Syonyk

*scratches head* On Windows? There's some stuff that would work... can't remember what it's called, though. Could you send it to someone who can do a good job compressing it? *volunteers* Video compression is as much art as science. -=Russ=-

I can host a torrent for it, if you're interested in using BitTorrent to spread the file (that would be the easiest way to get a 700+ meg file scattered). I have a tracker, and I can create the .torrent & seed it. I can host the file, if needed, but 700+ meg is a lot of data to be hosting. How many downloads do you expect? Also, what is the data? 700 meg is a full 2 hour movie, when encoded with a good codec. Is this something that could be compressed significantly if needed? -=Russ=-

I had a conversation with a friend last night, and was talking about wanting a clean GL-10 Turbowagon. He asked why I don't just get a newer Subaru, like a Legacy GT or an Outback. Thinking about it, there are a few reasons I prefer the old gens. 1. I like the styling. The newer Subaru styling is cool, but I really have a thing for the late 80s angular styling. 2. Less junk between me and the road. AWD is nice, but I just don't like ABS/traction control/etc, and a center differential is another thing that I really don't have control over. I don't think it's a huge issue, but I know exactly where power is going with the D/R tranny. 3. Ease of maintenance. New gens aren't that bad, but... man. The EA82 is trivial to work on. 4. Fewer old gens around. In Iowa City, at least, there are a TON of new gen Subarus, and about 50% of them have "Look at me, I'm LIBERAL!" bumper stickers of some sort. I've only seen 2 or 3 other old gens around. 5. Community support. USMB is great. I'm sure there's good support for new gens as well, but it seems like almost all the old gen guys do their own wrenching. 6. They're CHEAP! $1000 gets you a nice old gen, $2000 or so gets you a *mint* old gen. And parts are quite inexpensive too. So, why do *you* like the old gens? -=Russ=-

Aaaand... Presto! http://wombat.sevarg.net/Subaru/HTKYSA.PDF Enjoy. Don't beat my server up too badly. -=Russ=-

I'll get it hosted on my web server here ASAP. People can snag it from that. -=Russ=-

Yes, can can gravity bleed it, but you want to make sure you have someone topping off the brake fluid - going dry in the master cylinder sucks, you need to totally redo the entire system. IIRC, gravity bleeding is useful for when the entire system is dry, you let it fill most of the way up. I'd still follow with a normal bleed, though. -=Russ=-

Congrats! Always good when people don't realize what they have, and it gets sold for next to nothing to someone who knows what it is and will take care of it. -=Russ=-

Flip the switch on the top of the steering column. -=Russ=-

You haven't seen the pictures of this car. It was perfect. There's a thread a few pages back with pictures. Is there any chance of getting a "classic car" valuation of it, or something from someone who deals with non-standard cars? This wasn't just any beat up Subaru. -=Russ=-

No. I don't. ... Just a winter beater, lifted offroader, really nice summer car with A/C, and a few parts cars. Oh, yea, and the loaner (with an automatic, can't trust everyone with my gearboxes), and maybe the project car (350WHP, '87 wagon body... that'd be fun). -=Russ=-

I haven't tried. I don't have anything with difficult-to-change plugs... the Subaru is trivial, the RX-7 isn't much harder, and the motorcycle is again trivial. Getting the torque on the socket would be a trick, though. There's not a lot of mass to throw at it. -=Russ=-

What wattage are the headlights pulling? If they're uber-mega-photon-blasters, they could be drawing a lot. Also, make sure the connections for the fuse are clean. Corrosion on a contact will cause resistance, which will make heat with current flow. -=Russ=-

Haven't owned a ferret lately, have you? They fit anywhere they want. -=Russ=-

Depends on the Haltech. The E6s are less expensive, E8s aren't too bad, but the E11s & such are pretty pricey. Regardless, minimum for a Haltech in decent shape seems to be around the $800 mark (or will be by the time you add all the appropriate sensors), and I'd be willing to bet a good chunk of people here have less than that, total, in their cars. -=Russ=-

Either the hill holder, or the pushrod adjustment. I haven't actually pulled the master cylinder off my Subaru to see, but if it's the same as pretty much every other car on the planet, there's an adjustable pushrod on the end of the master cylinder. If the brakes are dragging, you need to screw it down a bit so it's not sticking out as far. -=Russ=-

I think the biggest reason you don't see much Haltech use, at least in the old gen forum, is that a Haltech is more expensive than most people's entire car. -=Russ=-

I'm sorry, ignore me. I somehow thought this was related to the rear brakes. For the front brakes, the piston does screw in. -=Russ=-

The '87 GL should have something vaguely resembling an automatic slack adjuster in the back. If it's anything like mine was, the three pieces are bonded together with enough junk to make them look like one part with a rivet in it. It should be three pieces, and they should move freely. You'll need to free them up to be able to adjust them to the minimum clearance. -=Russ=-

My trick for getting out of 4WD if it's a bit bound up is just to hit the brakes hard enough to cause some slip. It frees things right up. I see no problems with shifting between 4Lo & 4Hi on the fly - as said above, it's just like shifting between other gears. The front & rear stay locked, and an additional reduction gets dropped in. I don't *usually* shift between 4Hi & 4Lo on the fly though, because I use 4Lo for "Ah, crap, I guess I *am* stuck." -=Russ=-

The plug wires have about 10k miles on them - they should be fine. I'm going to screw with it when I get home, and see if there's any play in the shaft. It sounds like getting a spare disty would be a Good Idea, before it starts getting cold/snowy again (a motorcycle & RX-7 don't exactly make good snow cars). -=Russ=-

I *just* got a new alternator under a month and a half ago. Now, onto the more practical issues: The stumbling, I have no doubt, was due to the wet distributor cap. The jumping tach may have been unrelated, but if I can get the distributor cap issue cleared up, will the jumping tach cause any problems, or is that something I can drive with for a while until I get around to replacing the distributor, if it is at fault? Basically, should I look for spare parts to keep in the back now, or do I have a while? I haul across the midwest with alarming regularity in this car, and it's my only snow-capable vehicle, so if it's something that could fail completely at any moment & strand me, I'll get replacement parts now. -=Russ=-

Understandable, I often post parts I have for sale if there's a related thread. It's rather helpful IMHO. I may take you up on that. I'll see how it behaves tomorrow, but I think that it might be time to swap out the disty, coil, and put a new cap/rotor on, and keep the spares in the back. -=Russ=-

Ah... crap. A bunch of searching on jumping tach stuff, and it looks like I may have a bad distributor in addition to the issues with the cap. Is there any chance a failing distributor could somehow let moisture into the cap? Maybe from the crankcase or such? -=Russ=-

Well, my ignition system has been driving me nuts lately, and I'm pretty sure it's just the damn distributor cap causing all my problems. The distributor cap seems to keep getting water in it. The first time was from half an hour sliding sideways through 8" of snow, the second time was kind of random, and it's happened a few more times. Tonight I took it out with a few other people, and after about 15 minutes I started to get ignition breakup, and the tach was jumping around. I pulled off to a gas station, dried it out, and managed to pull the center button out. I wedged it back in, and things started & ran, but the tach was still jumping around. After another 5 minutes, it smoothed out & behaved. The odd thing was that while the tach was jumping around, it spent a significant amount of time at near twice the indicated RPM. It was hovering around 6.5k RPM indicated while I was doing 65mph in 5th gear. When the ignition stopped glitching, it dropped right back down to the proper 3000 RPM. So, I guess my questions are: 1. Can a wet distributor cap cause the tach to jump around like this, and read twice the correct RPM? 2. How the FSCK do I keep the inside of the cap dry? I'm giving up on cheap aftermarket stuff & going with OEM Subaru parts, but I'm getting annoyed at having to spend time fighting with it. 3. Is there any reason to suspect other ignition system parts (coil, sensors, etc) of having issues, or is this all explainable by the cap? -=Russ=-

Conversely, a pump for a carb'd vehicle will start, but not run, a fuel injected wagon. Experience speaking there. :-/ -=Russ=-