rallyruss

if I were going to open it up that far I would remove and inspect the pistons too. then install with new rings also. they dont cost that much. thats basically what a professional subaru rebuilder would do.

you will want one of these also to seal the cam housings to the head. I dont really recomend using it on the paper gaskets(intake) as it tends to spooge out the sides a bit. oh yeah no sealer on the exhaust flange gaskets either.

no sealant on HG. copper coat is the only thing that can be used there. still I feel dry is best. most gaskets would be fine with out sealant but if you really want then permatex aviation sealant works well with a gaskets.

I prefer stock as I have seen too many aftermarket ones fail (espically the new Accel coils) but if you chose to do so it is an internal resistor coil. is your coil bad? how did you test it?

my new RX was sticking too but it was at the pivoit for the pedal itself. a little Triflo and its working fine.

I have the same wheels. I use the long lugs with no problems. thats what came off the doner car too.

things to check. its a hot wire maf? if so make sure the little sensing element is clean. that can cause some nasty pining/lean conditions. if its the flaper type make sure its opening smoothly. better yet get a DVOM and check the signal. some other things. possibly the coolant temp shorted to ground? low fuel pressure? what presure regulator did you use when you swaped manifolds? air leak after MAF but before turbo? look for splits in the hose lines poped off.

looks ugly.:-\ if you want to tear it down the restof the way you would need to put the case halfs back together, remove the 14mm alen plugs(one is behind the crankcase breather cover) and the remove clips and slide out the pins. then you could see what it really looks like inside. or you can just scrap it and start over. mine runs good now. you should let me borrow your plates so I can go break in the new motor.

I must have made my description a little vauge last time. heres a step by step. 1. remove your battery. 2. look at the left front of the motor. up on top. 3. there is a bracket for you coolant pipe from the waterpump. 4. on that pipe bracket there should be the other end of the ground wire. 5. go to parts store and crimp/solder a new end on the wire. if your car is lifted you may need to just make a whole new ground as the motor does not sit in the stock location.

so true. and yes I always open bleeders when compressing pistons. its not so bad on the subes if you have a good caliper compressor. not just a pair of needle nose pliers. this applies mostly to ABS equiped cars but is just a good practice in general.

probably off 180. pop it off and try it the other way. they usually have a taper on the CV and splined shaft where they line up. hard to explain but it sounds like you are off.

usually the connector needs to be replaced. might have saved you a motor if you caught it sooner. I know you were battling that problem for a while. sucks.

if you have not let that much air into the system gravity bleeding is the simple way to do it by your self. step one fill resivoir step two open bleeder with a hose attached(or not) if fluid and bubbles come out your doing good. tap on the caliper to help and extra air to work its way out. close bleeder and move on to the next one. dont let the fluid in the resivoir run out! if that did not work then use the two person method. one person to hold pressure while the other opens the bleeder. no need to pump multiple times before holding one or two pumps is easyer on the master cyl.

well the new motor I built for the RX sounded really good mechanically but ran kinda crappy and had a check engine light on after(and before) replacement. I checked the code and it was a 21 coolant temp sensor circit. removed connector and inspected. nasty green corrosion in the temp sender and the connector. It actually crept up into the wiring too. I think just about every older fuel injected sube I have worked on has had this problem to some degree or another. this one just happened to be bad enough to set a code. I carfully cleanded the connections in the temp sender and replaced the harness connector(used a bosh fuel injector repair connector. motormite part # 85850) used dielectric grease and reassembled. code is gone and engine runs much better now. I only bother to bring this up because I have seen it so many times now and it does affect performance. there are tech articles on this also. the mounting position makes it really easy for moisture to acumilate in the connector. dielectric grease is a must on this connector. do it before you have a probelm if at all possible.

as long as you do not have to pass a visual inspection you can. I had a set up with a subspeed down pipe and a high flow cat before. it passed emissions but flowed much better. as they always say. do a search.

its your cataletic converter. on the EA82T its in two parts the one in the down pipe and the one under the car.

look in the retrofiting section. I highly recomend the TD04 if you really want a good matched turbo to the EA82T. the TD04 is a bit too small for the WRX but works just nicely on the EA82T. its the little things that will frustrate you when doing the conversion. some fabrication skills(welding) are verry helpfull when attempting this swap. our WRX wagon and my GL10 wagon are not all that different in power now. the GL10 is also running at higher than stock boost.

check engine lights are thrown for a component CIRCIT not an individual component. Good job finding the problem.

that wire is a major ground to the body. It runs from the left head by the coolant pipe for the radiator to the body near the battery tray(radiator support). when you are talking about positions in the engine compartment think of it as sitting in the drivers seat looking forward. and yes that may be your problem.

welcome to the board.

I will try to get a better shot tomarow of the wheels. they dont stick out past the fender though.

go to a real parts store or the dealer if you want the right molded hose. when removing the old ones DONT PULL on the fittings sticking out of the fire wall. that is your heater core and it is easily damaged. make a cut in the old hose(your gona chang it anyway) and peel it off the fitting. I have had good luch using regular 5/8 heater hose or silicone hose. I just zip tie it so the clutch linkage does not hit it. but thats on my wagon and RX. the XT may be different.

205/ 50/ 15 kuhmos keeps the speedo acurate(exact) and they are great tires in all conditions.

3 Run only two are street cars though 0 non running as of sunday

pics are in my gallery. but here is the original thread with pics from when I first picked the car up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46248 thanks all for the good words. Now If I only had more than a 1000 bucks to buy an RX and build a motor it would be really somthing special. I dont count the cost of parts leftover from old projects. Caleb, have I snatched the pebble yet?