shoebee2

I helped a friend with a headgasket replacement. Everything went like clockwork. I've done several of these. We replaced all the typical stuff, t-belt kit, water pump etc. hooked everything up and if fired right up. Ran it gently till up to temp, burped cooling system, fastened down breather. Fired if up again and drove about three miles to the store and back. Yep, we bought beer. Car sat for three maybe 4 hours. he went to start it up to drive home and it wpuldnt run. Starts up, sounds like crap, rough, missing. Does not smooth out at higher rpm. I have never seen this or heard of it happening. Only thing I could think of was jumped time but I checked and the timing is right. ANY ideas. I'm stumped.

Cold starts require a richer mixture than warm starts. A richer mixture will present increased U burned or partially burned fuel to the cat. The cat is less efficient when cold and more so below 0 deg. Smelling fuel under the above conditions could be considered normal providing that the odor dissipates as the engine warms. By all means ensure the fuel system is tight and no leaks are present. As stated above even seemingly minute droplets of raw fuel can cause a heavy fuel smell.

I will take neutral safety switch for 500 Alix. Sure sounds like a neutral safety switch problem to me. If the problem only happens when hot or gets worse, more frequent when hot then, ya, starter more likely.

Get an old plug. Get an old/cheap 16mm deep socket. 1/4" drive sockets will be thinnest but a craftsman 3/8" chrome socket will do. Take your old plug. Using either a cutoff tool or a file or grind 7 or 8 lines in the plug threads. The lines or grooves go from the bottom of the threads up. Your cutting across the threads. Make sure the lines are as straight as you can get them go as far,up the plug thread as you can. JB-weld the plug into your cheapO socket. Let dry.myou now have a thread chaser that will fit.

Thanks guys, got it handled. Went to napa bought a 10/1.25mm tap. Should have one anyway. Why is it that my tap n die set skips 10.125? I'm kind of new to subarus and japinese cars. Is that an uncommon size?

Top 2 bellhousing bolts thread into the eng case. Anyone know for a fact what the thread size is. I measure 10.125mm using a thread gauge. Part store "customer enabling specialist" says there is no such thread pitch/size. All I need is a helicoil (sp) not sure what size to get.

I did not get a reel but will in the future. Budget sucks right now and I hate buying crappy tools. By a tail I mean get a 3/8 NPT compression lock fitting on the end of your gun, add the hose using compression fitting. I'm probably butchering the description. Technical name is air tool air hose extension...ask the Google. You will see what I mean right away. I don't know if it's worth the price to jump to 1/2" line. Bulkier and less flexible in cold weather. Improved CFM but unless your gun is starved I wouldn't worry about it. If you run big stuff like a 3/4 gun or high CFM tools like a high speed 1/2 drill or big air hammer, tire gun etc, it might just be worth the loss in Line flex. Edit: the tail replaces the fitting on the gun itself.

Went to the local big doc store to grab some clamps. Walked by the clearance racks and there was a Dewalt 4.9 gal 200 psi compressor just a sitting there wearing a 75 dollar price tag. So, ya. I bought it. Display model, nothing wrong. Tossed in a cheap, 28.99 50' hose that seemed like,it may get work for light duty stuff. compressormis great but that hose is poop. Package lists 3/8 in 250 psi. Not much else. The hose is that nylon wrap PVC el-cheapo that seems to come with all the compressors these days. PROS: ummmmmm, I'll get back to you. CONS: brittle in the cold, will not ever relax and straighten out. Ever. At all. In the real cold like we have here in the winter it won't hardly bend. Internal Id is not 3/8ths of an inch. It is 1/4. OD is 1/2. Wtf? For those of us who use air tools the hose size is a big deal. 1/4 inch ID is going to reduce torque and speed. So where do you get "good air hose". Harbor Freight Amazon thesons What makes a good air hose? Layering. Flexible 100% rubber inner tube, flexible 100% rubber mid tube that is strengthened with nylon braid, not wrap, flexible 100%rubber outer or ware layer. All three layers are annealed at temperature and pressure to form a molecular level bond. Who makes good air Hose? Goodyear. Tekton (they buy from Goodyear?) I think goodyear has a patent on the annealing process is likely why you don't see knockoff brands. Goodyear air hose is made in Ohio not shengzu Provence. Cost: I ordered. 50' of hose from Amazon. With free shipping. Total was 67.99 US. Almost twice the price. But that hose will last your lifetime and not break unless you drop your subi on it. Also with an Actual 3/8ths" ID you will improve the,performance of your tools which makes you an even bigger stud when you rattle those spindle nuts off with a 3/8ths impact gun. Tip: put a two foot tail directly on your gun. Hook shop air to the tail. Keeps that big ol coupler away from your work. You won't believe the difference.

grossgary I hear ya man. He learned his lesson. If it had been me I would have shook my head and told myself to be less stupid next time. On the other hand, PG is not a place I will ever buy from because of this issue. Not that they charge outrageous shipping to the unwary but because there is no recourse. No way to complain or cancel an order. That in addition to a company policy of fleecing the unwary makes them thieves in my book. nuff said. In the larger scheme of things it is a pretty cheap lesson for a kid.

Sure, the price per item was good. Competitive. It's the outrageous shipping. Cost of shipping is determined by ....errrr....shipping companies with some markup for the vendor to cover handling. Places like parts geek don't have an inventory. They call supplier and supplier ships. It's a freakin racket. Not my circus, not my monkeys. I didn't order the stuff. My kid did and he learned a hard lesson. For him 30 dollars is a lot. That's not the point though. Places like parts geek take advantage of people and that pisses me off! Grrrrrrrrrr

FB series use chain? The one I helped a friend rebuild had belt driven cams.

3k sounds steep to me. Timing cover on the rear? Are they talking about the access plate? Plastic cover behind flexplate?

32 dollars to ship 2 inner fender wells. Rock Auto takes 8 dollars to ship same item. Parts geek will not accept phone calls, order cancelations or complaints. What a ripoff. POS operators like them should be put out of business. Buyer beware. Their prices seem good until you see the shipping added on. No way to change it. 30 DOLLARS, AMERICAN, PER ITEM! Freaking thugs.

Ya got a love anyone who can fix blown engine with JB! Red Green is nodding. If ya can't be handsome ya might as well be handy.

If the ear is broken clean you can fix it. Not recommended buuuuut...... Go buy 4 1/16" roll pins. Drill small holes 1/16" on each side of the bolthole. Try to space the drilling midway on each side. Clean the crap out of both the manafold and your drilled piece. Mix jb-weld as per instructions. Apply to both manafold pieces and roll pins. Carefully tap roll pins into drilled holes. Cut flush after Jb-weld has set. You r good to go. You but 4 pins because your likely to bend the first one.

Just finished Dropping a 2.5 in my sons legacy due to the same thing. The eng over heated, badly......idiot lights are worthless......on his way home from work. The drive was about 30 miles. Temp was -17 at the time but t had dropped into the -20+ windchill during parts of the day. I drove out to where the car was piped the hood and saw slush in the overflow. opened the rad cap, ice. The ol subi still started so we drove it the last mile home. Pulled the engine, put the spare parts n and off he went. Later that day I pulled the heads and there was ice in the galleys. Someone, no one seems to know who, added water sometime. Use good quality coolant and follow manufactures recomendations.

On the battery powered impacts, I love the idea and i have to admit that i havent tryed one in years. How long does a xharge last.

I was a diesel mechanic for 20+ years. Heavy equipment, locomotive engines, otr trucks. I own.....conservatively.....30K + in tools. Every one of my tools and the triple bay box is a Snap-On. Great tools and great box. I have had 4 feet of pipe and 250+ pounds leaning on my 3/4 drive ratchet which has the long handle.....another 4 feet......breaking a 2 3/8 final drive not loose on a Cat D10. Ok, so Snap-On would publicly cringe and secretly smile at that. They know how tools are used by mechanics and they are built to do THAT job. Never ever had a problem or failure with one of their tools that I didn't cause by abuse or stupidity. The absolute BEST tools hands down money can buy. Period. That said I would not pay 150 for a snap-on ratchet now or any snap-on tool at the truck price. Its just too damned much for the normal guy/girl. Craftsman sells good quality tools. Kobalt sells good quality tools. Grey Pneumatic sells, likely the best consumer grade sockets made. Will they last as long? Likely not if your a pro using them 10 hours a day. But if your working on your subi in the garage on the weekend? Hell yes they will. Its plug forged steel. It's not hard to make. You do have to be careful when buying inexpensive tools. SOme, ok most, are real pieces of sh_t and will get you and you car hurt. That 16 mm wrench breaks or stripes the shoulders off a nut and its 2" of skin and a likely broken knuckle. That spoob hurts a lot. And now you gota striped bolt. To help out those who might not know the difference here are some guidelines for inexpensive tool purchase. Notice I said inexpensive. You cannot buy a cheap tool and expect it to perform well. However you can buy inexpensive ones if you know what to look for. Air Tools: 3/8 and ½ impact gun, ¼” drill, die grinder/cutoff tool, blow nozzle. IR, Ingersoll Rand supplies Air tools for Lowes and Craftsman that I know of and I think home depot as well. Might be CP supplies home depot. Harbor fright is a crapshoot on the no branded air tools. Either way IMO IR has the best air tools at lowest prices. To my knowledge Snap-On is the ONLY tool maker left who makes their own air tools. The IR 2130 is rated at 550lbs to the hammer. That is less than comparable guns but it won’t break. The hammer in an impact is what transfers the force to the socket. My snap-on gun will deliver 800lbs and will rip your arm off and beat you with it. The hammer will not break. It cost 450.00 the IR costs 120.00 on amazon and 65-80 at Lowes. Battery driven impacts make me laugh. Some people like them though and for some jobs they work. Like, removing nail polish maybe. Impact sockets: Grey Pneumatic. This chinese company has adopted, under license,the Snap-On flank drive. I bought a full set of these for my kid and I can confirm that they are top quality and well priced. Their well fitted and tough. The steel is hot forged so its not brittle and won't explode when used with a quality impact gun like my Snap_on 1/2" gun. http://www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic/b/ref=bl_dp_s_web_3030022011?ie=UTF8&node=3030022011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Grey+Pneumatic Standard or chrome sockets: Craftsman or Stanley: You are actually getting MAC tools when you buy these. MAC is made by Stanley Tool Works and so are the usa craftsman tools. Screwdrivers: Snap-On. 8 piece set from snap-on costs 135 bux and they won't strip your screws. There is a difference. If you can't convince the wife that those screwdrivers are worth more than her birthday then Craftsman Extreme Grip Diamond Tips. Kobalt seems to be pretty good but I don’t own any. Wrenches: Snap-On. They are freaking expensive man! But they are worth the money. The tool is balanced. They are precision forged and they are the only wrench to incorporate posigrip that works. If spending 800 on a set of wrenches is out of the question then Lowes or Home depot store brand are all made by Stanley Works. Good quality and well made. Craftsman has several levels of wrench now. Home owner, prosumer and pro. The pro line is a good tool. It looks to me as though they are using the expired Snap-On patent, the normal craftsman wrench we are all used to seeing. Thick an chunky. I hate those things. They can be hard to get into places and tend to bite into the hand with their sharp edges. Good wrench though and less expensive than the pro level. The bargain wrench at sears is made in China. STAY AWAY! They will hurt you. Ratcheting wrench: Stanley. GearWrench is owned by Stanley. I’m not paying 20 dollars for the name. Same freaking wrench. Hex, Torx and other bits/drivers: Stanley or Craftsman. Toolbox and storage: Snap-On! Just kidding. I paid 6k for my box 15 years ago. A quick look shows the same box is still around 6k plus 4k for the top. But hey! if ya got the budget...... Kobalt, Lowes, sells a great toolbox. Home depot as well. Craftsman are good but unless you’re looking at the pro line they are not as deep making it hard to store longer tools neatly. For me that is important. I love my tools. No really…..love! And I want them all lined up nicely, perfectly aligned, like good little tools. And shiney. They have to be shiney. Electrical Equipment: I don't mess around here. It is too important to have the correct reading when tracing electrical problems. Fluke makes Meters that work. Snap-On makes the best test lights. What males a snap-on light better? The cable is 6' long and heavy duty with a nice big strong grounding clamp. Cable stays flexible when cold. <d>Metered torque devices. Or torque wrench.<\b> Man I have this totally awesome snap-on digital 1/2 drive torque wrench. Accurate and, as we used to say in the PNW, bomber built. Will meter 0 to 350 ft, 0 to 150 ip or the equivelant in nm. It really does it all. What, 450.00 American dollars is to many pesos? Ya, I hear ya. But I look at it this way, breaking or under torquing a head bolt can cost a whole lot more. Anyone with good expierence using the big box brands? 10 lb sledge hammer. Cut the handle to 8" or so, tape that puppy up with tennis racket tape. Bruhahahahaha that's a BFH you can get some persuasion with. Soft low hammer, 2lb is the one I use most often. These hammers are the ones made of impact polymer and filled with bee bees. Roll pin punch set, drift and crowfoot pry bars. If your going to be: prying, pulling or driving it with any force, and you know you will!- get good quality soft steel. Craftsman, Mac, snap-on etc all make good quality stricken and struck tools. You can buy cheep ones for one-offs but sooner or later that punch will send a nice hot sharp piece of schrapnal into your eye. Keep the ends dressed. Pliers. Vice grips, channel locks small to large. Several. Get the originals the f possible. I just hate rewarding companies who steal good ideas. Klein Tools Aligator Pliers. The jaws are convex and have opposing teeth.

Yep. There is a stop at the bottom of the travel. The one on mine is plastic.

whats the code? We're the plugs oil fouled? What did the plug electrode look like? Have you done a compression check? Maybe a vacuum line in the wrong place/not hooked up?

I got this lob for free so I can't complain to badly but there is no key fob so remote locks, start and security system are unavailable. Is a new key fob the only answer? What are me options for getting one? I was detailing the inside yesterday and noticed there is a 6 disc cd changer under the passenger seat. Score! How do you work it? Prolly need the key fob huh? Is there an online resource for users manuals? I'd hate to have to buy one. Is the security system worth messing around with to get it working? I don't have any experience with these at all. I can't imagine I would need one the way this car looks. Be one stupid thief to steal this car. But what the heck! Its there so I have to make it work or I'm going to loose sleep over it.

It's. A 14mm. And ya, that's how I tightened it when I went back together with this last one. Using a micro-turn shorty ratcheting wrench. Like these: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-9416-Metric-Master-Ratcheting/dp/B0002NYD1W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1432583709&sr=8-5&keywords=gearwrench

I'm saying I went from below all three times I've done it. You "should" be able,to get it from the top but it was easier for me to go from underneath. I slid back to just rear of the axel and you can see there is room. I had my cars on ramps so there was plenty of room under. However if you drop the starter you should be able to get a box end wrench on the stud nut if you want to go from the top.

Hips on the front of the car. Lay over engine. Smash head and right arm down as far as you can. Use a friend to cross their legs and shake their head as you sing twinkle twinkle lil star. After you stop laughing crawl back under, use a 12" or 10" extension with either a wobble socket or a universal. Your going from the rear and on top of the crossmember. Depending on the studs installation the studdmmight be sticking out from the nut too far to allow a shallow socket to get a grip. Use a 1/2 deep or a deep socket and adjust the ammount of extension as needed. Unless there is something custom in the way it will work. You just need to hold your lip right as my dad used to say. As far as lifting the eng/trains to get some room that's fine. Just make sure you put one or of the top bolts back in first.

One more suggestion that,I don't see here,is mark everything. Get a yellow paint pen and a roll of cheap masking tape. Wrap the tape,so you have 1" or so tail and write what and where. Takes a few extra seconds but in my cas anyway it saves hours or days.