single Sensor • P1507: Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe) • P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected • P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 • P0171: System Too Lean Bank 1 • P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Bank 1 • P0065: Air Assisted Injector Control Range/Performance • P0130: O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 Yeah I know, lotsa codes.... So I cleared the codes once and the CEL came back on after about 50 miles (throwing the P0113 Code). I have to study up on the Scanner to better understand the 'reset stage' each Monitor is at - after clearing the codes. I understand there are like 8 Inspection Monitor Categories(?) and they take a while to recalibrate....just trying to get a handle on how big my task is going forward. Anyway, just I started my process. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated as usual..... Peter (Long Beach NY)

The first photo shows the bolt I removed that goes through the firewall spacer and out the expansion valve The second shows you the top of that bolt. The document refers to the head as a 4mm Alan Screw. But AdviceI used a 4mm hex bit - is that why I messed it up????? It is a different tool? Wonder if it it too stripped already? Advice? http://s736.photobucket.com/user/wacko10009/media/IMG_20170605_083753.jpg.html] [http://s736.photobucket.com/user/wacko10009/media/IMG_20170605_083803.jpg.html]

Have you ever replaced an expansion valve? It is a pain in the rump roast lining up everything from the engine side. So if my expansion valve/spacer connection is the issue and I am able to get everything more flush - I will pull a vacuum on it again. If it holds - the hell with the oily crimped hose. I'll just recharge it and try to get through the summer. But now it's the f##king stripped hex head that I have to figure out. Guess I'll see if my mechanic knows how to get the long second hex bolt out. The subaru parts are really expensive - buying a crimped charge hose is $$$.

Well I knew I had to do it so I went back in and dropped the blower motor and I feel more confident that my vacuum leak issue is between the the evaporator lines and the expansion valve. A parts diagram shows there are no o-rings between the two (I can't remember I mistakenly put them on) but you can see the evap lines are not flush with expansion valve - I am hoping just a bad tightening job. As I said earlier - the evap line/expansion valve/aluminum firewall spacer/low pressure line connection was a nightmare.. So working once more from the engine side, I removed the center bolt that goes into the spacer and the first long hex bolt that you can see protruding out of the evap line connector in the picture. But I f$$king stripped the hex head on the second 4mm Hex bolt and can't remove it! It is enough to make you crazy.......the hex head is below the surface so I can't use a pliers. http://s736.photobucket.com/user/wacko10009/media/short.jpg.html]

That hose line has forever been oily near the crimp. But it apparently wasn't bad enough to leak all the refrigerant in the past. So I'm thinking I should work up the energy to recheck all my work Ugh.....more brusied knuckles and cursing. That spacer in the firewall is a nightmare with the rubber holder and getting the expansion valve to line up with the hex bolts coming in from the firewall through the spacer is almost a two man job.

Hey Tex - Those compressor o-rings were the first thing that I changed.

Hey guys and gals - With the help of this board I have been able to make my summer trek to Florida (from NY) in a pretty cool car. Learned a lot about a/c along the way. (This after a dealership mechanic gave my a/c compressor the Last Rites about 8 years ago!) Lately I developed some freezing lines as well as a loss of cooling. Since I had some credits with Subaru that were about to expire I decide to invest in a new thermosensor and expansion valve. There was a known issue with the old thermosensor on my model. The new one actually gets inserted into the fins of the evaporator and also is now seated on the lower right. I had previously changed the expansion valve before and was prepared for battle. I got to eventually got the evaporator (after a fair amount of cursing) and switched the thermosensor and even repacked the evaporator with new insulation. I then tackled the expansion valve. Anyone that has done it, knows you need to loosen nuts and hex bolts on the engine side of the firewall. Got the lines disconnected from the spacer that sits in the firewall and took out the expansion valve from the inside. I also bought a new rubber gasket for the elliptical hole in the firewall that the spacer sits on. But It took me forever to get it back in the hole with the spacer and then reconnect the expansion valve. I replaced every o-ring - even those on the compressor. It was a bitch. Called it a day. This morning I put the vacuum pump on it and while my gauges show it draws down to -29hg while the pump is running....the minute I turn the vacuum pump off - the pressure goes to back zero. Clearly something is loose. I can't bring myself to attack this again - at least not today - I figured I'd step away and write to you mavens. But the idea of dropping the blower motor again, taking away the white plastic cover to expose the evaporator and expansion valve, mess with the spacer - sucks. In my bones I would guess it is likely an issue with the seal between the evaporator lines and the expansion valve or the expansion valve and spacer and the low pressure lines. The bowels of the a/c system I never want to see again. Must I go back in? If I recharge the system without a vacuum will it all be for naught and just never last very long? I need some advice. Leaving for Florida in a couple of weeks - will be a very hot trip if I don't resolve. Any suggestions very much appreciated. Peter

Good Point Dave. I must have been reading about automatic transmissions with regard to slipping.

I was planning on using conventional oil. I have 145,000 miles on it and from what I read the synthetic might be so good it could cause slipping?

I handle most of my fluid maintenance but am bringing my 2002 Impreza Outback Sport (MT) into my local mechanic and want to buy the proper manual transmission oil . My owners manual chart indicates I will need 3.7 qts of GL-5 85W for the manual transmission. For the rear differential a Haynes book for Legacy and Forester (2000-2006) suggests GL-5 75W-90 and .8 qts Questions: I understand I can use the same fluid for the MT and Rear Differential. Any brand recommendations for the oils? GL-5 85W for both? (If I can't find - just use GL-5 75W-90??? Thanks in Advance - Guys/Gals Pete

Tex - I'm quite sure it was my problem when I put the thermostat in. I didn't check the gasket. I suspect it was off track in places because when I unbolted the housing, the thermostat just fell in my catch pan. After I tested the thermostat and properly made sure the gasket was in the deep groove all around - it sat in the water pump housing without me having to hold it. Since re-seating the thermostat - no temp problems. Just this hose thing and that seems fixed now! Thanks

Well - I pulled the old hose off and it was the OEM - it wasn't three pieces it had a protective sleeve as suggested. I tried twisting it away on the radiator side but it was till too close to fan. The inlet end of hose was flush against the notch so I just put the new Napa hose on. Fit like a glove. No sleeve but not close to anything hot or spinning. Educational bit of maintenance for me. The one question that remains is - when I had the thermostat in wrong - and drove the 5 miles and instantly went red. Does that likely mean that the improperly seated thermostat allowed no coolant into engine block and the coolant in the block just started to boil? Or was there even coolant in the block? Here is my new nose:

Well I am the lone owner - 15 years and counting. Don't ever recall having a dealer or anyone else replace my radiator hose. But I agree it is strange. Looks like I can buy one from Napa for about about $17 bucks. Weird??? https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBG9128/NBG9128_0226480167