shoebee2

#1. Compared to, oh say a duce and1/2, maybe. Compared to anyother 4x4 car? Oh wait, there wernt any other 4x4 cars. Correct me if im wrong but '72 leone was the first US available semmetrical 4wd. Took some getting used to and a different way of thinking.

The module for the downshift, usually located on the lower side of the tranny by the pan will cause this behavior. Lots,of times they get bunked up by a leaky trains pan. My experience with auto transmit is otr trucks and Alison transmissions. They all work pretty much the same. What you describe sounds like a valve body issue more that a control issue. Just hard shifting from 2nd to 1st points to modulator. If you have a spare tranny swap it out and see if it helps/makes it worse. Sometimes the pickup screen can get clogged by gunk in suck a way as to starve oil return during downshift. That will maintain pressure in the galleys when it should be bleeding off to allow shifting. Eventually the pressure overrides the clogged screen and, bam, shift. A lot of times having the tranny back flushed at a shop will take care of a lot,of weird shift issues.

Sticky valves happen just not very often. Out of balance? Care to expand on that? What's out of balance?

Interesting color. It's kind of burgandy in the sun. Black base but burgandy pearl? Was that a stock color?

Lol. Didn't notice that! Maybe the internet router sent that image through China.

Nope, Iowa.

Jdm engine: 900.00 Parts car: 200.00 Time: 3 days Stupid grin: priceless

Right fairtax, it's the "other one" that's got me bamboozled.

I figured it out. The right valve cover should have a vent. The one on the JDM engine does not. There is a cover where the vent should go. I swapped the cover for the vent. All good. I'm still stumped though on where the vacuum hose goes. There are two ports on the manifold, left side top. One goes to the "t". The other one is for the cruse according to the diagram. But where?

98 lob. There are also two 1/2" hoses off the air cleaner. The left side goes to the top of valve cover. Where does the right hose go? Am I missing a port?

Is there a CLEAR Diagram for vacuum hose routing somewhere? I searched the board but I'm still not getting it. Can someone point out where these lines go?

Slide under, 12" wobble extension 3/8 drive. If it's a good one, mine are snap-on you can put your 3/8 drive impact gun on it.

Yep #3. 1&4 on the right 2&3 on the left. I replaced the o-rings, spliced the new harness in. When I joined the doner harness to the old I went back to where the factory solder joines were located In The harness. That way I only had to cut one wire. Solder all splices, cover with dialectic grease , shrink tube and tape. New alagator wrap. More tape. Looks factory to me. Start er up. So far so good. Idle is rough but I haven't connected all the vacuum hoses correctly. Smooths out at 1500 or so. Runs good. Open garage door and pop it into r and back it into the driveway. Success!

It's a JDM swap. manifold from the old engine was removed by someone else. It never occurred to me to check the injector screws. No reason to loosen them. Manifold comes off pretty much as a unit.

Took the day off to finish up,the EGR bypass and get this lob out of my garage. Everything went smoothly thank in large part to the advice help here. Filled fluids, one last eyeball around and jump in start that baby up. Cranked three times and fired up. Yep. Smooth as silk. The ol man still has it. Easy as 1-2-3. In my mind I'm accepting a medal for being such an amazing mechanic and all around mans man. I'll probably have to beat the MILF's off with a bat cuz I'm such a stud. Then I notice the orange glow. Then I notice the flames. Then I'm running and screaming like a girl child into the kitchen for the fire extinguisher. Seconds later the entire front of the car is engulfed in flames. Hit it with the extinguisher twice and fire is out. Holy f_uck! No real damage done. Fire only lasted maybe 30 seconds but long enough to burn up some wiering and vacuum hoses. Looks like the only victim besides the vacuum hoses is the #4 injector harness. I've got a doner car so I. Covered. What didn't I check? The screws thhat secure the injectors into the cups. #4 both screws were loose. All others were nice n tight. I did say it starts right up right? Well, that's something.

Radio in and out, gauges, then nothing? Timing belt just changed. I'm thinking bad ground and loose or corroded alt excite cable? did the dash lights/ head lights get progressively dim as well?

80/20 valves bent. But, ya, I'd try it before I pulled it. It could happen.

Lol. I jumped,on to,tell you that I ended up sliding the spring clips out but still needed a lil red, you know, ammount of room. 1/16 maybe. I seriously considered my dremel buy reached for the angle grinder instead. Took a smidgen off the nut end of the stud, ran a die down to clean it up. Boom, done. What a bone headed mistake though, forgot to put the studs in in the first place. Thanks for the help. I was not pulling that block back out.

Adding to the above: Studs are always used where the necessary retaining force would exceed the ability of the material. Ie, aluminum head with limited depth area. So instead of " pulling the exhaust tight you are clamping it. That's from an engineer. Studs are used where access can be limited and the depth of the faster exceeds the available space. Like the bellhousing studs. Studs are used where heat and corrosion are likely to anneal the fastener to the retained surface. Studs generally have dissimilar thread patterns and length. Studs do not eat quiche.

Ya, 1 looks good

So the JDM engine did not come with studs on the bottom. Being in a hurry I forgot to install the studs off the old block before installing. I figured I would just slip them in when I noticed they weren't there. Of course they are about 1/4 " to long to fit in the hole with the axles in. I do not want,to pull the axles or the the engine back out. What are my options besides drinking?

I don't know man. I completely destroyed a 74 pinto trying to pull a few small dents out with one of those and a 12 pack of beer.

+1 on the rust. Coastal car will have problems with it. For 1100 though, if it runs and has decent interior/minimal rust, that's good find. At least,it would be around here.

Looks clean to me. You get it too clean and spoob starts leaking

I hate to do the me too thing but damn man. What,if your driving next to my wife and kids when that thing blows out on the freeway?