Ratpick

You could replace needles as described by tacotravis, but I'd suggest leaving them in place and using slits. There's chance to damage/ destroy movement (guts of gauge) pulling pointers. "Stickers" that go over your best bet. I work at a gauge restoration shop, and modern gauges like yours are tricky to mess with and don't offer much, if any, parts or service support. We don't even touch modern Japanese gauges.

Haven't even messed with this yet, but found some good unbiased filter testing: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm Which does support Gloyale's comments. I have some other old intake tubes and think I can make a hybrid intake of sorts, and use my carb eo sticker.

I've heard that argument before about intake, but just can't jump on board til I prove it to myself. I took acceleration times and will make a comparison. I bought this intake, and looks like a nice combination of decent china quality and cheesy riceroni style. Also, it did not include CARB sticker! Ugh. Still waiting on reply about that

Yeah, what he said. Also, recheck all your line connections and make sure no drippy drip. As good n smart as I think I am, I was stumped for a few minutes during my brake bleeding on my recent work. It was just staying spongy. One of the hard lines I had apart needed to be just a lil tighter.

I agree with Twitch. Gopher it. Don't be afraid of the 2.5 head gasket scares. Swap to a 2.2 or 1.8? Won't it become a traffic hazard by not getting out of it's own way?

Yeah! I just went out and tightened up sway bar end of links, and it was quiet. I thought for sure it was tight after running up with the impact, but not so much. So main problem was me being an idiot. But maybe I'll see if I can bore out that end link sleeve for larger bolt or shim the existing one up to hole diameter or something so it's not a recurring issue. Thanks

Check/ test coil, wires and spark plugs. Check out injectors and plugs there. Likely something may be cracked or have bad connection that swells with heat to "cure" itself. It's different animal, but, I chased a random misfire problem on my Civic for a while that was poor connection of plugs on the injectors. Just a little tidbit to think about. Any other signs of head gasket problems on this car?

I put a Tribeca front sway bar and some new eBay sourced Perrin end links on my '98 Fozzter. I thought these links were listed for 98 type chassis, but they were too wide to go in control arm bracket. I cut them down to fit. Seemed like it all lined up and fit pretty well, but once driving you can hear them pop loose as it flexes. I crammed some washers in between end link and bracket and tightened down. Seemed good for a minute but then making noise again. Is it just nature of these links? Should I try to get torqued down more? Wanna trade end links? What do you think?

Before I blow money on something that doesn't fit or won't really pass smog, I wanted to ask. I know there's some of you that have to smog test their car on here. I think injen is the only other one I found that list specifically for this vehicle and carb exempt. From the pic it doesn't really look like it's made to go on a MAF, but often these are generic pics. http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=221228102829 I know it's not much work to just swap the intake back to stock once every two years. So maybe open to other options. But I like the idea of my car just staying how it is and being legal.

Just to chime in- I just did my 98 foz w pads from Subaru. They were like $68 or so and I paid wholesale cuz I work at an automotive type place. I didn't feel like running the risk of disappointment that happened a few times over on my Civic. Aftermarket pads and rotors gave me constant warpage/ vibration problems on that car, until I bought pads and rotors from Honda. Then all bueno. I considered some of the performance oriented pads from Hawk or EBC but figured my occasional spirited driving wouldn't warrant such hardware. Anyway, somewhat needless to say, the Subaru pads set in nicely, are quiet and feel good.

Also, in case anyone's curious, complete knuckle with drum setup is 32.6 lbs while complete knuckle with disc setup is 35.8 lbs. ...oh wait, just realized I didn't have the pads in the pile on the scale, so disc setup is a little more than that.

Where are you on this project SubaruJunkie? I have mine all apart waiting on new bearings to get pressed in the unknown-mileage disc knuckles. Installed other parts I had, struts and sway bar. Disconnecting the e-brake cables is indeed most pita part. Where they come through floor is just behind center console, under carpet. Center console, rear seat bottom and both front seats have to come out to give enough slack to lift carpet up. (The Legacy parts car just got cut, way quicker!) I'm not exactly sure on legacy rear seat, but on Forester it's held by the two obvious bolts on front side and then one hook in the middle, where the center of seat has to get pressed down and the front rotated up. Legacy is probably same or similar. Maybe hook on either side. The e-brake cables are about 3-4" longer on Legacy than Forester. Connection to brakes is different so definitely must be changed. (Krikey, I had some pics but it's saying too big to upload. Maybe I'll get them here later...)

I see what uniberp is saying. 99% of the time I won't be driving in a manner that the slight extra rear brake power will make a bit of difference. I admit, it's mostly just for flossin, representin, ballin, pimpin, you know. I just can't roll with my new 17" and see some brake drums behind there. But the reasonable part of me is pained by wanting to take off perfectly good brakes. Oh and btw my new garbage disposal is bitchin. Put a whole pigeon thru there.

I'm in the middle of this on my 98 Forester. It looks like the parking brake cables need to be swapped too. Which looks like the most PITA part. They connect up under center console? I have everything from an Outback to use. The master cylinder is same between drum and disc cars? The only change will be proportioning valve? (Well kind of in the middle, taken some apart and grabbed junkyard calipers, now replacing garbage disposal in kitchen...)

Thanks. But I was kind of hoping to find where this has been covered, so I can put together correct combo of resistors and switch. But simply cutting power to duty C solenoid will achieve full-four wheel drive? I'm getting close...