pontoontodd

You mean the one with the snapring on it? I can see it but I can't see any of the balls or anything to tell if it's failed. Also in these pictures you can see the high/low cable shift in place.

In the process of getting at the trans I took out the propshaft. Looks like it might have been rubbing a little, but who knows when. Might have been rubbing on the little bracket that bolts to the trans tunnel that holds the shifter brace/pivot so I hammered that up a little. Judging by how much rubbing and scraping I've heard, I think it would look a lot worse if had been the propshaft. This is after I cleaned up the middle. I cleaned up the whole thing and painted it so I can tell if it rubs again. Most of the Subaru trans experts I talked to suggested the noise was probably coming from the rear transfer gears, bearings, or center diff bearing. I took the back of the transmission apart. Didn't see any bearings noticeably sloppy or discolored. I did notice this one has tapered roller bearings for the upper rear shaft and a bolt on bearing for the lower rear shaft. The original trans in this car had normal ball bearings for all three. I probably should have listened to jf1sf5 and played with diff bearing adjustment first. All drive subaroo also said that was the most likely cause of the noise. So that will probably be next.

The one on the rear transfer gears? Or the one on the end of the input shaft? I'm working on taking the tailhousing off. Several people have suggested the rear transfer gears / bearings / rear center diff bearing are most likely to be causing the noise, and I figure I have to pull most of the same parts out of the way to check that in the car, if it's not obviously something back there, the whole trans will come back out.

Took the Outback to our friend's place and gave him a ride in the woods with the low range. We were both impressed with what it could do. You can creep up pretty steep obstacles at a walking pace. Then I got it high centered, partially because I was trying to go as slow as possible so I had no momentum. Fortunately with the electric jacks and recovery ramps we got off quickly and easily. I got some video but it's probably not very good. By the time I'd gotten out to his place (before offroading) the car was making some intermittent scraping noises, kind of like a brake dust shield rubbing or a dried out worn ball bearing. Definitely load and vehicle speed dependent, mainly makes noise when engine braking or coasting down. Sometimes it will make noise for a minute and then go quiet for a minute. He thought it was something out at the passenger front wheel. He noticed the RF IB CV boot was torn so I replaced that when I got home but didn't see anything out at the wheel rubbing or scraping. By the time I got home it was making some noise even in neutral when the car was stopped. I crawled under and the noise was definitely coming from the trans, not sure if from inside or the throwout bearing. When it does this and you push in the clutch the noise goes away. My wife and I went to central Illinois to go camping this weekend. Weather forecast turned out to be accurate and they had nice weather and it rained at home. Took the kayaks with us and had a good time. The relevant part of this story is that the trans continued to make the scraping noise intermittently, but never when under load, for the ~400 mile trip. The only other noise I noticed was a few times when we got back into town accelerating from a stop it would make a squealing noise, usually in second, kind of like when you first start up some cars and the belts squeal. This trans does have more overdrive than the stock Outback trans, which is nice, drops RPMs to about 3500 at 80mph in fifth. It can still accelerate up a grade into a headwind with the kayaks on the roof so it's not too much overdrive. If anybody else has transmission noise ideas I'd like to hear them.

Boy would I be happy with the backside of the gears being dirty and just needing to be run. Sounds like a good explanation!

Any idea what in the transmission would cause a gravelly noise while engine braking or coasting down?

You can get tires shaved, used to be a common thing for "stock" road racing classes. You could try to find a used tire with the same diameter as your worn tires. Since even the same brand, model, and size of tire can vary in size, that will be tough since you'd have to measure them inflated. One thing I've done a couple times is just to replace two tires, either diagonal or both on left or right side of car. Center diff is by far the most likely to go out.

Thanks for the heads up, I'm following them now. I'd like to see them really put that long travel car they built through its paces. If the 4.444 is that hard to get, I'd just stick with the 3.90 I guess. Hadn't really looked into it or asked around much yet, that's a ways off, just saw that it was offered in Japan. Also don't really have the patience or experience to set up spiral bevel gears. If they're not available, I did think about making a shorter first and probably second. I think in the 6MT the gear on the input shaft could be smaller. The one on the 5MT is already about as small as it can get.

I will try to use the low range as little as possible and try to go easy on it when I do. As you may have noticed, I'm not real big on driving slow. Considering I've already broken two transmissions and a rear diff, 60% more torque into the gears is scary. I dunno about the DCCD in this car. My medium term plan is to get a lower mileage H6 Outback for my wife and start modifying the 2002 OB H6 we have for off road use. No cage or fuel cell but definitely shocks and skidplates. Might have to put a 4.44 6MT with DCCD and R180 in that eventually.

When I pulled the drain plug out of the old trans, there was a gear tooth stuck to the magnet. I'm guessing that's related to the noise in first gear. Also the trans mount had sheared apart. Not a big deal, it's super soft anyways and the design keeps everything in place even though the rubber isn't attaching both halves. Had another one off another trans we put in (top). The whole engine and trans are pushed back in the car maybe 1/2", probably why this one eventually ripped apart. I got a control cable, clevis, and knob from McMaster. Had to drill out the hole in the clevis and my friend made a bracket for the cable on the trans. We thought it would be best to attach that end of the cable sheath to the trans so it didn't shift when the engine and trans move around. While he was doing that I replaced the radio. Old dirty broken trans vs clean functional dual range trans. I made a slotted hole next to the shifter for the other end of the cable to go through. We were limited on options by the length and stiffness of the cable but this worked out well. Seems to work as you'd expect, shifts smooth but positive. High/low has synchros so you can shift at speed. You can go really slow in low first with the six cylinder, like 500-700 RPM and it seems like you're barely moving. Second gear in low is basically the same as first gear in high. I'll probably test it out in the woods soon but I can tell it will be invaluable in certain situations.

Picture of my Impreza loaded up with an EJ25 and engine crane before we put it in my friend's Forester. This is the only way I could think of to remove the pin that holds the reverse idler shaft in place. Surrounded it with rags to prevent weld spatter from getting in the trans and welded the end of an old bolt to it. Then it pulled out easily. Obviously I cut that off and ground it flush when reassembling the trans. These pins seem like a semi posterior way of holding the shafts, I hope I got them lined up with the holes in the bearings but it was hard to tell. I turned up a brass spacer, seems like it should be about .800" ID x 1.56" OD x .25" thick. Made reverse gears line up much better. Could have made it out of aluminum. Thanks to ivans imports for this tip. Next step was to test assemble. Put everything in the left housing and bolted the input flange, pinion shaft flange, and center diff housing on. This made it clear there was some preload on the input shaft, which may have been what caused the death of the brass synchro ring and coloration of the needle bearing. I had looked for shims this size with no luck. I wound up using some ~1mm thick 8mm fender washers and cutting the edges so they sat flat. Then everything spun freely. I've got it all together now. Shifts through all the gears and hi/lo and turns freely. A couple of the bolts holding the center diff housing on are questionable, but other than that it seems good. Plan is to put it in on Saturday. Sometime after the V2R I noticed grease around the LR CV joint on the knuckle, probably coming from the wheel bearings. Hasn't been making noise but it was slightly loose. Planning on going on a long vacation with the car so figured I should replace that to be safe. I think when I put the rear wheel bearings in this summer I packed the area between the bearings and seals with grease, I'm thinking that blew out when they got hot during the V2R. So I took it apart. I am not sure if the spring on the outer seal broke before or during disassembly, but there's definitely grease all over the knuckle and hub. Also there's not really any grease around the rollers. Not sure if that's because they pushed it out or from getting hot, or not being packed properly. This time I put a little more grease in the middle of the bearing than they came with but didn't really put any between the bearing and seals.

You're probably right, I guess we'll find out. I think the rear is pretty well tied into the cage. The front could use a few more tubes, at a minimum that would require taking the dash out again and probably moving around some wiring and HVAC, none of which I can see happening. Planning on seam welding the other side when I get time. Really that V2R was just a lot harder on the car than anything else we've done. Half the suspension bolts were loose, body splitting apart, radio went bad, etc in just 150 miles. Not planning on doing that again, maybe a Texas race, but those seem much easier on the car. I think if we stick to trail riding it should last a while. I'm also looking forward to seeing what it can do with the dual range. We put the engine we just assembled in my friend's Forester and hooked everything up. Went pretty quick and easy. On the downside that means we've done a bunch of Subaru engine swaps now. His ECU seems to be dead, it was underwater for a while, he's going to get another one and see if he can get it running.

Thanks, All Drive Subaroo in Australia is shipping me a synchro ring and needle bearing. Hopefully it will be here in the next couple days and we'll put the trans in next weekend.

Some more gear pictures and questions. Guy I got the trans from showed me a picture on offroadingsubarus.com of an additional hole drilled in the input bearing sleeve. I don't see how it would do anything. In this picture you can see the hole between the bearings of the input shaft support. This picture shows how the ring gear would sling oil up onto a shelf and into a slot that aligns with that hole. On the left end of this picture you can see the pin that I assume holds the reverse idler shaft in. Does anyone know how to remove that? Then I assume the oil also goes in this hole to lube the needle bearing supporting the other half of the input shaft. Here you can see shifted all the way into reverse the idler gear is only about half in mesh with the gear on the shaft. If I can get that apart I'll make a spacer to get those gears to line up better. My old trans had a good snapring for the bearing behind fifth gear. It also had a good C plate but it has a different number stamped on it than this one. They do measure less than .010" difference in thickness. I see the dealer sells two different plates, I'm tempted to just order them both and use the one that matches the one that was in this trans. Other than that the main thing I need is that brass synchro / baulk ring for the low range. If anyone knows where to get one I'd love to hear it. Otherwise it looks like this one could be deburred and made to work for a while, but it's pretty beat.

I saw these in a magazine and thought it might be something worth trying to do on the Subarus: https://pacomotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170531_085400.jpg https://pacomotorsports.com/product/strong-arms/ The driver's side front corner light has just been electrical taped on since the V2R. Went to the local you pull it yard and they only had Outbacks / Legacies with one piece headlight/corner lights so I got a pair. I think the 95/96 had the one piece lights, in 97 they went to two piece, no idea why. As you can see the little tab that holds the corner light on breaks off anytime you hit the light very hard. I did find some over the weekend to replace this one. Eventually I'll put in the one piece headlights. The adjusters look better, they have levels, should be more robust, but they take a different headlight bulb. I can get HID bulbs that should plug in to fit them. My friend brought the heads and intake from his Forester EJ25 and we put them on the bottom end from my Outback's EJ25. Went fairly smooth, he had left a couple parts at home but it's mostly ready to put in his car, maybe we'll do that next weekend. The trans in the 99 Outback started making a clicking noise in first gear a couple weeks ago. I was hoping it was just a CV axle but only happens in first gear at any amount of throttle, no noise in other gears. Ran it on my friend's lift and he thought it sounded like a countershaft bearing. So that's been parked for a while. On the plus side, hopefully, I got a dual range trans with the right final drive ratio from another USMB user. He said it needed a baulk (brass synchro) ring so we took it apart. Also looks like that bearing inside the input shaft got toasty. I'm guessing the input shaft needs to be shimmed out. I contacted All Drive Subaru in Australia, it sounds like they might have some parts I need. Plate that goes behind fifth gear on the top shaft looks bent, and the snapring behind it should be replaced. Other than that the trans looks mint, synchro teeth look new. Of course just about any parts look mint compared to the stuff that's been on our cars any length of time. Anxious to see what the car will do with a low range. If anyone knows where I can get any of these parts, please let me know.

I would start with replacing the brake switch. Is it possible when you plug the connector in it's pulling on the wire and grounding/rubbing somewhere?

There are some small bulbs with leads on them that you might be able to plug in, I think some of them are size 97. The outside of a 1057 is the ground, but it doesn't matter for an incandescent bulb. If you had a bulb holder with the wires you could strip the ends of the wires and shove them in place of the fuse. I like the idea of unplugging the brake pedal switch and seeing if the fuse still blows, that would help narrow down the problem.

If the switch is working properly, it's open when the car is sitting there, so even if you had an intermittent short to ground after the switch it wouldn't blow the fuse when the car is parked. You can always use crimp splices, pull real hard when you're done to make sure it's a good connection.

hahhahaha you can probably just pull that wire from the back of the fusebox with a pliers, but I wouldn't recommend it! There might be a tab of some kind holding the wire in, if you can figure that out and pull the wire out easily, great. Otherwise you will probably have to cut and splice. Do you have a voltmeter? The wire that has continuity to ground probably goes to the brake lights. If the car just has the two bulbs for the brake lights, you could remove them and see if there is still continuity. More of a hassle if you have a half dozen bulbs for the CHMSL (center brake light). The other wire should have 12VDC compared to ground. You could remove the fuse and make sure it has 0V. Most likely this wire is grounding somewhere between the switch and the fuse, I assume it's what you're going to replace. If you can follow it, I'd see if I could find a spot where the insulation is worn through since there are probably other wires that have or will have the same issue. Might as well double check that the switch is working with your continuity tester while you're there.

We got a lot done yesterday. Main focus was putting the body back in place and welding it. Here are a couple more pictures of the damage: We bolted a big piece of tube to the front of the strut tower and a piece of angle to the fender rail and welded them together. Using a couple of big ratchet straps we were able to mostly pull the body back in place. The last bit of adjustment was jacking up the corner of the bumper to bring that corner back up, then things were lined back up almost perfectly. We also noticed the "frame rail" section of the body was buckled behind the crossmember and the control arms have been a pain to install for a while since the mounts seem too close together. So I welded a couple pieces of tube on the body and crossmember and spread them out with a bottle jack. Then I fully welded the seams that had split. You can see where the spot welds were on this seam, I think there were only four or six for a two foot long seam. I did a little more welding than this after taking the pictures and hit the welds with some spray paint. Hopefully it's better than stock. It's certainly much better than what we just drove 2000 miles back home on. My friend took out the harnesses and race radio and put the CB back in. The stereo makes some weird sounds when you turn it on and the buttons don't seem to respond, so that probably needs to be replaced. We made sure the pencil beam HIDs on the roof rack still worked and took that off. The big conundrum remaining is the wiring. The fusible link probably first blew when the blower motor had rocks in it. It did blow again on the way home without the blower motor wired to it. I think it only runs the brake lights and dome light. Replaced the fusible link and plugged the blower motor back into the stock wiring yesterday. Now the dome light, brake lights, and blower motor all work, even all at the same time, and fusible link didn't smoke. Time will tell how long that lasts. Anyone know what else is wired to the fusible link or what else might cause it to blow? The other electrical issue we had on the way back from Nevada was that the gauge lights weren't working. Seems to just be a blown fuse, replaced that and they work now, but again, why did it blow and how long will it last?

Not that it will help much, but you should check from the "power out" side of the fuse holder (fuse removed) to ground. With the pedal up that should have no continuity. If it has continuity, either the brake pedal switch is bad or there is a short between that side of the fuse holder and the brake pedal. The quick and easy solution will probably be to run a new wire from the fuse holder to the brake light switch. Good luck, sounds like it will be a fiasco.

We drove the car out to the Vegas to Reno from Illinois again. Wednesday we got to Vegas about 3 in the afternoon. We put in the harnesses, door bars, lights, etc to get the car ready for tech. After we registered and went through contingency and tech we met with Baja pits. Our plan was to stop every third pit (about every 100 miles) for fuel and switch seats and they would have a tire at those pits that we'd shipped out before the race. We had the afternoon to kill so we checked out the pinball hall of fame. Neither of us is a huge pinball fan, but they had some cool old mechanical arcade games ca 1970. They use blacklights, belts, tilting tables, reflections/projections. As a mechanical engineer that was cool to see. Then we went to the driver's meeting. They warned us about some crazy sounding obstacles on the 540 mile course. There was a supposedly really torn up / soft section of powerline at mile 140-144. At about 170 there was a highway underpass immediately followed by a boulder field that the motorcycle guys would probably have to walk through. The last 20 miles of the course was supposed to be extremely rocky, worse than most years. On the plus side the pit closing times were much more generous than last year and we would only have to average 24mph to finish. That night we had dinner with an off road racer who lives in Vegas we used to race super buggies with in CORR/TORC. He told us if we made it 100 miles that would be a victory. Friday morning we made the two hour drive up to Beatty where the race started. On the way the odometer turned over 230,000. Filled up the car at the gas station and drove to the staging area. Put on our drivers suits, used the port a potties, packed everything securely in the car, and waited to start. We entered Sportsman again. The car fits the 7200 class, which would have allowed us to start at least an hour sooner, but then we'd have 100+ faster vehicles behind us and we'd be ruining their race. Plus the Sportsman entry fee is about 40% of the normal entry fee. So we started in front of about six trucks with 350 ahead of us tearing up the course. My friend started the race. A few of the faster sportsman guys passed us, the push to pass worked well. Less than ten minutes into the race the temp gauge started creeping up, there was a lot of soft ground and some climbs. Turned off the AC and temps were good the rest of the race. Also very early on the HVAC blower motor stopped working. We tried rolling down the windows but then it got even dustier. When we went through the silt sections dust came in the car and took forever to get out since the blower wasn't working, which made it hard to read the GPS. My friend was driving the car hard, it is a race and we wanted to keep up a good pace so it didn't take us 23 hours. Just before the first public road crossing and pit the tire pressure monitor started beeping, the left front was flat. We couldn't find Baja pits in the pit so we put on the spare using the electric jack, which was a big improvement. He drove the next sixty miles or so to pit 3 with no other major problems. The course was rough though, nothing that we doubted we could make it through, but in that first 94 miles to pit 3 maybe 5 miles were smooth. My friend was pretty beat by the time we made it to pit 3, we both just sat down, drank a lot of fluids, and ate some food. Baja pits fueled the car and swapped out our flat spare with a good one. We noticed some of the suspension bolts were loose and the strut tower was starting to split from the rest of the body at the seams. We couldn't think of any realistic way to fix that in the pits. After it cooled off a bit I took the radiator cap off the expansion tank and all sorts of coolant boiled out. We took the bleed plug out of the radiator and filled it back up with water. We sat and talked with Baja pits for a while about what we should do, eventually they convinced me we should go to the next pit 60 miles away and see if the frame got any worse. I am glad we did, that next sixty miles was a lot of fun, maybe 20 miles of it was rough. There were long stretches of 50-80mph running. Even in the rough sections where I thought I was going slow I was going 30. The longest, fastest gravel road we got on I had the gas pedal to the floor for what felt like a couple minutes. There was a guy resting in the shade of his broken trophy truck, he'd probably been there for hours, and when he saw us coming he stood up and cheered for us as we went by. We got that reaction a bunch of times during the race and that was really cool. About halfway down that gravel road was a cattle guard with a two or three foot gentle rise. Hit it about 80mph and got good air off the backside. The six cylinder was definitely an improvement, made it more fun but made it a lot easier in the soft terrain to power through or even just go up the grades without relying entirely on momentum. I also got to go down through a pine forest on a narrow dirt road with a bunch of sharp turns. My friend really got the short end of the stick driving. Near the end of that leg was the dreaded mile 140-144 rough powerline section. Seemed no worse than most of the rest of the course, which made us wonder how bad the other sections would be. We made it to pit 4 at probably an average of 40mph and feeling good until we looked at the body again. It had split considerably more, and what we'd just driven through was not super rough and I was trying to go easy on it in the rough. Just ahead was the boulder field, we weren't sure if we could do that on a good day. It probably would have gotten to the next pit, maybe the next couple pits, but the odds of it lasting another 400 miles on that course seemed very slim. We decided this would be a good place to stop while the car was still intact and head home. We stopped in Tonopah for gas and took 6 to Ely. There were no rooms available there so we drove up to Wendover. Here is the only picture I've taken that shows how big the crack in the body is. Goes almost all the way up and down behind the RF strut tower. In the morning we took the HVAC blower out. There were a few rocks in it, hotwired it to a switch and it worked. Headed back east in the morning on 80 through Utah. At this point we realized the V2R still wasn't over. We were looking for a place to stop and take a little hike to stretch our legs along 80 so we went to the Firehole gorge NRA on the Green river. The whole NRA is crisscrossed with dirt roads and trails so we wound up spending all afternoon driving around there. We did a few things we probably shouldn't have with the car in the condition it was in, but most of the trails were fairly smooth, very smooth by V2R standards. The whole area was beautiful with not many other people on the roads/trails. Saw a lot of elk, some large fish jumping straight up out of the water, and saw a coatimundi crossing the trail right in front of us. I had told my friend about Dinosaur national monument, at that point we weren't too far away so we drove down to Vernal to spend the night. We noticed the brake lights, fog lights, and dome light had stopped working too. Couple pictures at Firehole Gorge: Hill/mountain we tried to climb there: Sunday morning we messed with the wiring a bit, eventually my friend figured out the fusible link was blown. We replaced that and everything but the gauge lights worked. There was a brochure in the hotel about an arch just north of town that you can drive to in an ORV or hike the last part. There was a rough wash crossing about a mile from the arch that we decided would be very hard on the car on the way back so we parked at the car parking area and hiked up. Arch was very cool. Then we drove to the DNM visitor center and saw the quarry building. Not as good as I remembered it but definitely unique. I wanted to go back to Harper's corner trail in the middle of DNM, my wife and I had been on it years ago so we headed that way. We were looking for county road 16 off of 40 and I got us off on some dirt trail headed sort of the right way. A while later we were in a wooded wash with a bunch of trails that just kept getting rougher and weren't really going the way we wanted to go. We headed back towards the highway and found some other dirt roads that eventually got us to 16 and we went up to Harper's corner trail. It was just as dramatic as I remembered it, if not better, one of the best hiking trails I've ever been on. We had been debating driving Echo Park / Yampa bench roads to the southeast part of the park, but weren't sure if we'd want to do it with the Subaru and knew we had to make some progress towards home. While we were on the Harper's trail we could see part of the road that went through the bottom of a canyon and I decided we had to try it. We drove down the “dugway” which was just a bunch of switchbacks on a smooth gravel road. We went into Echo canyon, checked out the cave and river, definitely worth the drive. We went to the other overlooks along the Yampa bench road, they were all amazing, certainly by Illinois standards! I think there were a few slightly soft muddy sections along the road. You could have driven it in a normal street car, but it would be a rough and/or slow ride. We saw a badger running down the road right in front of us and some cows in the road. Stayed the night in Walden, still 1000 miles from home. Arch north of Vernal: Echo Park / Yampa road as seen from Harper's corner in DNM: View from Harper's corner: Echo Canyon: Looking out of whispering cave: Looking back on Yampa road, Haystack rock (I think) in the middle: Monday we got up at 5AM, checked over the car, and went up to 80 for the trip home. We were running later than we'd planned since we'd spent most of Saturday and Sunday trail riding and only progressed about 300 miles east. On the plus side this meant we'd be in a good time and place to see the solar eclipse. When it started we stopped to get gas and put the cameras on the car. I dug out a piece of welding glass so we could look at the sun. Not very dramatic, sky just slowly got darker and then lighter over an hour or two. Could see the headlights on the road but you could see fine without them. It was kind of cool to see the sky dark behind us and light ahead, and then the opposite as the moon moved out of the way. The downside of this is that people from all over the midwest, particularly IA and MN judging by licence plates, had driven to NE to see this, and were then headed back east at the same time we were on 80 and then had to go through Lincoln and Omaha. This caused us a couple hours of delay and I got home just before midnight. My friend drove home from here. I think given a very well prepared car and good drivers, a team could definitely finish the V2R in a Subaru in the time limit. We had just as much fun trail riding the next two days though, and a lot less wear and tear on the car and bank account. We might go to the Texana ranch and try that course, but I think this car's days of Nevada desert racing are over. We have a lot of video from our UP trip, the V2R, and trail riding on the way back. It might be months before I get any of that edited and posted, but it's coming eventually.

We've done some testing and aiming of the various HID lights. One thing that seems strange is that I have 55w HID conversions on the stock headlights, KC 2x3 spot lights under them, and KC 6" daylighters on the roof rack, but they seem to put out different amounts of light and draw different amounts of current. The 6" KCs definitely draw the most power and since they are pencil beams shine the farthest. The high beams and the 2x3s put out a decent amount of light with more spread. With all of them on it is almost like daylight. With all of them on voltage is a little over 12. With all of them and the AC it drops to about 10.6 but everything still works fine. With the high beams, 2x3s, and AC, voltage is also a little over 12. Turning off just the 2x3s (wired into fog light switch) has no effect on the voltage. This is all when RPMs are above 2000RPM, at idle voltage is lower. I don't know if the ECU would normally turn the cooling fans off while running the AC over a certain vehicle speed, but the way I have it hotwired the radiator fans run when the AC is on. I tried the alternator off the original 187k mile donor engine and it is slightly worse if anything. This all seems strange to me, the alternator should be 100amps. I can't imagine the fuel pumps and other little things drawing more than 10 amps. Each pair of HIDs should be 110w, which would be about 9 amps at 12V. Fans supposedly draw about 20 amps each, so that adds up to about 80 amps max. I got a little car travel wifi unit but we still couldn't get the camera to connect to the tablet, so I'm now planning on getting a dashcam. Should be easier to connect but wider viewing angle. Got a fresh set of tires on the car now and shipped a set of four to the pit service. Took the rear seat out so we can fit two spares and all our crap inside. Helmets and driving suits take up a lot of space. Replaced the rear caliper that had frozen up, put new pads on it, and bled it. Brakes seem a little better now. My friend put the race radio back in and put an antenna that's supposedly matched to it on the car. Seemed to work with one of our handheld radios. We're going to have about 23 hours to do 540 miles of the longest desert race in the US, should be fun.

We have the Outback almost ready to go for the Vegas to Reno now. Replaced a bunch of things just to be safe even though they seemed OK. I replaced the fuel pumps. One of them runs dry regularly, basically any time the main tank is 1/4 full or less. Now we've got plenty of spares. I replaced the air filter. It had some sand on it but was otherwise dust and dirt free. Replaced the serpentine belt and drew a diagram of how it's routed on the air filter housing. I finished getting the struts back together and installed. I got some 40A fuses and put one in for the jacks and the rest in the spare fuse / electrical bag. My friend messed with the driver's door window. It hasn't been closing all the way when the door is closed, which is especially a pain with the door bars in and window nets up, you can't easily open the door to run the window all the way up. After some trial and error and consulting the FSM, he got it to close about 99% of the way with the door closed, definitely an improvement. My friend put the light bar on and got all the lights aimed in useful directions. With that on, the car has six 55W HIDs, they light things up pretty well. The 6" KC pencil beam highlighters on the light bar that we converted to HID are amazing. You can easily see the beam of light coming from them while driving. The 2x3 KCs aren't quite as focused, and the stock headlights (now HID) spread the light out even more. I made plastic visors for the tablets and TPMS to try to reduce glare. I replaced the LF inner tie rod, it was slightly sloppy and the V2R will only make it worse. I got a wifi security camera to use as a rear camera to display on one of the tablets. It appears to need to be plugged into an ethernet cable to work, so I'll probably have to get something different. Need to mess with that some more. Still have to get a tire and swap a few tires around and then ship some to the pit service. The RR caliper piston is very tight so I just ordered a new caliper. Still have to put in the race radio and get some number stickers.

Did you drive to Morocco or did you ship the car there? Looks like a blast.