gjewers

If you pull the heads, be sure to run a true straight edge across them to check for warping...

Not sure if this is cool but I don't see a "for sale" category. Any body interested in a running '88 DL with 270k on it? Located in California. Will give more details if interested. Thanks.

CASTROL 20/50. FRAM FILTERS.

Not sure about parts but as far as "quirks", dropping the axle shouldn't be too big of a deal. After removing bearing retaining nut you may also have to remove strut mount and anything else that would allow the suspension to drop down and make the room necessary to slide out the axle. Usually a drift pin on the trans (inboard) side.

Forget about trying to rebuild them too. It's just about as cheap to replace the entire assembly and a lot less hassle.

Well I'm no genius but me thinks if you shoot a little WD 40 or spray silicon where the roll pin came out of some of it should soak into the splines. Then some tapping and gentle prying ought to do it. Should not be any rust concerns. Probably just a little gunk making it stick. Would be tough to get heat where it is needed but don't think it is needed anyway. Tapping and gentle to semi aggressive prying shouldn't hurt anything. My Daddy would always say: "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"! Them components is pretty tough! It'll loosen up eventually...

Thanks for the tip!

Possibly could also be defective timing belt. Had a belt on my '87 gl for years and swapped it out at the appointed time. The new one was chewed to shreds within 3,000 mi. Replaced that without any major rebuilding and it went for another 50,000 plus... If all the components seem OK, belts are cheap and since it is a non interference motor,to me, would be worth trying new belts vs a major re-do. Especially since you are a diy. Takes me about 4 hrs to do belts these days. Good luck.

Did the first one last for very long? I had a replacement break within 4-6 weeks of installing as well. Was blamed on faulty belt. Never had a similar problem but they have always broken prior to their designated replacement interval. Could be an issue with aftermarket vs. factory parts also. My plastic dist covers were not sealing very well either and belts were subject to dirt/grease/water etc. so that is a factor. Got so I could change a belt in less than 4 hours on the side of the road. Always kept a spare...

Excuse my naivety, but what is an LSD differential?

Another quick question. I've had an '87 and an '88 that were virtually identical other than GL vs DL. Considering an '86. Will an '88 parts car have anything to offer? ie., struts, axle shafts, radiator, other misc components that tend to wear out? Thanks again. gj

277,00 on an '88 gl wagon. Biggest problem was multiple timing belt changes. (and 2 deer hits)

This may be covered elsewhere but have not found it.... Have a chance (if I hurry) to get a nice '86 low mileage GL with a carburetor. Have only had experience with 88/89 fuel injection models. Are carbs reliable? What are the major drawbacks? I keep hearing about switching to webers so is that an easy option if needed? Thanks. gj

86WW, Thanks for the reply. So a 6 lug redrill can be done relatively easy by any machine shop? Is there a thread on here about lifting these older subarus? Thanks.

Was reading a thread about installing larger tires by converting to 5 lug hubs. One suggestion was to drill the existing 4 luggers to 5 lugs. My question is how to go about doing this. Is this a machine shop job or can it be done on the garage bench? How does one keep the hub symetrical? Would like a little more clearance for rocky back roades. Thanks again.