TheWanderer

The 1900's I'll have to double check with the shop and see if they can put hands on them physically, as well as get a price. I'm not showing them in the inventory list I have, but that doesn't mean we don't have them (its been awhile since inventory has been counted and more often times than not we have the stuff in stock). The angel eye lamps are on the more expensive side of the Optilux line. I do show that we have 2 different angel eyes, both on sale. We have the 2550 oval angel eye driving lamps for $55 plus the shipping, and the 2500 angel eye (round lamps) for the same price. I will double check them as well this afternoon to make sure we physically have them in stock I may be able to get you down a bit further in price but have to see what the boss says first

So in theory my 88 DL should have the wiring/plugs already for power options (mirrors, locks, windows) then? If so, then sign me up for those upgrades

http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/default/optilux/

I got the call into the boss today, he is going to find out about the wheels. Hopefully I will hear something back in the next day or 2 I can almost guarantee that the wheels won't be very cheap due to the bolt pattern being so different...That may be the only drawback to going this route...

I'm in the same boat John, I've got all seasons on there now that came with the car. but they have maybe 10k life left on them. I'd like to find some 14" steelies that fit (alloys would be even better), but the wacky 4x140 bolt pattern makes it hard. I am considering drilling for 6 lugs in the future.

If you want something to supplement your headlights for distance, you would want the driving lamps. However, if you are looking for something to fill in the gaps up close (so to speak), you would want fog lamps. And for the absolute best light output, you would want to go with a round reflector as opposed to a square/rectangular reflector (not that either of the latter don't work, but a round reflector has more surface area and can focus the beam better) I have some low budget auxillary lamps as well, made by Hella under their Optilux brand that would probably fit the bill for ya. Did you want something rounded? Squared off? Free form lenses or patterened lenses? I also have the O[tilux line available with blue lenses on most items (instead of clear), as well as the angel eye style lights. If you'd like a combination lamp (driving and fog), I believe we have some Optilux 2020 kits in stock at the warehouse for about the price you are looking to spend.

Fog? Driving? Headlamps?

You and I are definitely going to have to get together on this one I want to do this in my car eventually as well, but vinyl be damned, its automotive grade leather all the way, and none of that stock blue colored crap either Looks good :thumbsup:

What were you looking for? You may just be surprised

I can certainly do Supertones, and anything else Hella related This includes parts for lighting (in some cases), bulbs, wipers, etc. I can also deal with Sparco gear (competition gear like helmets, nomex, etc to tuner stuff like pedal covers, sportswear, shoes, etc), Terratrip rally computers, Team Dynamics wheels, and a number of other items. If its lighting or racing related parts and accessories in our product lines, I can probably get it And I can almost guarantee you won't beat our pricing on the Supertones (or any of the Hella lighting for that matter)

shoot me a message, I'll give ya my cell number. I'm off work Monday,,,Or if ya want, just stop by my place. I'm in the old Scout right on Rodeo Rd near the viaduct at Buffalo Bill. You'll see the car, can't miss it lol

So I'm stumped. The Subaru has (had?) a cold idle issue. When I picked it up yesterday morning i had to sit with the gas floored and restart it about half a dozen times to get it to idle properly so I could drive it home. Once it warmed up it ran great. Just went out this morning (6 am, and 21 deg.) and she fired right up and idled fine. No problem at all. Turned her off and let her cool down again, went back out at 7:30, and she fired right back up again and idled perfect. Only thing I've done different since yesterday was run some Seafoam through the intake vacuum line off of the brake booster (1/2 of a can), Seafoam in the gas (1/4 of a can), and Seafoam in the oil (the last 1/4 can). Also put a half tank of gas in when I left and drove it home. And I never even touched the CTS... I did find a fuel leak this morning though while sitting on a slight incline. Its dripping very slowly (couple drops here and there) in front of the right rear wheel, near the tank and the line with the check valve in it. Mostly coming from a small puddle on the frame. Need to get it up in the air and see, but I suspect either a crack in the fuel tank (worst case), a dryrotted rubber line, or ?. Hoping its just the rubber (cheap fix)...

Olstens...what a joke of a yard I called them once to check on a price for a $15 jukyard part for my old Fiero (if memory serves it was a used MAS or some other sensor cheap sensor, been >5 years at this point) and they quoted me $150 plus shipping...So i went to Andersons and pulled it myself and still paid $45 New it was only like $55, but no one had it in stock... Maybe I'm a bit spoiled by the prices of the East U pull it yards lol Anywho, enough of that. Any chance you might have a compression tester? Called mom and she can't find mine in my tool box back home, which leads me to believe its packed up in storage...

Well, if you are interested...I'm trying to put together a yard day trip to Denver PnP with another friend of mine, perhaps we can all get together and make the drive over cheaper Closest PnP's that I know of around here, unless you count Andersons in Kearney (don't even get me started on their overpriced junk...)

The discount isn't huge, considering we are a warehousing distributor for Hella and our prices are already the lowest you'll find out there, but I can comfortably say that 5% is possible. Helps to offset the cost of shipping at least... Monstaru, shoot me a PM and I'll throw together a quote for ya I won't be able to get a final quote for ya until Monday morning, since we aren't in the shop on weekends and I can't access the inventory system until then to check availability, but I can spitball ya an idea. We should have these in stock though and ready to ship, they are one of our most popular items.

Will do John Any chance ya know if there are any of these cars around the local junkyards? Theres a few parts I'd like to get, a passenger side manual mirror being one of them (looks like this care never came with one...base model 80s cars lol)

Welp, looks like I'll be driving her til she dies...ran some seafoam thru the engine, and when I pulled the oil cap off while running, she's got a lot of blow by...Need to get my compression tester sent from back home to double check, but I suspect the rings are going out. And I'm not putting the money into rebuilding this motor. She'll be an A-B car and thats about it.

Not the EA82T, not familiar enough with it. But the EG33 IME was damn near indestructible, given the flogging it received from me If I swapped to anything EJ, it would have to be the EJ22. Sadly, I did have the EJ25D in both my wagons (both 97, one outback and one GT wagon, which was a $3000 mistake...never buy a used car from Philadelphia dealer lots kids...). For now though, I'm not even going to think about engine swaps...first things first I need to get the mechanicals fixed that are in the car

Picked her up about an hour and a half ago. She's certainly in rougher shape than I expected :/ Its definitely not a highway worthy car as it sits. When I fired it up I had to floor the gas to get her to run until she warmed up, and it still stalled out 5-6 times. She shakes like a tank in the front end above ~35 mph and has at least one wheel bearing in the front starting to grind/howl. Suspect it needs motor and tranny mounts. There is a vaccuum leak right behind the alternator, sounds like its coming from under the intake. Pulls hard to the right when I'm on the gas and wanders a bit. Needs brake work (either they need bled or I need a new booster, it wont hold vaccuum and I have to pump them 3-4 times to get a good pedal feel). The tail lights are busted up something fierce (one has a hole in it) and need replaced. Drivers side mirror has the glass duct taped in. She blew a lot of oil smoke from around the bell housing when I first got her fired up, and kept on doing it for a good 5 min or so, suspect its the main seal gasket. Also has a crack in the windshield running across the bottom below the wiper arms. If the front end didnt shake like a tank, she'd ride really nice. At low speeds the ride is excellent, she runs out nice once she's warm, and does alright considering. With some of the maintenance items its going to need, coupled with some major repairs, I'm looking probably another $500 into it to get it running and highway worthy. Edit: Oh, and the speedo doesn't work properly nor does the dome light...speedo only reads to 35 mph and doesn't start reading until I hit about 25-30. Suspect the cluster needs replaced...And the dome light wont turn off from what I'm told. And don't even get me started on the driver door window, it rolls down but needs some help. I suspect the crank handle needs replaced (stripped out and wont bite the crank)

Thanks for the info The V power plugs are standard copper plugs with a groove. I dont run platinum in any of my cars, not too convinced by all that hype lol. This is a fwd SPFI car. I'll throw some photos up tomorrow after I get back from picking up the car. As for oil filters I am quite partial to the OBosch mileage plus or the Purolator PureOne filters. I will cross reference the numbers you provided with their part numbers to see what filter to use. How about part numbers for the rest of the items (particularly fuel filter, PCV valve, and air filter)? John, Heading up to get it in T-8 hours cant wait! lol

Check/replace your thermostat, it sounds as if it may possibly be partially stuck. boil a pot of water on the stove, drop the thermostat in, and see if it opens. I believe it should open at 185* but am not 100% certain.

YMMV of course. I've never had an issue with reman Cardone products (in particular their alternators, water pumps, and the aforementioned brake calipers), and all of the ones I've purchased have been stamped Made in USA. Granted, give the choice I'd rather purchase new from the Cardone Select line but there isn't nearly as much available IME as there is for their remans. Then again, i also don't buy off the shelf from the chain stores much, usually resorting to Rockauto, and if I do buy off the shelf I go directly to wholesalers for white box stuff (API in particular). I also tend to support Cardone because they were a local company to me before I moved west. and I prefer to support local companies first and foremost Not unlike you, I don't use cheap parts on my vehicles either. I wouldn't consider Cardone to be cheap, their quality is quite good IMHO. Paired with the lifetime warranty vs the 12 mo/12k mile of most of the other parts manufacturers, my bid goes to Cardone. My second choice being Bosch units if I can't find a Cardone for my specific purposes. As for their brake calipers, unless their quality has gone downhill within the past 4-5 years since I last had to replace calipers, they were and remain to be some of the better semi loaded ones I've used...sure, the pads that come with them suck, but what do you expect from an off the shelf $5 set of semi metallic pads that come free with a $60 caliper? Nothing ya can't fix by getting better pads, they are cheap enough anymore...

As stated above, this is non interference. One thing to add when you drain the oil to see if there are metal flakes in it, take a magnet (an old car speaker magnet works great for this) and put it in the bottom of the pan. Any when you drain the oil, any metal flakes will stick to the magnet. A bit of metal in the oil is not uncommon, as over the time parts will wear down. I wouldn't be terribly concerned with that. However if you have massive chunks of metal or a lot of flaking, that is cause for concern. Rockauto is an excellent place for parts. Personally this is the only place I will buy my parts anymore (the 5% discount code on top of already cheap prices makes it work waiting an extra day or 2 to get the parts). And as mentioned above, make sure to get a water pump with a cast impeller, and one from a reputable manufacturer (for remans I prefer A-1 Cardone due to their lifetime warranty and being made in the USA. but willl also use Bosch or Gates pumps if not available. Gates is lifetime warranty as well, whereas Bosch is 12 mo/12k miles). Make sure to order the proper pulley style pump for your application (either pressed on pulley or bolt on, for our cars it should be a bolt on pulley). Rockauot lists a new Cardone Select waterpump (not reman'd) for $28 and a Bosch for ~$25 (depending on which one you need). Gates pump lists for $22 (for bolt on pulley). IME, all of them have cast metal impellers As for timing belt kits, I recommend getting the full component kit. which comes with the idlers, belts, and new tensioners. I also recommend replacing (at the very minimum) the camshaft seals at the same time, if not the crank seals as well if they have never been done before (or you don't know the maintenance history of your engine). Dayco and Gates make excellent kits, and there is even a Goodyear kit listed on Rockauto for $120. Personally I prefer the Dayco kits on a budget (rockauto lists DAYCO Part # 95299K1S which includes cam and crank seals in the kit for $90) but if $ isn't a factor I will go with a Goodyear gatorback or Gates Powergrip for extra peace of mind. (Gates being the first choice of the two, due to the lifetime warranty vs, Goodyear's 12 month warranty).

bump for part numbers

Hey guys and gals, just wanted to make a quick post and see if anyone here would be interested in Hella products. I work with one of the largest warehousing distributors on the east coast for Hella. We can supply you with all your lighting needs, from 550 fog/driving lamps (in all the current flavors) to 165mm E code and free form headlamp housings and conversion kits, even custom wiring harnesses built by hand in house using US made and sourced parts/wiring. If anyone is interested, please feel free to shoot me a PM. I am willing to offer a discount if the order is placed with me for any member of the forum I can put a custom quote together and get back to you usually within 1-2 business days. We also offer Sparco competition gear, and I am currently trying to find out if we can get 4x140 bolt pattern wheels from our supplier, Team Dynamics (one of the big names in the rally circuit) that would work on our cars. Thanks! -Brian