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Nope on all three, you need something that is a 4x140 bolt pattern. 4x100 wont work Your pretty much limited to subaru wheels, Peugeot, redrilling your hubs to fit 6 lugs, or buy an adapter plate for the 5 lug swap

You could also possibly grind of the excess metal, grab a large nail, or something along those lines and use a palm nailer on it to force it out.... just thinking what id do for a nuclear option, havent had to do this myself but it could work. Also on the axels, there should be a slight bevel on one side, but not the other, ive found that if you press them out from the flush sude, and put them in from the beveled side it makes life easier

Maybe some heat and pb blaster to help it come out?

Bump Any other suggestions that might be closer than Portland?

That sounds like a good deal. May have to make a road trip

Yeah, Explained to them what I was doing, but they still wouldnt do it. The offroad shops around here can only do drivelines up to 39 inches or so.

So I took my drivline in to have it extended for my 5 speed swap... driveline shop wont do it, due to being a liability to lengthen it to 51 inches at the current diameter. He said the only way he could do it would be to increase the diameter, and rebuild bushings ect ect. Quoted me $400-$500 to have it done....... anyone in have suggestions of other driveline shops that will do this work? Im in snohomish wa, but seattle are or mt vernon area is doable

Ok, thats the answer ive veen looking for! So not knowing much about flywheels or maching, what part of the flywheel exactly do i need machined down? Or what do i need to tell the machine shop to do when i take it in?

So if im using the larger ea81 flywheel i dont need to have it machined then?

Yup, finishing pulling parts, then ill be sending you my stuff for the kit.

Right, but im going to be using the ea 81 flywheel, not the ea 82 flywheel

So Im swapping my brat over from a 4 speed to a 5 speed tranny, ive been rumageing through all the threads on here, and thats helped a ton, but i still have a few questions, and considering most of the threads are 5-10 years old, hopeing to get some more up to date data. Im planning on using the ea81 flywheel with the new transmission, rather than grinding down the corners of the bell housing. Ive read some threads that say to have it machined down to .815 and some threads say no machineing necessary. Do i need to get the flywheel machined or not? If so, exactly what part of the flywheel do i need to have machined down? The inner metal surface where it meets the clutch? My second question is what clutch setup works best? Ive heard that I can use the ea83 clutch setup, ive been told to pickup a clutch with 6 springs out of a early legacy, and ive also read that alot of people use xt clutch disk. What are the advantages of one over the other?

So would a 5 speed from a ea82 match up with my ea81, or do i need to find an older wagon with a 5speed to steal it out of?

The tranny on the wagon had a ea82, whereas my brat has a ea81 engine if that helps

Ive been looking at swapping a 5sp dual range tranny into my brat, and Ive noticed that there are trannys in the late 80s wagos wuth dual range, but the shift pattern for the 4wd is opposite from my brat. Are these two different transmissions altogether, or just different 4wd shifter attachments?

Ive come across this black box with a mistibishi emblem on it while trying to track down my voltage issues, what the heck is it, and why are there darn mistibishi parts in my subaru ????

I alrrady did the alternator swap, cause ya the original ones are pretty wimpy. But I grabbed mine from a junkyard, so I probably just need to get a brand new one.

Ah ok... wierd, had it tested before i put it in

Nfg voltage regulator??? Im not familiar with what that means

Looking for help solving my volt reading on my brat. It reads out under 12v on the dash, which is causing the wipers to slow and heater to blow slower. Put a multi meter on both the battery and alternator, noth reading in the high 13s. Double checked grounds, and then did the maxima alternator upgrade. Still pretty much reading out the same, but now im noticing random voltage spikes up to 18v on the dash readout and all the ligts get brighter and everything moves faster for a minute. All the fuss are good. Im thinking maybe voltage regulator, is there something else im forgetting or need to look into? I dont really mind if the dash voltmeter reads incorrectly, so long as it doesnt affect lights, wipers and heater. Any help would be appreciated

The factory bumb stops are still there, didnt see a way to remove them to swap in longer ones, so thats why i was thinking a coil under em

Cant say iver ever used kyb shocks before, ill check em out

Curious what suspension set ups others are running on lifted rigs? I have a 84 brat with a 4 inch lift. It had rancho 5000s in the rear when i bought it, blew them out and went to the adjustable rancho 9000's but those seem to be giving up as well now. Thinking about fabbing a coil under the bump stop. Short of swapping over to a solid axel in the rear what other upgrades or options are there? Anyone else had poor quality out of ranchos?

Wrong axles..... had this happen to me multiple times, if the parts store sells you a turbo axle for a non turbo car or vice versa, the spline count will be slightly off. It will stil go on, but there will be play in it and then.... snap goes the pin.