Discombobulated

Passenger is obviously easier but drivers isn't too bad removing the battery helps a bit and I had a lift when I did mine and that was nice too:) but the only leak I have is what looks to be the crank seal maybe?Middle by the timing belt cover, but it's minor so I'm going to wait for the TB replacement to do it all.

Might as well do as much as you can while it's apart:) be nice getting new foam in there, it's pretty amazing the heat and cold you can lose with the deteriated foam..

I always go to superbright LEDs, but the LEDs in my 91 Toyota have the same bulb and they don't dim either, so it must be the way the dimmer switch works. Is this in the brat? I wonder if the dimmer is different... Anyway these are the bulbs I ordered.. http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/206/

LEDs have been in for a few but here is a pic:) Love my green as close to factory but way brighter and greener, thank goodness the dimmer works or they would be too bright this is all the way turned down:) And who doesn't like a shot of my new master key in action:) have a good weekend guys:)

Or you could just drill little holes through the first pipe stop at the second and tach the holes shut therefore supporting the two where it's rattling.

When I got my Suby my brother replaced from the center hanger back so I'm not positive on if the double wall goes throughout the entire system but I had my Exaust guy burn the outer pipe into the inner pipe to stop the rattles he started all the way by the to of the manifold all the way throughout the downpipe to the y pipe and the rattles are gone:) But when I say he burned when I was watching him it looked like he just really burned a hole through the first pipe and then he built the weld back out so it pretty much fused the two together, if that makes sense, just an idea:) Oh and the part that really sucked was I thought my cat was rattling at first so we cut the output of the Y off and gutted the cat..........bad idea for me. All that did was make it sound like a pos with an Exaust leak:( So I had to get Y made and another cat to bring down the noise and I still don't like the way it sounds.. If you like the way it sounds be careful what you do it ended up being a can of worms for me and if I could afford it I would see if the stock cat is still available and buy one to get it back to normal... Good luck:) Disco.

Yea, I might just hit up the yard and see if the last Suby there might have a decent looking distributor and if I can get it cheap enough I might just throw it in to see if it's just a quick swap, at least the noise may or may not go away but why not. I would imagine the dealer might want my left leg for one so I don't even think I'm going to check but I have not checked on aftermarket stuff but I really don't want to, hmmmmm it runs right now just fine but my OCD is killing me. I will update when I decide to mess with it, of course thanks for all the help guys feel free to keep throwing stuff in advice is always welcome:) Disco.

Excellent, how's the new switch working?

Yes, depending on driving habits it will get worse mileage, I have an auto and I love it due to recent back surgery but on the highway fuel economy goes out the door going the speed limit it seems. In town probably comparable but having an extra gear or two would be night and day. But if I was looking at a Suby as hard as they are to find in good shape I would take it either way. It's paid for and the extra mileage I personally don't care about. I am new to my Suby but from what I have read its a great little tranny, shifts great and has had no issues at all if you service it it should last a long time. Although mine is just a fwd so I am not 100% if it's the same as the 4wd:) Good luck if you get it let's see lots of pics:)

So the noise I take it you are talking timing belt, would this noise be coming from right at the distributor and no where near any other parts of the motor? And sorry I forgot to add after driving at higher speeds or for an extended amount of time the noise is gone completely, shut it down for 10 min start it up the noise will be the same as a cold start for a couple minutes then disappear. If I start the car cold and idle for 20 minutes it will stay the same, but if I were to start it jump on the highway, stop, it's gone before the 20 minutes? And shearing the pin wouldn't make it just a done deal? So If I slipped on the belt would it take a belt adjustment or can I reposition the distributor by taking it out and re aligning it I guess you could say. Man I need to quit geeking out on the Suby, I think I am getting it dialed in a little to quick and things like this happen........deep breath......ok I'm cool:)

Yes greens plugged in while timing, advance is working, and the thing that confused me was I can see on the two timing adjustment bolts that it was in the middle of the adjustment range if that makes sense pretty equal amounts both ways right at 15. This did not move, but now I had to advance it until there Is no more adjustment it's all the way and at 15? Like it skipped a tooth but is this possible?

So yes I did it, I bought an awesome cap and rotor from the dealer$$$, decided to track down a noise coming from what seems to be coming right at the distributor, I took both clamps off gave it a quick look see...............started doing something else...............started cleaning things ................um did more things............ate some food .............ah all done went to move it up in the drive and it won't start.............hmmmmm what the fork...........tried again......heard a pop like a mini backfire.........and then it hit me, YOU HAVE GOT TO BE FRICKEN KIDDING ME. So I hate myself before I even got out of the car:( get out take a look sure enough I knew exactly what I did but I was still in denial. Well brand new cap cracked but the rotor is fine. From what I saw the cap was just laying just right where the rotor caught an edge broke the cap and that's when I realized I'm not an idiot just got a little to ahead of myself:( anyhoo so, had to go get a stupid cap and rotor from autozone (not excited) put it in and it will barely run so wow it must have tweaked it enough to throw the timing off? Well the two screws haven't moved at all and I figured it would take more than a plastic cap to get caught in there to tweak it. So I loosened the screws to mess with the timing and it's waaaaay retarded, not having a light I adjusted the best I could before it was pinging under load and went to my buddies. Threw the light on it and got it to 15, now I know spec is 20 but when I had it on 20 it pinged like a madman. So 15 was ultimately my happy spot. Ok well it's at 15 but it is all the way advanced on the adjustment, it will not adjust anymore. SO 1) Could I have tweaked something in the distributor to put it I guess you could say off a tooth?? I mean the gear is held with a pin I think so a plastic rotor and cap binding just doesn't seem to me that it would tweak Anything metal. 2) Why was 15 my happy spot instead of 20? I know it's not related but thought I would ask:) 3) If it is in fact hosed it runs fine now but I have no adjustment at all anything less is to retarded and it has no power, having no adjustment bugs me and I will end up replacing if needed. 4) Back to the original reason for this entire issue is the noise coming from the distributor, if I hold the distributor I can feel the noise and it almost sounds like the rotor is hitting something but it can't be as there are no marks on the contacts and it runs fine. Any ideas on this noise? And again this noise is the same now and was the same before I broke the cap. Sorry for the long post, I am very aggravated with myself right now but whatever it happened now I just need some ideas:) As always thanks in advance!! Disco.

Got my cruise installed Got my windows tinted New starter Tune up stuff Fixed the cel Got some tunes with some polk audio 5 1/4 up front 6 1/2 in the rear deck:) Fixed some leaks Cleaned it up Ummm man I need to start my own thread:) Anyway heres a pic, yay...

Excellent!!! Sweet justice and glad to hear it, I think this thread covers plenty of info and will be useful for other members Disco.

Here is the big canister and where I tapped into the vacuum, think it's correct and it made sense but I'm sure it can go anywhere:)

I think you can adjust the rollers from the inside on how much pressure is on the window, possibly just adjust a smudge of pressure either on the outer roller or the inner one? That sounds like it might help but again just a guess might tinker with one window before oiling again, I just got my windows tinted and was worrying about the rollers damaging the tint but the inside rollers don't seem to touch the windows as much as the outside.

Here is some more pics of the brake sensor stuff, another pic of the pins and of the vacuum wiring under the hood:)

Sweet I might even get a hair tonight if you want some info to work with tomorrow, I'm getting the itch to do my floor lights:)

From my experience getting my gl recently I kinda forgot about the 80's and the speed limit on the highway....in the 80's:) Funny when I bought the car from my brother I jumped on the highway and I'm just kinda puttin along going 65 and I looked at my tach and turned down my radio and was like......uh.......uh is this correct or is this thing not shifting into 4th:) So long story short the 3 speed is pretty crazy, I mean it's cool but on the highway going 70 is I guess different than what I'm used to, but I tell you what flooring it the other day to pass a car I can't believe it kicked into second and this thing actually moved pretty good, I was impressed:) anyhoo that's my pointless story about a 3 speed.. Disco.

No same thing, I just say tach wire because the brain labels it as tach overspeed... But your harness pin outs are definitely different but I would imagine internally and color coded the same, looks that way anyway. I am getting under my dash tomorrow finally and I will snap some pics of my harness and other stuff:)

Hmmm, my wire was a separate yellow with white stripe(I think white stripe) ran out to the bay and had an open ended hook connector to mount directly to the coil negative side, definitely didn't do squat without it. Ahh I see the wiring going to the wheel now so I take it mine has 5 total wires just to ground the switch for the cruise light to light up. Weird the tach set up is different though but I would imagine there is a - coil wire somewhere I could tap into like the cluster but it was made to go to the coil so that's where I put it. So indeed we have some differences in the harness but all the set ups I have seen at the yard all went to the tach, hmmm might be another thing to verify I guess:) Well poop, you need cruise!!! Now it's a quest!!!!

Any yards near you to swoop up a system? The problem I see testing it is always you need to be driving to do it:) I don't quite understand how the vss knows that I'm going over 25 with a mechanical speedo but maybe that's something in the cluster doing its thing? I was wondering what your plug going to the stalk looked like, so on mine I have a flat 3 wire plug going to the switch on the left of the cluster and then for the steering wheel buttons it is factory wiring through the wheel and has a plug sticking out of the harness the cruise harness plugged into, so 2 separate spots on mine is kinda 1 spot on yours going to the stalk, right? And I don't think I asked or I missed it but is your tach wire hooked up to the coil?

Yup, bring an ohmmeter to the yard and you can test them before removing them, I called a couple dealers and they told me the parts has been discontinued? So as stated above I grab any that show good regardless if needed or not:)

Isn't the cts on the manifold and the fan sensor on the rad? Kinda sorta have the same thing going on but just a little tiny lag before it pics up from a stop, I would like to know what you find:) I have done all the tune up stuff also and it just seems to be missing a little off the line:) we all know it's not a race car but it feels like a bog more than a power thing if that makes sense.

I'm not too familiar with my Suby yet but doing a manual to factory swap is going to be a lot of little work but worth it in the end, any kind of aftermarket kits are nothing less than a major pain from past experiences and I only did it on a single cab truck!!! Just putting aftermarket door actuators is a task in itself, as the post above says parts are hard to find and believe me, mounting them and getting them to work as good as factory will never happen. If you were to pull out a factory set up the only issue I see would be the door panels, as rare as my sedan seems to be in Colorado, I have yet to find one with my color panels and the ones I have found are wagons:( Post up in the classifieds and get on Craig's and eBay and see what you can find, good luck and make a thread and post lots of pics if you decide to tackle this wonderful upgrade:) Disco.