pontoontodd

Sounds like a simple solution, might even just be able to use one of the three bolts already holding it in. Wasn't a problem last weekend.

We need to see pictures and videos of this thing off road. Should be awesome.

Found out a couple days before we left that the course in Texas would be five laps on a 50 mile loop (instead of a 20 mile loop). Still decided to go. We left town Wednesday morning flat towing the Outback with our truck. Somewhere north of Joplin MO we saw a giant shower of sparks and smoke in the mirrors. We pulled over and the Outback was missing the RR wheel. Three of the wheel studs were broken and one of the other two was bent. I assume the lug nuts all came loose somehow, at least two fell off, and the rest were loose enough to eventually snap. The pavement had ground at least a half inch off the bottom of the knuckle. It was cold and dark and we clearly couldn’t move the car until we did something about this problem. At that point I thought we’d have to get the OB towed somewhere and either go home or continue without it. Fortunately I had brought a new rear hub so we knocked the studs out of that and got them in the old hub after taking the brake disc off. We strapped the trailing arm to the knuckle so the bushing wouldn’t fall out the bottom, put a wheel and tire on and continued our trip. For the rest of the trip every time we torqued the lug nuts on that corner they turned some before being tight. We were torquing to 80 ft-lbs and later one of our friends said we should be going to 95 ft-lbs. The next morning we picked up more lug nuts and wheel studs at two parts stores. When we got to the pits at the top of the hill, we could look out and see flat desert for miles. It was clear why the closest town is called Notrees. Fired up the generator and cut a few pieces of steel to weld to the bottom of the knuckle on the OB, pressed the bushing back in, and put a different trailing arm on it. Everyone crapped their pants when they realized we were planning on racing the OB. They thought it was great. They also had no idea what class it would be in. I had figured class 10 (four cylinder water cooled) or heavy metal (stock frame rail truck) but they thought air cooled might be more appropriate speed wise. Before 2PM people started pre running so we got suited up and went out on course. I drove and one of the guys we've raced with navigated for me. With his help I was able to follow the course. About ten miles in the coolant temp started creeping up and eventually got to about halfway between the middle and the top. We pulled over and found out one of the cooling fans wasn’t working. We stuck the windshield washer pump hose in front of the radiator. Then every time it started climbing I would hit the washer pump and it would go back down. They had the course laid out so you went by the pits at mile 17 so we stopped. We figured out one of the pins on the connector for the fan was bad so I spliced a wire around it and then they both seemed to stay on. We went back out and continued the course. The temperature was much more stable but would occasionally rise a bit above the middle of the gauge. Our friend who works on rally cars says when they lose the front bumper cover they will overheat, so he thinks that's our main problem. Around mile 40 something was slipping in the OB drivetrain but we didn’t see or smell any clutch smoke. I pulled over for about five minutes to let it cool but the problem persisted. Had to limp the rest of the course at about ¼ throttle to keep the clutch from slipping. It took us about 2.5 hours in the OB with all the stops and taking it easy at the end. I think it was about 1hr 40 minutes of driving time. The fastest trophy trucks and buggies run about an hour, the slower baja bugs and 1600 cars run about 1 hour thirty minutes. With a non slipping clutch and a little practice we should be able to run 1 hour 30 minute laps. We had no good way to fix the clutch or trans so we just checked over the suspension and focused on our buggy the rest of the weekend. Everything on the suspension looked good, knuckles aren't cracked, no loose bolts, etc, so I was happy with that. We burned about five gallons of gas running 50 miles. The guy who rode with me told me it was similar to his 1600 buggy. He was surprised a few times with how well it soaked up the rough terrain. The course was a lot of fun. There were a lot of rough sections and tight sections but also many straight sections that were miles long. Some of those were super smooth, others rough enough that we only went 30 or 40mph in the OB. On the first wide, smooth, long straight there were berms roughly perpendicular to the direction of the road but they were about the size of speed humps, fairly short and rounded. We were hitting those at 40-50mph in the OB and getting a little air off some. We were coming up on another one and realized at the last second it was a ditch, maybe two feet deep and twenty feet wide. I think I mostly cleared it but it sent the OB flying and we were both amazed it didn’t seem to do any damage. There was one section, I think along a powerline, with ruts that must have been at least 18” deep. We were able to straddle them in the OB or we probably would have gotten stuck. There was one steep rock face with a sharp transition at the bottom that I hit a little too fast in the OB. Yesterday morning we pulled the trans out of the Subaru and discovered the pressure plate was packed with grass. The fingers were almost flat and the bolts didn’t have to unthread very far before they had no tension on them and the fingers didn’t move up much. We clamped the fingers down using a big toggle clamp and socket and blew/picked all the grass out. Then the fingers sat up at an angle. Disc looks good. Definitely have to get/make a cover for the bottom of the bellhousing. We got some good video so eventually I'll edit that and post it. We are considering going back to their next race in April. Any thoughts on bellhousing cover or our overheating issue? It sounds stupid but I would like to be able to run the AC, it gets hot in suits and helmets in an enclosed car.

Replaced the rear diff recently, it was whining badly again. The one I'd put in a couple years ago was ancient though. I should probably change the oil in that occasionally. I've done some brake work and replaced a rear wheel bearing. Found a crack on one of the front knuckles months ago. It's near the caliper bolt head. Before I did anything else I test welded a plate on an old knuckle and couldn't hammer it off, so the weld seemed to hold. Ground out the crack: Welded it up and created a fillet: Couple months later I noticed that the other three spindles were cracked in a similar spot. So I did the same thing to them. Grind out crack, preheat, weld. So far I haven't seen any more cracks but we haven't done much offroading since then. Planning on heading to Texas next week to see how it holds up to a desert race.

Thanks for that tip. My radio died a few weeks ago and when I had that out I spotted a black box. It says Subaru security unit so I unplugged it. Alarm hasn't gone off since. Everything else still seems to work.

Any more hints as to where this is on a 99 OB? I've looked under the dash several times and can't find anything as described online. I've had the car for two years and the alarm just started going off a few weeks ago after replacing the battery. I've unplugged the seat belt control which has been great. I tried unplugging the "keyless entry unit" which is the only black box I could find but then the car just doesn't run. I followed the wires from the security light but they just go into a giant bundle of a hundred wires above the fuse box. I do have the key fob but I think its battery is dead. I really just don't want the alarm but I might try to resurrect the remote so I can put it in valet mode for now. Any help on where I can actually find the alarm unit or what it looks like would be great.

Got a different mount for the tablet (GPS) which is much more stable than the X mount I had. Mounted the visors to the cage since I had them and haven't found anything better. Tried adding friction to them by preloading the springs. This turned out to be pretty easy but didn't do much. I also mounted the brackets at an angle that had more friction than how they were mounted stock, but they still swing around when cornering.

Had our old CBs checked out at a local CB shop. They were both OK but the antennas we had were both bad, which explains why they didn't work very well. Installed one of them in the dash of the Outback. I was happy with how well it fit below the radio. Here you can see the hack job the PO did on the radio wiring. Screwed in place perfectly. Just enough room for the mic cable to come out the side and towards the front. Don't have a picture of it but we screwed a mic hook just to the right of the radio so it's not just bouncing around the car. Antenna is mounted on the rear corner of the hood with a big washer underneath. So far it seems to be working great now, we had the other CB and a magnetic mount antenna I got on CL in the Impreza on our last trip. Very nice being able to instantly communicate with each other.

On Friday we hooked the Impreza up to the Outback to check out the Trans Wisconsin Adventure Trail. It looked like heavy rain all day in Indiana but none in Wisconsin and I've wanted to check out this route for a while. Basically a bunch of gravel roads someone has made a route out of that goes north/south through Wisconsin, following the Mississippi for a while. On the way we saw a flock of bald eagles eating a carcass (probably a deer) out in a field. As soon as we stopped and got out to take pictures they all started to fly off but my friend counted nineteen of them. Far more than I've ever seen in one place before. Took about two hours to get to the first real gravel road so we unhooked the cars and set up the gopros. A few of the gravel roads were windy and somewhat narrow with a few ditches or stream crossings, and there was probably at least a half mile long muddy stretch. The Outback could definitely hit the ditches faster than the Impreza and handled the mud better but what we were on could probably be driven in almost anything. We did play with the steering brake and it seems to do nothing at low speeds, which I've noticed before, but over 30 or 40mph it turns the car quite aggressively. We definitely locked up the inside rear tire at least once. Most of the route was wide gravel roads and maybe 1/3 pavement. It's about what I expected, not really challenging but interesting and scenic. It probably becomes more sandy and muddy as you go north. We drove about 150 miles, about a quarter of the route, and it was dark so we hopped on the interstate and went back home. I probably won't bother putting a video up on youtube as it wouldn't be very exciting to watch.

First I just added some square tubing to the stock ones. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144953-99-outback-build-advice-wanted/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1231150 That seemed to work but when we made the long travel I built new control arms to make them stronger and shift the wheels forward and out a little. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144953-99-outback-build-advice-wanted/page-4?do=findComment&comment=1270481 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144953-99-outback-build-advice-wanted/page-4?do=findComment&comment=1272393 Really we've only bent a couple of stock arms and every time it was when we clipped a big rock while going 10-20mph.

Video of our last trip to Interlake. We were more focused on testing the car than shooting video but we did get a few good clips.

Thanks for the tips.

So, some questions in no particular order. Where can I get a legit (bladder & can) one gallon fuel cell? Or a wedge shaped 2 or 3 gallon cell? Still wondering what the best Subaru sun visors are. Not having those was annoying and the stock ones are almost too loose to bother putting back in. Anyone ever built a scattershield for a Subaru transmission? Trying to decide between attaching it to the trans or the tunnel. Does the AC compressor disengage at full throttle? I don't think it does and keep meaning to rig up a switch to accomplish that. Where can I get fusible links / what amp rating should it be (to replace the one in the fuse box by the battery)? How can I disable or remove the alarm? It started going off occasionally when the battery started to get low. I have never heard it before this weekend.

We drove the Outback down to Interlake over the weekend and met a couple of friends with their woods buggy. This was the best place we could think of where we could run fairly rough but fast trails all day. Didn't really go that way for various reasons, one of which was that they had to crawl through the water holes to stay dry. I asked him to go as fast as he could and stick to the main trails. That didn’t really happen, but we did go 30-45mph on most of the main trails. The Outback seemed to bottom out more easily than I’d like when going 10-20mph, but when we’d hit similar rocks and ruts at 40mph it seemed to soak them up. There were quite a few other people out on the trails and not a lot of trails we could really go fast on, so we didn’t run a very high average speed. At one point we were back on some moderately difficult trails back in the woods and came to a difficult muddy step up. There were two lines that both looked very difficult for the Outback. They couldn’t get up either in the woods buggy. There was another line down through a water hole to bypass those. They backed up the buggy to get off the main trail and ran into the Outback. It did nothing to our front bumper but put a little dent in his engine cage. They were able to take the bypass, but it looked difficult. By this point a group of Jeeps had come up behind us and decided to watch. I was able to get off the main trail and out of the ruts much more easily than I expected and dropped into the water hole but could only get about halfway up the muddy climb out. I backed up and hit it again from a different angle and went right to the top. The Jeep guys all cheered and laughed and were quite impressed. At that point our friend said the Jeep guys would all have to do that or go home humiliated, and they all made it without difficulty. At one point we were trying a steep hill climb I was barely able to make in the Outback earlier in the day. We tried it once and didn’t quite get all the way to the top. Then the car kept stalling and it was cranking slow and eventually would not restart. We jump started it and went back out the easy way. Battery was only at about 10V at this point but the voltage did go up some when the car was running. After about 4 the sun was really killing our visibility with the muddy windows and we were getting frustrated with the slow pace and voltage and decided to call it a day. On the plus side we’d spent 6-7 hours in the car, most of that time strapped in with window nets up, helmets and suits on, etc and it was quite comfortable. It was hot without the AC on even though it was only in the 50s, so we had the AC on most of the day. When we were behind the buggy running fast the dust made it hard to see but it stayed out of the car. Being able to finish a desert race in the time limit will really come down to how rough the course is. We charged the battery overnight up to 12.3V. Put it in the car and by the time we got home it was up to 12.8V, so the alternator seems to still work. Even at idle it goes up to 13.5V.

I want to see your Brat flying through the air when it's done.

You hear the suspension much more than you feel it. If you're talking about the speed hump things on 30mph streets, you can hit those at any speed and hardly feel them. The sharper ones they have in some parking lots you can feel a little bit, but you can easily take them at 30+ rather than a crawl.

Here is the latest on the struts. Got some Fox shock boots and put them on the rear struts. A little modification was required but it's almost like the boots were made for the struts. The boots are fully compressed when it hits the bump stops, so hopefully they will last. This is what the front strut looked like. Way more sidewall clearance than we need. This amount of offset caused a few problems. One, it contributed to the friction/binding. Two, it caused clearance issues between the inner side of the spring and the wheel well and reservoir. Three, it made the strut swing front and back a lot when steered, which contributed to our hose pinching problem. So I cut about an inch and a half out of it. Also, it looked like the top plates were bending a little, so I gusseted them more around the slot to try to spread the load. Here is what it looks like welded and painted. Put the same shock boots on these, although I had to cut eight bellows off since the front struts are shorter. Enough clearance at the top of the tire we should be safe even with new tires this size. About an inch of sidewall clearance now. The ride quality in town is good now. I've hit a few things that send my Impreza flying and you can hardly feel them in the Outback now. Hopefully we'll put it to the test this weekend.

I've had the Dynomax super turbos on several cars, including a Subaru, and they are quiet. I've seen magazine comparisons that show they're about the best flowing / least backpressure muffler you can buy too. Seem to hold up well too.

I could go along with this, definitely still a gray area, but if the body and more than half the drivetrain are Subaru I'd consider it a Subaru. How about more details? Obviously a low range transfer case, but how about a six cylinder or supercharger? WRX calipers? Exo cage? Winch(es)? Locker(s)? HID/LED lights?

Now for the back end of the car. The fuel tank would only take fuel a quarter or half gallon at a time. It sounded like it was filling up the fill tube and then it'd kick off the gas pump and drain into the tank. I straightened out a couple of kinks in the vent line. When I took the fill tube off it looked like the flapper was sort of cupped, so I weighted the edge of that. While I had it apart I added a fuel level sender. This one ranges from about 10 ohms full to 70some ohms empty. Since the float arm needs room to move up and down freely, I rearranged the fuel cell foam like this. I wound up a piece of aluminum solder to keep the foam from shifting into this hole. Fun to install all this through a 5" hole in the center of the fuel cell. Added a fuel sock to the end of the pickup tube. These pictures sort of show how I wired the sender. For some reason I had to jump one of the wires from one sender to the other and then wire the other side of both senders to either side of the fuel level sender. The small plug near the top went to the passenger side sender stock. One terminal to the new sender, the other spliced to the driver's side. First picture is how I had it mocked up to test. Then I spliced and heat shrinked the connections. Here you can see which wires went where a little better. Taped and zip tied it all up after this. Driver's side strut and spare tire mount. Set it up so there's about an inch all the way around the tire in case we run something bigger in the future. Padded the rollcage tube so the strut didn't bang against it, but the two bolts hold it in place quite rigidly. You can see the 3/16" steel plate on top of the strut mount too. Passenger side spare strut mount. You can sort of see the fuel cell vent hose in these pictures. Has to go up and around the roll cage to prevent fuel coming out in case of a rollover. Rerouted vent hose and fuel level sender. Here's what it looks like with spare tire and struts bolted in. Loaded up with spare parts, tools, fluids, etc.

The tubing we'd added in front was ripping out of the radiator support during our trip back from Texas so we redid some of that when we got home. The bolt holes on the bottom of the front crossmember were nearly ripped out all the way so I welded a piece of plate on the bottom of that. Ideally we'd run the oil pan guard to the two bolts behind these also just to tie more things together but we decided not to this time. Using 1x3 this time under the radiator support instead of 1x1. Decided not to even try attaching anything to the radiator support since it's pretty torn up at this point. Welded two pieces of 1x3 from there to the front bumper and welded tow bar mount tabs to those. You can see the temporary tow bar mount tabs we welded on the front bumper to get home. Cut off the stock tie down loops. The passenger side was flimsy and they both were just hurting approach angle and not big enough to run a decent snatch strap to. Also bolted some 1" square tubes from the tube under the radiator support to the swaybar mounts. One more thing to tie everything together and hopefully they'll act as rock sliders.

Some more things we need for desert racing. 55W equivalent running lights in the rear, switched with the ignition, one amber, one blue. These things are super bright. Turns out there is a wire going into the hatch that is switched on with the ignition, so that was convenient. I think it was the white/blue one. Spliced into that and the big ground wire. BITD is specific about what they want in the first aid kit, so I went through the half dozen first aid kits we had and put together two that should qualify. Have to have a 1/4" x 2" driveshaft loop so I bolted this to the floor with some big washers.

We thought it would be nice to still have the dome light so I made holes to mount that to the cage gusset. Here is how the main cage turned out. The extra mirror is for the navigator so he can warn the driver when we're about to get nerfed. Below the window net you can see the secondary door latch we need. Tech guy wanted us to make the small polycarbonate "vent windows" to cover the rest of the opening the window nets don't cover.

I can't think of any reason this would cause a problem. It's possible when you're winching with the rear battery the voltage would drop low enough that you'd draw too many amps and blow the fuse to the rear lighter outlet. Or are you concerned about that happening when you're starting the engine? Regardless, you wouldn't have to plug or unplug the battery constantly. If you're really concerned about it, just plug it in when you go on a long trip every few weeks and it should be charged up.

Intentionally ambiguous, and I'm sure everyone has their own idea of what the ultimate Subaru would be, just curious to hear. At some point it stops being a Subaru to some people if it has a T case and solid axles, but again it's personal opinion.