pontoontodd

The seat and harness mounts took almost as much time as the rest of the cage. Wound up tilting the seats towards the middle of the car to keep our helmets away from the rollcage. Using Mastercraft Sportsman seats, they were the tallest back race seats I could find. Used the stock seat sliders so they could bolt to the floor and weren't too hard to adapt to the seats. Removing the seat sliders from the driver's seat was a PITA. They were riveted, bolted, spot welded, and wire welded to the bottom of the seat. The passenger seat was much easier, I think one of them might be from a slightly older or newer car but they look the same. The U of tubing will provide harness mounts and bolted tabs to hold the seat sliders in place. Tech guy wanted us to add a tab on the front of the U so it wasn't just hanging off the roll hoop. Welded the U and the tabs on it out of the car. Bolted it all to the bottom of the seat before welding the U to the roll hoop. The seats rub on the center console so the stock seat belt latches wouldn't fit easily. Now that I have time I'm going to make those work with the race seats, buckling in a five point harness every time you hop in the car is a nuisance. After we're done testing/racing for a while I'll put the stock seats back in.

Here are the real bends with the mockup bends: Building the actual cage. We sleeved the bottoms of the main hoops so we could drop the whole thing down and weld the tops of the joints after most of the tubes were fit and tacked in. Actually worked pretty well.

I found out King and Fox both sell 2.5" shock boots, so I'm going to try those. We went to a desert race in Texas with our buggy and the Outback but they've had a ton of rain there so the race was cancelled. On the plus side we're basically ready for the next one. Plan on taking the Outback to Interlake in a month or so to see if we can put 200-300 miles on it in 8-12 hours. I'll start catching up to where we're at with this. These are pictures of the mockup of our cage out of 1.5" conduit (about 1.75" OD). This helped a lot, especially when bending the real thing.

We need to see some pictures and video of this thing in action. It makes those 39"s look small.

Copy that. A little less compression, I'll have to see how much we really need.

I like those, definitely cheaper. 5421K16 looks like it might work. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. I saw those bellows on MMC but they seem a little expensive. Might try them. I can always slot some regular nuts, just figured if I could get some castle nuts for a reasonable price it would save some time and effort. Might not need them anyhow.

So, a few questions. Anyone know where to get long, large diameter shock / driveshaft boots? It looks like there are about a half dozen brands, none have sizes listed, and the ones I've tried are too small for these struts. Something at least 2.5" inside diameter and 12" long would be nice. This is going to sound like a stupid question, but what are the best Subaru sunvisors? We're putting a cage in right now so the stock visors won't work where they're at. It's almost not worth mounting them to the cage, they're so low friction they swing all over the place when you're driving. Is there something from a different car I should use? If the lights plugged in that would be great but not important. Anybody know where to get M12x1.25, M14x1.5, and M16x1.5 castle nuts?

Here's how the struts with offset springs turned out. Seems to reduce friction. If nothing else, these springs are half the cost and I only need one per strut instead of two.

That does seem early for the gas tank to rust out. Replacing the gas tank on a Subaru is very involved too, especially if it's rusty. You have to remove the entire rear subframe/drivetrain/suspension. Then there's all the hoses that go in and out of the gas tank. Sorry I don't have a link handy but I have seen a pretty good walkthrough of it on some Subaru forum, maybe this one.

Test fit a larger spring to the left front strut. Haven't driven the car, just set it on the strut. Seems to be pretty low friction, but so does the original spring setup on the right front. The rears seem like they have a lot more friction, judging by pushing up and down on the bumpers. I'll try this on the rear next. This is a larger tie rod (EV425) vs stock (EV257). The larger ball joint comes very close to the crossmember, so I'll have to watch the boot and make sure they don't get worn or torn. If they do, I'll probably try the EV240 next.

Tried this to solve the sticking problem. First cut spiral grooves in the bushings. Then installed the seals, packed with grease, and sprayed on some graphite: That didn't seem to make any difference. I have some larger OD springs I'm working on spring perches for that I can mount at an angle, hopefully that will reduce the binding.

One of the issues we had the last time out with the long travel was that the hoses were getting crimped in the mounts in the front and leaking. Since the strut swings forward and back quite a bit when you steer, it was pinching the hoses. Slotted the mounting plates, got smaller hoses and adapter fittings, hopefully this solves the problem. Reinstalled with the smaller hose. You can see it is still a very close fit.

My 2c, either build it inside or outside the car, both would probably be even harder. If you're not racing or trying to prevent body damage though, I think some 2x4 or similar steel tubing connecting the front and rear suspension would do a lot of good for not much weight, time, and expense and could double as sliders. Then try to tie the bumpers, strut mounts, etc into those.

1.5 x .095 should be plenty strong for your trail rig. .120 wall is only 26% heavier though. Any of those layouts should be strong enough if done correctly. In racing a continuous hoop is required behind the seats (inverted U between the B pillars). I think that's in case your welds are spoob or cracked it will still save you in a bad rollover. Start mocking it up and see which would be easiest to build. You can get EMT and bends pretty cheap, start cutting and tacking. Keep in mind you'll have to weld the tops of the joints somehow. You can cut the roof off, cut holes in the roof, cut holes in the floor for your hoops to drop into, or sleeve the bottoms of the tubes. If you're really worried about weight like you keep saying, you won't want to put a full cage in the car. Something like the subframe connectors they put on muscle cars would probably give you the most stiffness and weight per pound. Maybe you could make something like that to support your front bumper, but I couldn't really tell from your pictures. You'll want to connect the strut mounts, control arm mounts, and engine mounts if possible. Does this meet the rules for some racing organization? Just curious. For desert racing we need 1.75 x .120 for the entire cage.

Definitely interested to hear how the Audi works out if you start pushing it. I would think they're less reliable and parts are harder to get and more expensive than Subarus. Like you say, most Subarus don't have lockers, low range, or a lot of suspension travel either. The low end torque of a V8 would help a lot. How long you can keep up with Jeeps??? Even with completely stock suspension, I've never been with anyone in a Jeep who will even go half the speed we go in Subarus because the Jeep ride quality is terrible. They can crawl much better, but that's a different story. Second bratman on the headgaskets. Everyone I've talked to says you might have to replace them once, but not every 100k.

I just found this, looks like it will be very helpful finding springs: http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/MOOG_Coil_Springs_Spec.pdf This Moog distributor has a sortable version which is even more useful: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_coil_springs.asp They also have this outer tie rod size chart: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_outer_tie_rod_ends.asp stock is ES3712 And this amazingly useful inner tie rod size chart: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_inner_tie_rods.asp stock is EV473, looks like I just have to decide how much longer I want the tie rods.

Looks like a great candidate for long travel. Have you tried cycling the suspension with the shocks off to see how much travel it could have and what's limiting it?

As mentioned earlier, replaced the alternator with a Subaru reman. Also swapped a different power steering pump on. The one that's been on the car offers very little assist at idle. This one is much better. I've had these KC lights on for a while now. They're a spot pattern and I put a set of cheap HID conversions in them. They have amazing range, probably 1/4 mile, but very focused. I have them aimed slightly to each side of center. One issue I had at first was that they would slowly drop down while off roading. I think after I cranked down the adjustment bolts they stayed put, but just in case I added these long bolts underneath so I can fine tune the vertical aiming and they won't drop down. These are wired into the fog lights since those died the first time we took this thing off road, but the switch and wiring were all conveniently in place. The HIDs even plugged right into the stock fog light plugs, although the polarity was reversed. The downside of that is that the fog lights only come on with the low beams, the opposite of what I want. I have seen how tos on making the fog lights work regardless of hi/lo beam switching, but I'd rather have them switch on and off with the high beams for highway driving. So I figured that out, fortunately the Haynes manual has fairly accurate color coded wiring diagrams of these circuits. Basically had to cut the yellow/blue wire from the fog light switch and splice a wire into the plug end of it. This is the pin looking at the wiring harness plug: - - - - - X Ran that to the plug for the hi/lo switch under the dash. Spliced into the red/yellow wire on that end. These pictures aren't very good but hopefully you get the idea. Now you can turn the HIDs on and off with the fog light switch and they only come on when the high beams are on. So, more questions: Anybody know where I can get longer tie rods? The ignition coil has been humming for a long time, I'm thinking I should replace it, and then I'd have a spare. Any brand better than any other? The biggest problem with the long travel struts is still that they are sticking. I think at least part of the problem is that the springs are inline with the strut rather than angled toward the contact patch. So I'm looking for some springs about 3.5 or 4" ID, 14" long, and 200#/in spring rate. Anyone know of a good spring size chart or a place that winds good springs for $50-$100 each?

I don't see why not, but I don't know much about those cars.

A little rust/fatigue re-repair on the LR strut tower after we got home. I had just welded this back together without adding material the first time. The other side had a larger gap so I'd added a strip of sheet metal and that seems to be staying together, so I did it on this side. Not very pretty or exciting, but it needed to be done. Still looking for longer tie rods and a bigger airbox if anyone has any ideas.

First, here is a video mainly from the Badlands a few weeks ago. You can really see the difference in ride quality in the figure eight clip. For the most part, the video doesn't do it justice. There were trails where the Forester was thrashing around, tires bouncing off the ground, and we were being lightly jostled around in the Outback. Or if the Outback was leading the way, we could take any line we wanted and the guy in the Forester is pushing it as hard as he can and trying to find the smoothest line to keep up. The main problem still seems to be static friction. I am going to try cutting spiral grooves in the bearings and adding graphite grease when I put the fronts back together to see if it helps. Installed a Subaru thermostat and Subaru rebuilt alternator. Started mocking up a cage too to see how practical that would be and confirm exactly what we'd have to do to be legal. A few more things on my wish list are: Improved air filtration - current thought is to find a larger (longer) stock air box that would fit that I could run a snorkel to the hood scoop or at least high up in the engine compartment, maybe with a filter twice as big as stock. So if you know of one, post up. Bigger fuel cell for surge tank. I could probably fit a 12" x 18" x 4" tall cell on the passenger side. Still looking for longer inner and/or outer tie rod ends too.

Here is how I did the fuel lines and the floor. Cut a few pieces of 1" foam to support the floor panels. With the stock floor panels set over the top. Eventually I'll make a piece of sheet metal to cover this with carpet glued to it. The stock floor panel that covers the spare tire is heavy. After I drove the car for a day, this happened. The gasket under the cap of the fuel cell is sagging out and falling apart. There were two gaskets stacked, not sure if that was normal or relevant to the problem. I'm sure this thing is normally mounted with the cap at the top but I'm disappointed the gaskets couldn't take pump gas for a day. Cut a piece of cork gasket to cover the entire hole. I have no use for a cap on the side. Made a steel plate to bolt over the top, welded three bolts to a split ring on the inside for easy assembly and disassembly. I'd really like to fit a bigger surge tank but I haven't found anything larger than these 1 gallon tanks that would fit. There are some wedge shaped four, five, and six gallon cells I've seen but I think they're too wide, not to mention expensive.

Thanks for all the advice. The lifetime warranty parts can be a good deal sometimes. When I called about the thermostat, the Subaru dealer said a reman alternator is $106 ($50 core), so I think I'll go that route. Another issue I ran into when I put the front struts on is that the tie rods were just barely long enough when everything was realigned (roughly). Probably two threads of engagement. I'm not sure why since the lower arms are basically the same and I set the alignment about the same as it was with the a-arms. I had to adjust them at least 1/2" longer. I wanted to drive the car that day so I made some extenders, which seem to be holding up fine. Are there any longer inner or outer tie rods available? An inch longer would be ideal, even a half inch longer would work. I went through my pile of various used Subaru and aftermarket inners and outers and they're all the same lengths.

I was including all the chain stores with the Autozone reman comment. I know all those reman starters and alternators last about six months. A warranty is great if you just drive around town but if you're hundreds of miles from home in the woods it's worthless. There is a difference between a reman and made in China, not saying one is much better than the other, but some Chinese parts are actually made well. Not that I have the time and resources to figure out which ones.