that one kid

I'd never heard of heated LEDs before and that was my issue with them because I live in a very snowy icy place. Budget doesn't really matter, i'm okay paying premium for something that'll keep me safe. 1986 second gen. lovely brumby Bennie and thanks for the tip. I do like the idea of semi sealed but those JW Speakers look wicked

hello all, I want to do something about my headlights. they have all the luminosity of a dying camping flashlight. night driving is a joke. I'd like to get something substantially brighter than the stock lights preferably not LED's. parts numbers and links welcome. thanks

yeah the car originally had a 3.7lsd diff that was sold to a different person. The tranny to my knowledge is an ea82t 5 speed dr with a center locking diff. Im not exactly planning on having a turbo with this brat so is there any use swapping in this tranny? given that its almost 40,000 miles more than my current 4 speed would it just be better to keep looking for a non turbo 5 speed with lower miles?

also got a set of really sweet mag wheels and have started the search for 205/60/13s.the parts came with a single avante optitour that looks super solid.

hey guys just an update. I got to go down to vancouver a couple days ago and grab some rear disks.....and ended up with a 1988 turbo harness, turbo tranny, front crossmember with power steering rack, rear subframe with control arms and such. So I'm Planning on swapping on the brakes pretty soon and was wondering if i would be able to use the rear wheel bearings from the rx in the brat. Im also curious if i can use any other parts from the rx driveline. the shocks are pretty beat to hell but would it be beneficial to use the turbo crossmember? any chance of getting the power steering to work?

managed to find a decent pair at a tire rack not far from here that'll tie me off for the winter. yeah i've been giving a lot of thought to redrilling the hubs for different wheel set ups down the road but i think i'll wait until i can source a rear disk brake set before i start drilling and welding things. that row52 site is awesome I'm probably going to end up spending way to much time on there now though... wheel bearings and pads, a bed liner and general winter readiness is next down the line. thanks for all the help

Hi, been using my brat as a daily driver for a little over a year now and need to get a couple things done to keep it on the road. my main problem at this point is tires, none of the tire shops around the area sell what i need and i was very curious if theres a better way than just combing through craigslist adds for old loyal wheels. The next problem i have is that the rear wheel bearings have a lot of play I've been trying to put it off until i can find parts for a 5 speed and/or disc brake conversion but I dont think thats likely to happen any time soon. brakes pads are also getting pretty worn but i dont think those should be to hard to come by. Any help locating tires and maybe wheels would be very helpful. Any advice on brake pads, wheel bearings, junkyards where i might find any 5 speed, or rear disc brake parts would also be much appreciated

"bucking bronco" exact term I would have used to describe my brat before the weber swap

have the jumpseats installed, and have a new cv ready to take over for the current one. Anybody know a good place to grab a dr 5 speed? haha

my Apologies for the long drawn out wait For sticking it out here are some pics of the brat... more to come when i figure out how to work this mac

Never seen a light up AC switch in my life but it works... and even more surprisingly the air conditioning isn't bad, can't really bring the car to frigid temperatures but its nice for cruising around the gorge.

Oh right hahah sorry the green switch turned out to be for the AC I forgot to mention that on my last post

Updates on the brat. haven't been on usmb in a while been working a lot recently. I currently have the brat running a "new" weber carb and ended up getting a catalytic. I also picked up a set of jump seats that I'll be installed shortly. I've been giving a lot of consideration to doing a rear wheel disk brake conversion if I can find the parts.

I think the main problem I see is that the technology just hasn't developed past a basic level yet. On a chemical level its entirely possible hydrogen has a lot more explosive power than gasoline and requires a lot less to run in a combustion cycle, i actually saw this guy down in California that was running (i think it was an old corolla) on a HHO system but it really didn't seem practical because of how big of an electrolysis chamber was being used and that it took more energy to make the hho fuel than the energy the fuel gave the car. I have seen methods of people trying to solve this problem but dont know enough about the processes to give a suggestion or details..... the links below were at the very least thought provoking i dont know might help you figure somethings out

Alright cool thanks for the advice guys With that being said i'll probably go the route of the weber for now until i can gather the parts and tools needed for a potential fi swap down the road. Is there anything tricky that needs to be dealt with in the EGR delete or is it pretty strait forward? and is there any kind of weber swap guide around on here the hitches removals pretty strait forward but what will need to be done to convert the car to a weber? Thanks again for all the info its been really helpful Alex

So it's been kind of an on going problem for a while, every time i start the car it idles really rough unless i pump the accelerator pedal a few times before hand, and when I restart the car hot if i run into a store or go to the gas station or something like that, the car lurches furiously unless i completely floor it. I've already had the carb rebuilt back in january and have only run the car on premium non ethanol fuel at the suggestion of the mechanic because the ethanol fuel breaks down the seals inside the carb. I recently spoke with a different mechanic in the area who was supposed to be the man to go to for older model subarus and he really wasn't that open to try and help, just gave me a price on what he thought it could be and mentioned that he was sick of having to deal with these old cars....... which was incredibly disheartening I know that problems like this are fairly common with older subes, in particular hitachi carburetors and I have done a decent amount of research; much thanks to the usmb, about alternatives including a weber swap and the spfi conversion. My questions are as follows: what are the pros and cons of a weber swap and what kind of performance can be expected on the highway if i go this way, fuel consumption, power and acceleration etc? and would it be better to just go the route of the spfi set up? I'm also fairly new to mechanics everything i know i've learned from a haynes manual which has been really helpful for the basics but it kind of leaves me dead in the water when i come across problems that aren't mentioned in the book. I've gotten close to a thousand different suggestions from various people about what i should do and what might be wrong with it including guesses about the carb, disty, head gaskets, fuel lines, fuel filter and so on. I would really like to get an opinion from someone who knows what they're doing and maybe even come check it out in person and in the event that i do decide to go the route of the spfi would anybody be interested in helping me with the conversion? thanks, Alex

Ground-control sleeves: mounted on the miata shock in my wagon: Numbchux,can this set up be adapted to work with a brat and what would need to be done to make it work thanks

thanks again for the info thankfully i managed to get the lock back to a working order for now until i can order a new assembly. Do you know much about the parts on the subaru website it doesn't really give a whole lot of info and i was wondering if you had ever ordered one of those parts or what i can expect to receive... like would it be the complete assembly with bearings and a key or would it just be the main housing and ignition barrel?

sweet i guess then that'll be my little project for tomorrow. do you know any good sights where i can get a lock assembly? I've been looking around and mostly all of the internet auto parts stores either don't carry it or the parts out of stock the only place i've managed to find one is on ebay and its like 50 bucks more.. just curious if you knew a sight thanks again for the info you probably just saved me quite a bit of time and money (smiley face)

I managed to get the column to unlocked today. Once the steering wheel cover is removed theres a bolt holding the steering wheel to the column i know that i need to have the steering wheel in the same position for reinstallment but my haynes manual suggests a specific torque for the bolt. how important is it that the bolt is the right tightness or does it just need to be tight enough to hold the wheel in the right position?

Thanks for the info guys really helps a lot. It doesn't feel as if the assembly is worn though i could be wrong.. but it feels like a misalignment more than anything once the car is unlocked it clicks through the ACC, ON, START positions just fine it appears to me that its just the inner locking mechanisms that is worn or misaligned (if that is possible). Would the assembly still need to be replaced? or might it just be the inner lock barrel thats the problem? Thankfully i reckon i might get lucky and fiddle with it until it comes unlocked again so there shouldn't be any need to cut the lock housing apart. If and when i get the column to unlock does the key have to be in a specific position to slide off, I'm assuming i don't have to have it in the start position which would leave the ON and ACC thanks again

I've been having a lot of trouble with the ignition/ key barrel on my 86 brat usually it is just really touchy and picky about the position of the key and if i get it wrong i spend 10minutes to half an hour fiddling with it to get unlocked. last week i almost go stranded because the barrel would just not unlock and i had to hold the steering wheel left to take pressure off the barrel and crank the key hard to the point where it almost broke in the ignition to get it unlocked...........thankfully i got it home but now its locked completely. I need a solution should I get a locksmith to come down and see what they can do or remove the barrel and just bring it to one to see if they can fix or rework it ? Would it be better to go to a scrap yard and find a new barrel and key and reinstall it myself? How hard is it to remove the lock barrel and how would i do so? any help would be great thanks oh and i guess if its not hard to install a "new" one is there anybody one here (preferably in the area) that would be willing to give me one or sell?

If you can't find a buyer let me know id be willing to take them off your hands and might be able to give you some cash. bend isn't to far and id be willing to come pick them up but i've got a lot of stuff happening in the next couple months including a move and such hope you can find a buyer before hand thanks

good eyes i didn't catch that i kinda just assumed it was shinier at the front for some reason haha