OLsubedrivr

Oops, yet another double post...sorry, I can't delete

WELCOME, gotta love the 90 Legacy wagon. Had one of those new, put 300K on it. I had window and door lock problems too, the swithces got rusted and or wiring in the doors, I eventually sold it because it would lock me in. I would have to "break out" of the car, ususally thorugh the rear hatch..... ;?{

There's gold in these here hills! WELCOME

WOW..... NOW THAT'S THE BEST "BEOFRE & AFTER" I'VE EEVER SEEN!!! Welcome!!

Gotta love "free stuff", still a good investment though, you won't find a car that's been rebuilt for the cost of your parts & labor. ENJOY & WELCOME!!

Good Sube's to ya! Just put a bunch of elbow grease into a 99 Leagcy. At first I thought the previous owner had a thing for candied almonds. Turns out the "almonds" were some kind of cocoon. Found them in the ctr. console box, the seat rails and behind some of the trim pieces near the floor. The car had been sitting under a tarp for about a year. Lots of weird stuff in Baru's, besides the drivers!

We currenlty drive two, 04 Foresters, mine an X w/mt & wife has an XS w/at. Here's the new kid on the block for our daughter; 1999 Subaru Legacy 30th Anniversary SUS w/AT.

WELCOME! a 16 FOZ, that's a good 1st Subie, not much it won't do when driven w/ "refined exhuberance" ENJOY

The 90's legacy series were/are good cars. I had the 90 Legacy wgn w/5mt. 300K on that beast; 1 clutch, 1 semi major reseal@ 220k. original, struts, rack, shocks & most everything else. GOOD LUCK w/ yours.

Those Baja's are cool, I'm waiting for the right one.....someday . ENJOY yours!

Just following the thread 'cuz I have a 99 sus w/at, I have the "won't shift/accelerate" problem on the first start-up of the day. I drive it for a minute or two and after the first successful up-shift it is fine for the rest of the day. Forum searching seems to support an internal gasket leak that doesn't allow enough atf to flow until the pressure builds. I wonder if the adjustment mentioned here will help(?)

How long does the chirp last, I have an intermittent whistle/chirp from a window or windshield that lasts a couple of seconds but is so infrequent I can't locate it. There is also a muffler/baffle related chirp or whistle that occurs on older 02-06 Subes around that speed but usually during acceleration. Good luck w/ your hunting.

Thanks for the reply and advice. The boot was still on except for the mis-alignment and no real "exposure". I had to move it around and open the gap some, still saw some grease in there, very clean looking too. I'm keeping my ears & eyes on it but my gut is telling me to do as you suggested!

Ayone else seen or heard of this. After a full engine reseal & new clutch kit , I had driven a total of about 1000 miles.It was time to do a recommended 1000k oil change, I got my hill-billy creeper and got underneath, I see a large amount of grease near the steering rack arm, so I start cleaning up, I eventually see that the driver-side, large interior boot is mis-aligned on the cv case,(nearest engine). I clean it thoroughly, inspect it and there is no tear anywhere, it is clean, intact and both clamps are still on. But there is obviously enough room for grease to get thrown out. I can see that there is still some grease in the case/boot so I figure maybe I can get it back on, twenty minutes later I get it lined up and I get a very clean, secure "pop" into place. I have monitored it closely for the past 300miles and it appears to be on solidly. Any thoughts from the crew.

I think I just got lucky too! Found a nice 99 Legacy SUS that is rust free and the paint is still pretty good. During pre- purchase inspection, I was delighted to see the frame and most everything else all undercoated. My fleet of 3 used Subys today are all pretty clean for NJ cars with the lowest mileage over 150k.

That is a bummer. I recommend you find a local shop,(owner operated), that's been in business for awhile. Usually safer places with established employees and a reputation to protect. Might cost more, but many small business owners care about their customers and oil changes are a way to build trust for the big repairs. Hope that coin shows up!

Check all wheel wells for any shiny spots, freshly rubbed. Might sound like a "rear" noise but could be anywhere. How's your luggy nuts? Make sure nothing is loose in cargo areas. Uncle Bruno rules, "check the easy stuff first, so you don't look stupid later". I frequently look stupid btw...;( Good Luck

Old skool, FWIW; my old "Uncle Bruno", a great mechanic, would let us local kids hang out in his shop.We learned quite a bit about cars, life and other things as well, over the years his wisdom has served me well. His philosophy on used cars was tied to the cost and value of the vehicle in question. He would advise us; "if you buy a cheap car for a cheap price, just take care and drive it, don't spend more than 30-40% of it's cost on any single repair". Another "pearl" of his; "Look slow, be ready to buy fast" don't let the good ones slip away. Good luck on your price negotiations.

Just recently completed my first on-line tire purchase! Don't laugh, us mature Baru guys still get excited using the inter-web. Bought a set (4), General artic winter tires, after the discounts and pre-paid gift cards I paid about $59 per tire, shipped. (discount tire direct). The tires arrived within 3 days of order, 2014 dot stamps and full of ID stickers and labels. Their sales guarantee is very comprehensive, so even though a return would require some shipping effort, everything else seems comparable to a local purchase after mounting. I did have to shop around to find a friendly tire guy for mounting & balancing and that expense still kept the cost below any local price with the free mounting included. BTW, I had a clean set of empty rims,(no tires on), and got the mechanic to mount, hi-speed spin balance and new valves for the full set for $40 cash, not put on car. He was actually happy to do a clean, easy tire job and had them done in about 20 min. He was also shocked at the "no brainier" price.

Very cool, I remember that NOW, as an ol-school street racer, that was a trick the pro stock boys were doing. thanks for "jarring" my memory. Time for new plugs, just the past few days I am getting some of that " bogging" on my 04 Fox X, mostly in 1st & 2nd unless I keep the rpm's up and accelerate harder than usual. I'm gonna try the V grooves. THANKS agin!

Likes: The Spartan approach to vehicle design, but most of my Baru's were pre 90, liked my 2 early 80's 4wd GLW series. Rugged, reliable and practically trouble free under 200K. Took me a while getting accustomed to going so slow. Liked my new 1990> AWD Legacy wagon but I haven't driven anything newer than my 2 current used 04 Foresters. like being able to fix most of the issues listed below for cheap. REALLY LIKE knowing when you buy a solid used Subaru it will outlast most new,(similarly capable), cars and do so for far less money! L Dislikes, Mostly minor pet peevy stuff: No lights in my glove boxes...really? agree on the cup holder, especially the rear seat ones. Sun visors way too short,(length wise, Foz only?), especially when used on sides...really? The wind noise from the window gussets, should have been fixed after the first two years. The leaky cold weather fuel lines. Some of the big issues bug me too, head gaskets, etal=Mfg. stubbornness on lingering issues, probably know we're going to fix them ourselves. But overall, there really aren't any vehicles that can do what a Subaru can and do it as long and economically.

Congrats on your save and thinking out the problem. I had a similar experience at my in-laws driveway. Someone drove the 90 Legacy wgn. into a ditch, the right rear wheel was off the ground and the frame was hanging the edge, no traction. I put that special someone in the drivers seat and I stood on the farthest part of the right/ rear as I could get. Loaded a few in laws in the cargo bay and when both rear wheels had good contact we backed it out like it was on solid ground. I was amazed, but it made me look pretty smart....and that's no mean feat