jonpaul03
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I am about to have major surgery on my spine and was tossing around the idea of selling my BRAT that I have been piddlin around with all these years. It has been garage kept for its life with me and I want to find a good home for it.
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I have a brat with the hand rails installed!
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Links or pictures of your Weber conversions are greatly appreciated too!
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I am looking for a good way to hook up the vacuum lines in my BRAT after the Weber conversion.
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My float valve was stuck and timing is off. I can get it to run with throttle applied, but it still wont idle.
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I also have a 1978 gen 1 brat
owned since it was new in 1978
and have enjoyed it thru the years, it's bullet proof.
the issue you are having with the starting seems the be part and parcel of the weber carb design
I started having the problem when I replaced the orginal Hitachi carb (tended to develop vacumn leaks.
Replaced it with the same carb you have i still have the elect chock on it though.
Had to finally get it adjusted but a mech who has the old emissions testing (tail pipe)equip.
Runs great since then, except when I let it sit too long and it's cold.
Then I have to use eather and spray the carb to get it to start.
As long as I do not let it set for more than 2-3 weeks it starts right up in the morning.
I also have recently added an AC system (needed here in Tucson)
I have had wiring issues since installing it but getting it worked out.
Had you made sure that you do not have some of the orginal brat wiring connectors hooked up (do need /want) the wire for the anti dieseling switch tied to anything And hopefully you have the vacumn line fittings that are not needed with the Weber carb sealed off.
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Thanks for the advice! I have had her running perfectly (900 rpm idle), but she didnt want to run after the accelerator pump and the EGR tube failed. I got her running now, but I still need to set the timing. I cant adjust the carb until I can get her to idle on her own. I get popping in the carb right now....kills the rpms.
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Got her running....anyone with a Weber 32/36....what did your mixture and throttle adjustments end up at?
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Has anyone eliminated the Vapor Separators on each side of the fuel tank or bypassed them at all? not sure, but could be the reason for my NOT starting/running issue I currently have. I am running out of options. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
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So..... I have continuity between all associated components and I still do not get power to my fuel pump. I have replaced the Voltage Regulator and pump itself. The generator tested good and I replaced the points/condenser. Battery is good and all fuses replaced as well. I currently have 2 pumps hooked up to test different grounds and still nothing. I bypassed the fuel tank and ran the fuel line to a gas can....still nothing. Any ideas?????? Has anyone ever seen a resistor block go bad? It is the only thing within the circuit I havent tested or replaced.
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Pump works fine when directly connected to the battery. I have continuity b/w the pump and the VR. The alternator tested good at Autozone. I havent been able to check the power going to the pump with cranking the engine. I have bypassed the tank with fuel cans.......and still same result. The pump isnt pumping. Is there a fusable link or something I should check? From what I have read the pump gets its power from the VR....and the VR gets its power directly from the Alternator. Not sure what the issue is.
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So..... I have continuity between all associated components and I still do not get power to my fuel pump. I have replaced the Voltage Regulator and pump itself. The generator tested good and I replaced the points/condenser. Battery is good and all fuses replaced as well. I currently have 2 pumps hooked up to test different grounds and still nothing. I bypassed the fuel tank and ran the fuel line to a gas can....still nothing. Any ideas??????
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Thank you! These diagrams are helpful, but I'm not sure how beneficial they will be for the issue I am having. My 78' ran perfectly before the EGR tube and accelerator pump went bad. I replaced both and now she wont run unless choke fully engaged. So...I did a master rebuild on the carb, replaced fuel pump and lines, checked vacuum lines, and flushed the tank. Still wont run without choke fully engaged. (Thats after getting it to start with pouring fuel into the carb)
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Thank you! Now if only I can get it to run again.... The dashmat came with the BRAT when I purchased it. I am not sure where it originally came from.
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Hopefully someone responds to this..... Has anyone eliminated the reserve tank and overflow limiter located on the right side/bed of their BRAT? IDK why it is necessary. And.....I have completed a master rebuild on the carb x2, replaced fuel lines, checked under the hood vacuum, replaced plugs, and replaced the fuel pump....still wont run.
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I need a sanity check!!! Testing a fuel pump by direct connecting it to the battery (with it still hooked up to the fuel lines) should still pump right? I have tested many unhooked this way, but never while installed. Mine clicks once and doesnt pump....clicks again after a few seconds, and then will click again when applied to the battery. It will not do anything between clicks while touching the leads to the battery... Am I going insane, or should it just pump when I apply the leads to the battery????
