kevinrse
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Everything posted by kevinrse
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Pasting from my other thread for completeness / future Googlers.... It was the timing belt. I had a few loose ball bearings waiting for me when I pulled the timing belt cover off. I can wiggle one of the idlers with my hands; guessing they popped out of that one. I turned the timing belt along at least one full path using the crankshaft pulley. Never saw a hash mark line up on the top driver's side cog---closest mark was off by one as it came by. I pulled the pulley off again to get a look at the crankshaft cog, and it was off by two. Time to order that timing belt kit.
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Thanks again for good advice. Yeah I am gonna clean the hell out of it. Forgot to mention is a crack in driver's side plastic timing belt cover, probably from someone prying at the pulley in the past. Any suggested treatment? Some high-heat tape or epoxy product? Just replace?
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Thanks for the info Fairtaxforme. Literally 10 minutes after I posted, I saw a can of PB blaster on my way out the door and doused the back & front of the pulley. Came off like butter. Guess I should've tried that earlier. I had tried some WD-40, but PB is a better penetrant and I also used a whole lot because I was getting cranky. Ha! In case you're interested---I'll put a note on my other thread as well for completeness---It was definitely the timing belt. I had a few loose ball bearings waiting for me when I pulled the timing belt cover off. I can wiggle one of the idlers with my hands; guessing they popped out of that one. I turned the timing belt along at least one full path using the crankshaft pulley. Never saw a hash mark line up on the top driver's side cog---closest mark was off by one as it came by. I pulled the pulley off again to get a look at the crankshaft cog, and it was off by two. Time to order that timing belt kit...
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Howdy folks, Newbie here. I need to inspect my timing belt---suspected jumped a tooth... see earlier posts by me in the last couple of days if you're interested in the full saga. I removed radiator, accessory belts already. Last step before removing timing belt cover is the crankshaft pulley, and I don't know how to get it off. I began following this tutorial by MercedesDieselGuy on youtube He advocates a bit of a redneck method for loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt (bracing a breaker bar against the body and cranking the motor for a split-second). I applied WD-40 beforehand and followed his advice; it loosened up with no problem. (It was only later that I came across this thread where user Alias20035 said (s)he doesn't like that technique, but as far as I can tell I didn't bork it). I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt entirely, and the pulley itself stays in place. It rotates just fine (I'm using an old leather belt & vice-grips), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it to slide out. MercedesDieselGuy, in the youtube link above, recommends turning the pulley clockwise to align the hash mark with the "0" reading stamped on the timing belt cover. (Later in the vid he seems to change his mind; thinks that step may be unnecessary). In any case, I did that (using a white paint mark I found on the front face & grooves of the pulley) and it doesn't seem to help with yanking the pulley. The timing belt cover seems to be plastic---so there was nothing solid to brace against when I tried wiggling a prybar gently. Other notes: the grooves at the back of my pulley are banged up, a couple of chips, making me think previous owner &/or a sloppy mechanic had the same trouble I am having, and tried brute force. Finally, I used a small mirror and my headlamp to get a good look at the pulley's center hole. I can see a notch at the back of the pulley on one side; hard to tell if it's part of pulley or another component/bushing behind it. But if I slowly turn the pulley with my belt wrench while watching with the mirror, I can see the notch rotates with the pulley. Is that back notch the "crank key" referred to in the thread I linked above? Any advice on how to get this dang thing off? Is there a trick to it? Thank you!
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UPDATE Just finished a compression test on 3 out of 4 cylinders. (Ripped off part of the boot on the driver's side, rear plug---I believe that's cylinder 4. Argh. I'll be trying to get that plug out after this post). In the meantime, results. As I indicated above, my CEL code was reading misfire on cylinders 1 and 3 (passenger side). Cylinder 1 (front passenger): 90 psi Cylinder 2 (front driver): 190 psi Cylinder 3 (rear passenger): 80 psi I squirted some gear oil into plug sockets 1 & 3, as I've read to do elsewhere. Hard to know if I got it right since the sockets are deep and horizontal. But I'm assuming there isn't too much art to it. I was very liberal with amount of oil, just to be sure. There was no increase in compression after applying oil. :-( What should my next step be? Does this indicate exhaust valve &/or head gasket problems? Could it be a skipped tooth on my timing belt? Thanks again for all of your help!
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I am attempting a compression test on my 99 Legacy Outback. Only thing I need to figure out before getting started is: Where is the fuse or relay to disconnect my fuel pump? Unfortunately I don't have the Haynes manual for my vehicle. I've searched these forums and online, and been digging around my vehicle, and can't seem to find it. Hoping someone here knows. It isn't in the fuse box behind the battery, nor in the driver's side interior fuse box beneath the dash. No mention of it in the user's manual. I asked a clerk at Advance Auto who owns and works on a 2000 Subaru sedan, and she wasn't able to find it either. On hers, it was in the fuse box behind battery. Sorry for the newbie question; hopefully someone can help! Thanks.
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@grossgary, yeah you're right, I do want to wait for diagnosis before purchasing. A friend has compression test equipment, so hopefully can get a better idea what's going on tonight or tomorrow. I got more hopeful that it wasn't burned valves based on Fairtax4me's comments---we'll see though... Glad to know that the priciest timing kit isn't necessarily needed.
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I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks!
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Thanks all for the good advice! Love this forum. I just talked to a former mechanic friend who has a compression test kit he can lend me. I'll try the dark test tonight and attempt switching wires to start out.
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Do I need a new engine? What happens if I keep driving it? (Forgot to mention---definitely noticed loss of power today---but I mean it's still driving, for now). Do I risk making it worse if I keep driving it? Or should I make repair/replace #1 priority? HG = head gasket? Is there a problem with head gasket? Do you know that from the symptoms, or is it simply a possibility? Can I do valve work myself? Can I do head gasket work myself? Sorry if these are dumb questions. Just looking for more info. Newbie here. Thanks again.
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Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU
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Hi folks, New member here. Joined the other day in order to get started on research for a clutch replacement in my '99 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L (228,000 miles---purchased at 198,000). I've got a gearhead friend helping me with the repair in 3 weeks, and doing all the reading and Youtubing I can in the meantime. Seems like we'll be able to pull this off. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a clutch kit, but had a question about non-OEM kit quality. I was planning to just pick up the Exedy OEM kit (KSB04): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2392652&cc=1389405 However, a friend said it's very worthwhile to go ahead and grab a kit that contains a worn snout sleeve---also called PDM sleeves. I checked out the video here which is very good for describing the issue and its solution: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-transmission-housing-repair-kit/ Now, the sleeves on their own are pretty pricey at some suppliers, ballpark $150. That's on top of a clutch kit, which would be $140 or $150 for OEM at Ebay or Rock Auto (link above). On the other hand, there are some kits that include the sleeve, and my friend indicated that these are significantly cheaper in part because it's a different method of fabrication. Specifically, I'm looking at AMS Automotive part 15004R. Here's the link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1524032&cc=1389405 Questions: 1. Should I be overly concerned about the drastic difference between the price of fancy Six Star sleeves sold by specialty suppliers, and the ones included in kits like the AMS kit I linked above? 2. How is the quality of AMS clutch kits? They advertise "rigorous OEM spec" - but does that mean I'm guaranteed the same quality as an OEM Exedy kit? If there's any doubt, I would prefer to go with Exedy. I don't know where AMS kits are manufactured. Should I worry about this? I don't want this to give out after another 20,000 miles! Thank you. I'm happy to answer any follow-up questions if any of this is unclear. This will be my first clutch replacement so I'm learning a lot as I go.