shoebee2

14.2 to 14.5 v across posts at high idle is what I have always used.

Supporting the engine from the top is the BEST, but not only way. I've done it both ways. From the top use your cherry picker on a grapple point in the rear center. That also helps with reinstall like stat d above.

You either have a seriously bad battery, assuming it is really fully charged. Seems to me that if the battery were fully charged and you could drain in in 15 seconds you'd see smoke or smell ozon. You likely have a starter that is grounding internally, a really badly damages set of windings or brushes inside the starter. Draining a fully charged battery in that short of time is distributing a lot of amps through wiring not build to handle it. I have a 750 cca battery in my 97 lob. At 750 cca@12v discharge in 15 sec your looking at an an equivalent of 200v in heat. That'd fry your battery and anything close to it. Cold start You should be looking for is about a 300 and up amperage draw on the intial surge followed by a roughly 125 amp steady reading. (engine being cranked over and disabled where it will not start as you said yours won't start.) Use your voltmeter and ch can starter draw.

I was at the local youpullit yard looking for a purge solinoid. The lob wreck looked pretty good underneath so While I was at it I pulled the front and rear o2, cam and crank sensors and the coolest sensors because.......well........because they all looked pretty near new. They charged me 10 bucks for the the both o2 sensors. 5 dollars each for all of them actually. Now if I knew for sure I needed an o2 I'd still roll the dice with. 5 dollar wrecking yard part before I'd spend $80.00 on a new one. That's 75.00 worth of beer or only 5.00 worth of ah spoob.

This one is driving me nuts. I have been chasing a rough idle and intermittent stall problem The car would run fine while cold. Good power, no hesitation, steady idle. No cel's. Once at operating temp, temp gauge 1/2 way and stable, it would give the out of gas behavior. No codes. Just acted like it out of gas. Feathering the peddle a bit would bring the rpm up but still sputtering. pull over put it in park and idle is fine, revs up like normal. Put it in drive and hit gas either hard or soft and it dies. Let it cool down and limp it home. Drives just fine while cold so Im thinking it’s the tcs. Replaced tcs and cleaned maf while I was at it. That seemed to do it. I drove for about 3 miles and the sputtering started again. Same symptoms. No Codes! Let it cool down limp home. I cleaned throttle body, IAC valve, checked everywhere for vac leaks. Cleaned pvc valve. Ran it several times trying to get a code but none present or logged. Took it for a test drive and it ran fine. Drove 30 miles and no problems. Sweeeet. Stopped at gas station filler er up and started sputtering and died. Same behavior. I remember when I first noticed a rough idle the fuel tank was ¾ full and only began acting normally AFTER I had less than ½ a tank. Charcoal canister or purge valve seems likely but both parts are expensive. Anyone have this happen can verify for me? s​

I think Fairtax4me was using sarcasm. But then if you pulled as many engines as he has.....maybe not. Agree on finding the leak and just fixing it.

Ewww

Holy crap! Plasti-dip! Never thought of it. After watching a few YouTube videos though it looks like that will work really well. Sense the wheels are the two tone gold/silver limited ones it will take a little more work. But great idea!

The 98 lob limited has the alloy wheels. Before I bought it it had sat in a field for a few years sunk in the mud up to the axles. The wheels are horribly corroded, gold coating flaking off and electrolysis pitting all over. Generally icky looking. This car is the child units and I'm not buying new wheels, painting seems like a bad idea. The home DIY powder coating products look good but never tried one. Seems like a guy could get an old range from goodwill for the cooking...... Anyone try it?

Great choice. Very good automobile. But Be careful! Damn things breed when your not looking. You,say it'll only be this one......but it won't. I was young and naive once. Now? There's 4 of em and THEY JUST KEEP COMING.

Good forum thread with pictures n arrows over at nasic. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192583&page=4

Thanks for the replies. Which wifi adaptor do you use? I've looked into this for some time. My problem is I used to be a heavy mechanic and worked in dealerships mostly so a but spoiled. There's no way I'm even going to spend 500 on a scanner. There are open source options though. Openxc -distribution page here (http://openxcplatform.com ) is a really active software set that has Subaru support already. Unfortunately not for anything pre 05 as far as I can determine. From reading the boards I looks like you CAN get the codes from older models as long as they follow the specs which all cars sold in us market post '96 are supposed to. You would have to cross reference the codes read and create a definition file and include in the .config.xml file. That's a possibility. I found this on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAUNCH-X431-CRP123-OBD2-Diagnostic-Tool-Auto-Scanner-Engine-Transmission-ABS-SRS-/152003494554 That looks like it just might be the ticket. Looks to be a blatant ripoff of the older snap-on. This is the one I think I'm going to get. Looks like it does everything I want/need for a decent price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PYBZJO/ It's pc based but I have at least 10 laptops in various stages of disassembly and or modification so that's not a problem. Here is a partial listing of Subaru specific codes and functions you can view and manipulate using the software. Again as with openxc there are a few .config modifications necessary for older ecu cars. List of Subaru specific codes and systems you can access. http://www.palmerperformance.com/support/supported_vehicles/generic_pids.php Addition: Using the palmerperformance software you can graph performance curves, power bands, turbo boost and fuel bands etc etc. woot! Daddy gets a new toy,

I went to buy an inexpensive odb2 scanner. Inexpensive is relative and the one that works with my kids cars, the subarus, will not work with my Mercedes or the wife's Chrysler. So I am looking at getting an ODB TO USB link. They are inexpensive and support almost all vehicles via plugins. I e used the Detroit Diesel/Alison suit which is pc based. Understand that that is a full,feature seve al 1000$ product but something a bit less feature rich might be just the ticket. Amazon has has the ScanTool for 39.00. Not bad if it works. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4#customerReviews Do any of you use something like that? Advice, opinions?

As the nternals wear microscopic particles begin to collect in the fluid. This is normal and why you are advised to change the fluid every 33k or so. If you don't change fluid that particulate matter builds up causing accelerated ware. Once you e passed a certain percentage of particulate matter to fluid, and have begun to see signs of criticize ware, the additive particulate matter begins to act as a binding additive. To give you an example, you can buy fluid additives for high mileage transmissions to give you a few 1000 extra miles before it dies. Typically these fluids have pecan dust added to increase the frictional coefficient of the fluid. Friction is what allows the plates to bind to their viscous clutches. More grip, longer life for worn plates. Sooooooo to make a long story even longer...... You put brand new fluid in that has no particulate matter in suspension, you have just lost a lot of friction for worn parts. If you do change the fluid, and I would probably do so for two reasons, add a high mileage binder to replace the particulate matter your loosing with the fluid change. The reason I would change the fluid, and this is just my opinion and I don't know squat. Trans fluid and a viscous count. Just like eng oil and every other libricant. As it ages that count begins to break down. It doesn't break down completely but it does loose efficiency. It flows faster, gets thinner and is more prone to sledging under load and temperature. Some of the galleys and passages are excreamely small inside the valve body and depend on a specific viscous property for both flow AND pressure. The other reason I mentioned but it's important to know that once a synthetic, dex 3 is synthetic...all trains fluids are, begins to break down it will separate out paraffin (we say sludge). That will clog those very small passage ways. Not completely right away but partially making the entire situation worse due to starvation and cooling problems. Using an additive is better. Additives are no corrosive while increasing viscosity and fiction. Old metal and rubber particulate is adding grip but is also very corrosive.

Better unhappy than stranded! Unless it's my wife. If she's unhappy I want her stranded

Just did my own wheel bearing using the kit linked at the bottom. Cost: Seals: 7.43 outer 7.43 inner. Axle nut: 2.50 Timken bearing: 33.00 Harbor freight wheel bearing tool: 88.00, pick it up. At first I couldn't get the old bearing to move. I tool my mig welder and ran a bead around the inside. As the weld cools it will draw in very slightly, just enough in this case for it to break loose. Popped like a sum-bitch when it let go. Scared the bjezuses out of me. New one went in straight and smooth, same with seals. Whole process took about two hours. Piece of cake.

I first viewed your reply on my phone and the video did not show up. I am looking at it now on the pc and holy crap. That is exactly what the low whine/growl sounds like. Pulling the hub to replace bearing. I almost r & r'd the freaking trans for a wheel bearing. keeerist. I owe you a beer

25 dollar difference at safelight for heated. I've replaced many a windshield in otr trucks and heavy equipment, but I don't think I'm going to chance this. Safelight will r&r heated replacement for 280.00.

Good advice, Will do that in the morning. So having a front caliper partially hung for a month is unlikely to destroy the front diff? I'm just trying to wrap my head around It.

Child units lob has a nasty crack in the windshield. Oem lists this car as having come with a heated windshield option. I don't see any wires in the glass or wiring for connecting too. Is this marketing speak for "turn defroster on"? Did subi offer a heated windshield?

Sense it appears to be early - if it's the hg as seems likely - would now be a good time to add some Bar's or equivelant? I ran my 2.5 for another year after adding some. Note I caught it early.

so I think the starter works like this: the starter solenoid reacts to an excite signal when you turn your key. Power is sent to the starter solonoid where it tells the starter solonoid to engage. The starter solenoid is just a big magnetic switch that operates a fork attached to the drive gear. The drive gear is what actually engages the driven ring on the torque converter or flywheel. The solenoid pops out the drive gear-which engages the drive ring. At the same time full battery voltage is sent to the main starter motor. Wala, car starts. Release the key, power is cut to solenoid and a spring pulls drive gear away. There are only a few reasons for the behavior you describe that I can think of. The drive gear fork is corroded and the pivots it swings in are binding. Or the solenoid plate is sticking or broken etc. The spring that pulls the drive gear back when the solenoid releases could be broken or weak or gunked up so bad it cant travel freely. Either way having a reman starter is no guarantee of clean well working parts. Another possibility is heat. If the engine gets hot it can cause corrosion to buildup inside the fork pivot as well. Builds up over time, every 10th time or so you have to smack it to break things loose. I lived in Phoenix and heat failures of starters were reasonably common on other cars. I didn't own a subi then but heat and resistance is not model dependent. The relay/solenoid is hanging for some reason. Look at the ground wire on the top starter bolt mount. Loose, corrosion, damaged? Could be heat or broken/weak internals in the solenoid. I duno, I have had better luck with wrecking yard starters/alternators that were in good shape and OEM as well as cheaper in the bargain.

So the child unit said there was a weird sound coming from her car and it was pulling badly to the left. Pulling all the time. I asked her how long its been going on and she says, "I duno, maybe a month". A month she says. This is the lob limited that I recently (9 months ago) rebuilt the engine in and should have done the trans/diff while I was at it. Turns out I am glad I didnt. Long story short, I found the left front brake mostly seized up putting a constant drag on the left front rotor. There's yr pull. I yanked the caliper rotor pads etc. installed a rebuilt caliper and drove it. Good news, she no longer pulls to the left and stops straight as an arrow. Bad news the front diff/or perhaps its the trans, is whining like a 15 year old at a Bieber concert. Ahhh jeeeeze. Fluids are at appropriate levels. Trans fluid is almost black, varnished. not good. front diff fluid was mostly "ok looking". Some sparkles floating around but no chunks or pieces of bearings . Both front axles rotate freely with no noticeable grinding noises or resistance in either direction of rotation. I refilled the trans with old fluid to test. Jacked all 4 wheels off the ground and supported it in a mostly safe manner. Start er up, drop into drive and the right front, and both rears spin slightly. Left front just sits there, no movement or hesitation/jerking. If I give it some gas left front still motionless while other three spin with increasing speed as you would expect. once the trans shifts into 3rd the front left finally engages and the whine/growl is very pronounced. increases as wheel speed increases. Now I admit I know zero about transmissions and front diffs but it seems to me that the trans and the diff are toast. Opinions? Is there something I have missed or understand incorrectly? Is there an easy(er) fix I have not thought of? As luck has it I do happen to have a spare series tz102z2cba trans sitting in the shed. (doesn't everybody?) Thanks for any advice.

Update. Been busy so I just got back to the car last night. Pulled plugs, nice and dry, light gray coating, gap is okydoky. plug wires fine and firmly installed on plugs. Plugs were tight, no comp leaks. Overall systems check, there are no: fuel leaks, coolant leaks, oil leaks, vacuum leaks or incorrectly routed vacuum hoses. All wiring is tightly connected and correctly routed. Scratch head Put everything back together, fired it up. Starts first crank, pured like a kitten. runs for about 20 seconds at idle and shuts down. Houston - we have a fuel problem or...OBC. Possible that the timing jumped but not likely? Seems to me that a timing issue would manifest consistently. Bushwick - not I did not take the heads to a builder. I did have them surfaced and checked for cracks. Subaru does use bolt stretch in calculating torque limits. That's why you apply torque and not just tighten em down real good. Yes, they are torqued correctly. This ain't my first rodeo. Texan - Did not read codes. WIll do so this evening or Sunday. I was a little disgusted with the car.

I wish it was a wire. No, my guess is there is a cracked valve, head or block. I didn't have it checked because I was under the impression that it wasn't overheated severely. On disassembly it looked good. clear path where the HG was blown. #3 cylinder looked very slightly discoloured. And the exhaust valves for that cylinder were discovered as well. Not bad though. Just very slight. Will do a leakdown and comp test this evening when I get off work. The lob is actually a 2002 2.5L. My kids car is a 98. Brain fart. Not any difference.