Discombobulated

Yes, a 3 wire plug going to the cruise switch on the dash and the plug that links to the wheel buttons, just noticed the shrink tubing that's different:) I have also seen the cruise on the actual dash too I believe. So looks to be 3 different systems but really I would imagine identical as far as wiring goes..

Nah man go for it, like I said as much as I searched all the cruise threads were dead ends and bits and pieces of good info and different styles but nothing extensive, might as well cover what we can here:). It does look like a dealer add on though, looks like the stalk might be the exact same thing as the button set up for my wheel! I will give mine a look over tomorrow or Friday my lady is getting a bit jealous......yea I know but I have been geeking out pretty hard on the Suby lately:)

Whatever you guys feel like doing go for it I'm pretty much ok besides maybe posting more pics:) thanks for all the help though!!!!!

Yea who knows, my Toyota pickup has the same issues just different places, after removing the dash I did figure out what NEVER to touch again unless I really need to. Just like anything on the entire car though the auto window switches need tender care just like the trim on the outside but that seems to be doomed no matter what:( I wish they would have used the little square nuts that can be replaced like the ones that go around the stereo bezel, that would have been nice, funny how some stuff is so genius on some of the car but the genius was off that day when they thought of other stuff:)

Could too much oil put extra tension while starting and snapped the belt? New to the Suby so not sure if that's possible or not...but it sounds reasonable ?

Wonderful:) just went through the same thing putting in LEDs in my cluster, but mine was worse. The heater panel was cooked from the 2 74 bulbs that are on all the time to light up the buttons. I had to get a different panel from the yard and it was in really good shape but kinda weird how the car at the yard had 290k on it and all the screw mounts were flawless with no cracks at all but mine with 64 k was destroyed? Wonder if climate might decide the fate of the plastic? Anyhoo, good work:)

Hmm, so when I was installing the kit I was confused on the brake and clutch wires, I plugged in that piece and it didn't really look like it did anything leaving the wire you have in the pic as the green and yellow was left open? Neutral safety for an auto maybe?. I am going to get under my dash again today or tomorrow and I will snap some more pics of the brake wires linked to the clutch grounds and maybe it will make more sense. Although I didn't think I needed that wire I have in the pic hell who knows maybe I do, but I think when added to a manual that needs to be added for the ground maybe the pedal housing isn't a good ground and this needs to be added.....or not I'm just guessing here:). I was also wondering what the vent output does? Not sure what a vent has anything to do with cruise:) Well this is all good info, more pics to come and let's get rrgrr working:)

Hmmmm, seems it would work the same, hit the brakes cruise goes off, push the clutch same thing? This came with the kit and I didn't use it? Thought it was part of the clutch side which I don't have so I linked the clutch wires with the brake wires so in the end I made the 2 grounds really 1 so the brake sensor grounds both, if that makes sense..

Please feel free to correct, add, or ask questions here as this topic from what I have searched has a lot of dead end threads. I will add some more stuff and the pages that silverback added will work wonderfully, any other pics you might need of anything else I will be more than happy to get them for you just let me know. But I guess after all this talking and I never said how it's working... It works great and was wonderful on my way to work today!!! I have never had cruise in any of my older cars and it was well worth the 75 bucks I spent, and after knowing how simple it really is if you find a junkyard car with it don't hesitate to pull it all out and upgrade. It really is a pretty simple system as they made it to be so they could install it quickly at the dealer, it took me most of the day but I tend to get pretty OCD on my routing and other things but I bet if I had a full kit to install again I could get it in in a couple hours or less. I am still going to hunt for a new steering wheel switch as the kit I bought came with the newer style wheel switch, so luckily I got one out of a yard car but the letters are worn off but the switch works fine, but my OCD is kicking in especially looking at a brand new switch:) So I might even go as far as finding a newer wheel to put the switch on but finding a newer wheel in pristine condition might be harder than an older style new switch. But the older switch has been discontinued so I don't know....but I have cruise yay

Well I ended up getting the kit installed over the weekend unfortunately my phone took a crap and I had to get a new one so I was unable to take pics of it, BUT, the more I got into the install the more simple it was and pics wouldn't really do much good as it is very plug and play:) What I learned from the install that might help someone if pulling it from a junkyard car, The brain of the system will be located above the hood release lever. The harness is all one piece just unplug it all and this is all you need for the wiring. The vacuum actuator of course is mounted right by the gas pedal. And of course the vacuum stuff under the hood one system will have a big ball canister with the four wires going to the valve and the other is completely electric and is way smaller, but looks to me that the 4 wire set up is the same on both, but I think the turbos had the electric vacuum but not 100%. The three things that will be going out in the bay will be the tach wire, the vacuum line to the switch that is mounted on the passenger wheel well, and the 4 wires going to the vacuum switch. I was questioning where the tach wire plugged into but after searching it goes to the negative side of the coil:) If you have an automatic you will just need the one brake sensor and you will piggyback the grounds that would go to the clutch sensor, this kinda confused me for a minute but the plugs are made to chain together to complete the grounds. And of course you need the switch on the left side of the cluster and the steering wheel button which is really easy to get to but you will have to cut the horn part of the wheel to mount it. As for rrgrr this is the main switched power plug for my system I'm not sure though if the stalk system is anywhere near the same though?? Here is a pic of some of the other bits of the system after I got them installed.. The sensor on the left is the one I added the right one is the original sensor for the brakes. This is the vss plug for the speed sensor it just is hanging out of the factory harness, this one was the most hidden out of all of them. Here is a pic I took before I installed everything not sure if it might help anyone. I am also going to take some more pics of the underhood stuff and add info as I remember..

Ahhhh I have been thinking about it myself but seems to be more hassle than it's worth, I'm just glad my key opens up the other 3 doors I think I can deal, although it would be nice:). But I would like to hear more of the set up and system you installed and how:)

I have not got the kit in yet, I just got done getting my deck and speakers in amongst other things but it is on the list possibly tomorrow (Sunday). I installed the switch just because I had the cluster out but I was kinda looking around at what I needed to do hoping I can figure it out without an actual diagram. Quite a few plugs under the dash that look the same, steering wheel switch is a no brainer and the underhood vaccum stuff looks easy too, just some of the harness plugs are all the same.. I was thinking of going to a dealer and just take a chance if they had an older tech that might still have the install stuff but I think I'm overthinking it:) I will post up some pics and whatever else that might come up here:)

So what do I get for having only 64k on an 87 gl(: Sweet went through, just got the 1st subaru and breast cancer awareness for my mom:) Nice info didn't even know about it:)

Yes, I would like to check it out as well but some of us refuse to conform to Facebook so just a YouTube vid would be sweet:)

Good to know this the locals around here just scrapped the last 3 loyales I have been picking off of:( but I ended up using some 3m double sided and it worked great, didn't want anything too permanent but I guess it doesn't really matter as the trim needs to stay forever:) finding out real quick to think of good ways to take stuff apart on these cars, every part I need to replace is broken but the part that is good that the broken part is attached to breaks taking it off so I have reversed my plan......

Here is the eBay listing, I saw it in a junkyard car recently and can't believe they still sell it:) it's so old I had to cut out the single din hole it's set up for a dual knob!!! Have yet to put it in yet but when I do I will post fitment. But cool thing it looks like it will clear without taking the chime box out:) anyway here is the link..http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=351012343463 It feels pretty stout though the plastic is thick and the open spot on the side would be great to add some toggles to, but I think it is made to support the old EQ that came factory.. Lemme know if you want some more pics:)

10-4 Gloyale, some stuff kinda matches enough to give me an idea, I'm sure once digging in it will plug and play:) weird I'm really excited to have cruise and I never would have came close to going through so much hassle to have it but to find the kit new in the box local for 75 bucks... How could I pass it up:)

Looks to be exactly 1.5 and this is a pretty old school kit but still available just got it yesterday:)

Thanks guys!!!

Sweet, I kinda figured it wasn't in the fsm:( I was kinda thinking the switch would work but it just doesn't look like it will fit at the correct angle, hmmm when I dive in I will look it over. I should be able to get it all together just figured I would ask for a diagram first . The more I look at it the easier it looks to install:) Sweet thanks for your help, I plan to take a bunch of pics and post a wonderful thread on the install for future members:) Thanks again!!!! Disco.

Or might anyone know if the chiltons has a diagram of this. Also while I'm on the subject in the kit I bought is for a newer loyale so the steering wheel button is different, I have found a button for my wheel but it isn't in the greatest of shape. So if I were able to find a newer style wheel on the cheap would it fit on my 87 so I could use the new button?? Still not too familiar with my Suby so not sure on the difference between the two style wheels. Thanks in advance:) Disco.

This dealer actually uses the old system for parts look up, it gives you the old blown up view of what you are looking at too, worth a shot. http://parts.donaldsonssubaru.com

I have searched and found plenty of threads about cruise but one thread the pics had expired from photobucket:( I have an 87 gl with a full new kit I'm about to install when I get some time but I have no fsm or instructions. I was looking at the chiltons but not sure if it would give a diagram for the vaccum lines or the harness, I recently was at the junkyard and they had the cruise but it had already been picked apart to see where everything went. I have a pretty good idea where everything goes as far as the hardware it's just the vaccum lines I'm kinda lost at and knowing the exact location of the harness would be sweet too:) I will also take a lot of pics and make a thread on the install as I go, if the chiltons has the things I need I will buy one but I'm not sure if the afterthought cruise will even be in the book? Any help is always appreciated and thanks in advance:) Disco.

Well figured out why my starter took a junk on my face, when I was flushing out my heater core I guess I drenched the starter, when I got the old one out it was oozing brown rust paste out of the bottom of it, so I guess it just took a week or so to rust out causing my no start issue.. Oh well I guess I learned the hard way not to do that again:) So I have dodged the infamous ignition switch issue which is good. Reset my timing and its running like a champ..

Ahhhh finally got my tail light I ordered and got it in, looks way better:) we'll as good as it's going to look anyway. Couple of questions, I have recently contracted the infamous no start click that I have read a lot about, but from what I'm reading seems push button start or a nice dedicated relay from the ignition circuit to the starter to take care of it BUT... I'm having a hard time with this being the solution as I have such low miles on it?? My brother said he had to replace the starter due to a nasty noise not the no start issue, but of course as we all know unless you want to give an arm and a leg he went with an aftermarket.. So back to the issue, get in go to start click click click, get out pop the hood have my daughter hold the ignition on and give the starter the slightest tap and bam starts. If the ignition was the problem is it safe to say that this wouldn't work and I just have a bad starter?? I mean if I need to run a relay that's fine but what do you guys think? I have all the symptoms of the ignition issue but wouldn't the tapping say it's the starter or is it that the tapping helps it kick in due to not enough juice to kick the starter?? If I do get a starter I would imagine any aftermarket will be about the same or is there a preferred type?? Also dealing with a couple codes but the one that is confusing me is a code 45 which I believe was a kick down relay? Anyone had experience with that specific code and fixed it? Thanks in advance guys:) Disco.