BlackCasio

I fixed the wire and it actually seems to run smoother. Not sure if it's just being inconsistent or if it actually helped but it seems to have helped. Now on another note, the car is running way too rich. It's kind of boggy when you first start it like it's being overloaded with gas, and it lets out a little burp every time I shut it off. Will a very small vacuum leak cause it to run that rich? Thanks

After going over it a little more I found a wire that was unplugged and figured out it was what went to the idle stop solenoid. It's broken off very clean on the solenoid itself so it wasn't noticeable. I read a few things after searching but it seems that it does different things on a lot of cars. Is that something that could cause it to run too rich or maybe stop the backfire when turning off?

Thanks for the response chompy. I tested it with starting fluid and found one bigger hose that was pretty hidden that made the rpms increase slightly, but I just changed all the gaskets on the carb so I know that's not the culprit. However it did start a ticking sound once I replaced the vacuum line earlier today. It sounds like it may need the valves adjusted which I've done on previous vehicles, but I'm thinking it could also be out of time? I adjusted the timing by ear because I was told timing lights don't work very well on older cars due to stretching. Ticking didn't seem to stop when I messed with it though...

Changed the last line and got the mixture screw to respond a little bit, but not like it should. If anyone in the Wilsonville/Portland area would be willing to come take a look at it I would greatly appreciate it and like I said before I'll pay for your gas or buy you beer or whatever you may want for your time and gas cost.

I've changed every vacuum line other than one because it looked new, but I guess it could be the culprit. Thanks, I'll get that taken care of and update with the results.

Got everything cleaned out and it still will not run smooth, and now when I rev it it backfires while the rpms wind down and since I bought it, it backfires once when turning off. I am completely stumped. I messed with the timing, adjusted idle speed, and adjusted mixture screw (which still does nothing when turned either way). It's quite a drive for you to come up here Gloyale, but if no one else in a closer proximity can then I'll pay for your gas to come check it out. I'm willing to try and get walked through something and I can post a video of it running if that would help, but I'm to the point where it's beyond my knowledge. Thanks all

Also, when oil was checked when buying, it was absolutely clean oil. And the reason I need someone to come here is its not registered or insured yet because it won't pass DEQ to get my tags.

I picked up this little 1600 DL Hatch about a month ago and have installed new CV's, a muffler, rebuilt the carb, and cleaned it up as best I can. After running for a couple minutes the rpm's like to jump up to about 2000 or more and once even up to 3500. Sometimes if I hit the gas it will go back down a bit but it still runs like crap the entire time. When I purchased it I checked all fluids and went over the essentials, and other than this running problem, it checked out fine. The other day I checked the oil and it turns out it has a bit of gas in it. Haven't changed the oil because I don't want to have it do the same thing again and be back where I started. I'm 90% sure its not the head gasket. It doesn't smoke other than a little puff on start up sometimes, the coolant is clean, and the oil isn't milky at all. The carb seems to be letting too much gas in, but the idle screw does absolutely nothing to change that and from what I can tell there is no separate fuel and air screws. I am totally stumped and would really appreciate any input or help if you're in the Portland area. I live in Wilsonville and would pay for your gas to come give it a once over if you think you'd be helpful. I'll answer any questions to the best of my knowledge. Thanks in advance all. -BC

Hello all, I'm new to owning Subaru's but thought this car would be a great starting point as I am very good at working on small carbureted engines. I picked this car up for $500 and you can probably see why. Its pretty dented up underneath and has a few dings on the body, but it drives straight, only has 132,000 miles on it and other than the carb needing a rebuild it runs like a top! Lots of power and smooth shifting through every gear. Its missing the front right CV so its gotta be driven in 4x4, its back right shock is broken and completely disconnected, the front right wheel needs camber adjusted (I was told replacing the CV would help with that), and it needs a lot of bushings replaced. I'll get more pictures soon when I clean it up a bit, its pretty muddy outside and dirty inside. I tried posting in a more suitable place for the topic but it wouldn't let me post, maybe because I am new? Anyway, I have 2 pictures to show a part on the rear suspension that connects the rear diff to the suspension. I'm not sure what the part or bushing would be called, so I was hoping someone could clear it up so I can get those ordered ASAP. I have a CV, shocks for the rear, and a carb rebuild kit on the way. I plan on ordering all new CV's and shocks all around, I just want to get this thing to the point of being road worthy before I dump too much money in it. Thanks in advance and if I should post somewhere else, can someone explain how?