tbolt1003

Thank you for all the replies!!

Thanks!! Helps to narrow down my selections on the shelves.

I've spent the better part of this morning researching the proper fluid requirements for my differentials, and need help. I'm going to be changing the fluid in both my front and rear diffs. I've found that a GL-5 with a viscocity of 75W-90 is the way to go. However, I'm seeing alot of people saying to use a full-synthetic, while others say any good non-synthetic will do. Some say the Subaru spec oil is the only acceptable route to go. Others say a fluid rated for limited slip diffs is needed. Alot of WRX and STi conversation, but little seen about the basic cars. My car is a '95 Impreza L wagon with the 2.2, auto, 135,000 miles. Not looking to start one of those oil debates, just do I need anything special for my basic daily driver. Thanks!

We had them on our 99 Forester and, overall, they were a nice tire. Got her through many snowstorms, and even showed-up my Expedition in a foot of snow. While I was sunk, spinning opposite tires, her Forester with the RT's dug in and went right up our driveway, plowing the snow with the airdam as she went. The beauty of Symmetrical AWD. I'd give the thumbs up for them!

I've had great luck with the Kelly Explorer Plus. Overall excellent wet and dry traction and decent in snow. Got our Forester through one storm last year that dumped a foot on us overnight.

Thanks for the responses. I'll check the fluid level when it's cold in the morning and see how it is. The light was on this afternoon leaving work, but only for maybe a mile, then it went out and stayed out for the remainder of my 25 mile commute.

I've had a strange thing happen in the last week. When the temps have dropped into the 30s overnight, when I start my 95 Impreza (133k), the brake light on the dash is on. Emergency brake is released. After driving a few miles, the light goes out. The brake fluid reservoir is full and the brakes work fine. Had a fluid flush last year after having brakes replaced. It only happens in the morning when it's been cold overnight, doesn't come on in the afternoon for the drive home. Any thoughts? Sensor sticking til it warms up?

Menta's Sunoco, corner of Rt352 & Glen Riddle Road. I've actually been using them for my car repairs for 15+ years and didn't think to ask them about something this involved. They quoted me about $550 less than the dealership.

I'm familiar with Fulmer's. That's good to know about the mechanics there.

I found a reputable shop willing to do the work at a fraction of the cost the dealer wanted.

The heater core in my '95 Impreza is leaking and needs to be replaced. I've bypassed the core for now, but with winter approaching, I need to get it replaced. I've read-up on how to do it and what's involved, but I just don't have the free time to do it right now. It was 35 degrees yesterday morning on the ride into work and not having a windshield defroster or heat didn't put me in a good place. If I supply the parts, anyone in the Philadelphia suburbs (Delaware, Chester County area) willing to do the work for me at a fair price? I went to the dealer for a quote and almost had a heart attack at the price they gave me. Thanks!

Thanks for the advice, Fairtax. Where do you edit the title? I can only edit the body of the message, don't see where to do title?

The heater core in my '95 Impreza wagon is leaking and needs to be replaced. I've bypassed the core for now, but with winter approaching, I need to get it replaced. I've read-up on how to do it and what's involved, but I just don't have the free time to do it right now. If I supply the parts, anyone in the Philadelphia suburbs area willing to do the work for me at a fair price? I went to the dealer for a quote and I about had a heart attack.

CV joints?

Is there a range of speed the sound appears, or does it happen at all speeds?

I actually purchased the Gates kit through Amazon about 4 months ago when we had the head gaskets done the first time around. For whatever reason, the shop did NOT use the Subaru gaskets when the head gaskets were done the first time around. This is not a Subaru specific facility. The passenger side of the engine developed a major oil leak between the block and the head about a month after the job was done. Took it back and they found the head gasket failed at an oil passage. I went to the dealer and bought the Subaru gasket for them to install. Car has been running ok since then, but started running rough with severe shaking at idle, throwing code for misfire on cylinder #4. I did a compression test and had 170 on cylinders 1-3, but 4 had only 30. Right after the test, the car started blowing coolant out the tailpipe and the telltale bubbles in the overflow tank appeared. Had it towed back to above facility where they determined the head gasket failed, but said the engine isn't worth repairing and should be replaced instead. I came to find out our daughter was adding coolant and water almost every day for 2 weeks while driving to and from school before she felt the need to let me know there was a problem with the car initially and it had been overheating daily. I think the demise of the engine started back then and has been slowly becoming more and more terminal without us knowing.

I got a quote today from CCR for an EJ25 for our 99 Forester and I was given a price of $3895. I believe that included shipping to PA. Still, one of the better businesses I've heard of that deal only with Subaru engines.

Thanks, grossgary

Thanks! Yes, compression was only 30 on cylinder 4 and there was a deep rooted knocking sound, so sure the bearings are shot. I'll try those sites. Thanks again, Fairtax.

Our 99 Forester with 130,000 miles is in the shop again with another blown head gasket. The shop said the engine has been overheated too often and is now done, can't be fixed without doing a total rebuild. Cylinder #4 had no compression and they think the piston rings are shot on cylinder 4. The head was sent out and came back fine, no warpage or valvetrain issues found. The shop suggested dropping a low-mileage 2.5 in after going through it and doing head gaskets, timing belt, etc., all the required things. I've heard the earlier 2.2s are a direct bolt-in. Any truth to that? My '95 Impreza has the 2.2 and is an awesome engine. I know they have less power than the 2.5 SOHC, but for a DD, is it worth looking at if I can't find a decent 2.5?

Yes, very true. I've never seen anything like this before.

Pretty sure I just found the wobble issue. Right front tire has a bulge in the tread area in a section of the crosswidth. Almost looks like something inside the tire let go and the air has pushed past it and into the actual rubber. Tread is completely gone where this bulge is. Can't see buying (4) new tires right now, as I'll be putting the snows on in a few weeks anyway. Guess snows are going on a little early this year and I'll worry about new summer tires come April. Everything else mechanical looks nice and solid up front.

Some changes to the noise now. With the fuse in the FWD holder, I can hear the humming. Not as loud as when the car is in AWD mode, but I can definitely hear the hum now. The wobble in the steering wheel has gotten a little worse. If I let go of the steering wheel at low speeds, the car will jerk slightly to the right each time the steering wheel wobbles. Once it stops raining here, I'm going to pull the wheels and try and figure things out.

I lifted the wheels off the ground on my lunch break. I can't hear anything at all as in spin the rear wheels by hand. The universal joints on the rear driveshaft look good and are nice and solid. I pulled the fuse I put in for the FWD and went for a quick ride. The noise is significantly quieter, but still noticeable on deceleration.

What does making the car FWD do to the rear drivetrain parts? Don't the driveshaft and axles keep turning while driving? Trying to also understand why the noise went away when I put a fuse in the FWD fuseholder.