rallyruss

the DP was hacked and gutted when I got it orginally. I then proceded to add the waste gate dump into the gutted cat. it sat around. I tried to give it away(Junkie) then tried to sell it but no takers so I fabed up a 2.5" outlet pipe out of spare parts. basically cost a little bit of welding wire and electricity. I think it will work ok. the relocated battery and FMIC were on the car when I bought it. the change over to silicone all coolant hoses was all me. it had a lightened flywheel and high performace clutch disc that was tossed in on the deal. soon to be sitting on the gold Enkeis that were also in the deal. along with 8 rallytires. Caleb would be proud of the budget to complete this car.

Oh I shure hope It is. and Thanks.

well I completed the motor and removed the old one with low compression. trasfered all the parts and droped it in a few days ago. today I got an idea to modify an old modified DP from my last RX for this car. the one that came with it was rattling a lot when it was running so I decided to slap together a cheapo down pipe. here are a few pics for you all to get a good laugh with. and yes the DP will bolt into the stock location. and the front and the new motor all installed and purring like a babby white seal. all coolant lines are now silicone(including that little 1/4" guy up front) now it sits and waits for RallyX season to start up again. its going to be fun. he he.

I was in but have to bow out as I have already assembled and installed the motor I wanted to do studs on. just curious, how did ARP rub you wrong? another question. how do you intend to make them? I know you dont want to give away your secrets but you need to dangle a bit more of a carrot in front of us. thanks Will

go to user control pannels and click on subscriptions. as for the hose I just happen to have some silicone hose that size. let me know if you are interested. I have heard of people using fuel line with decent results also.

Thats a good chunk outa the block there. I would make sure all is well with your fuel/spark/knock control when you get it back together. That is not normal. well if you want I already removed my RX motor, built up the new one I had all the parts for and droped it in. the old motor is just sitting on my engine stand getting in my way. I would like to keep it but I have too many projects going on at the same time. It has low compression with lots of blow by. I did not tear it down to inspect further. If you want it I could pull off the heads and take a look. PM me if interested. Maby you misunderstood me last time when I said it would be dirt cheap;) .

timing off? missing heat riser?

very interesting. I had a set of adjustable spring pearch KYBs that I put on my 85 gl 4wd wagon. looking at the current listings I dont see it. I am suspicious that the part# 343056 might be the ones as it states that it does not come with the spring pearch. but then you would need the spring pearch to make it work I guess. http://www.kyb.com

as always Shadow you have done your homework. I checked on http://www.redlineoil.com for more info and I agree you have picked the best redline fluid for our transmissions. good call sir.

I have been recomending Red line fluids for a long time now. glad to hear somone who agrees. the MTL might be feel evin smoother than the 75w90. my wagon has the 75w90 in it and still is stiff cold. my old RX (junkies) would consistantly grind 2nd gear when I got it. I changed it to MTL and within a week it was shifting smooth.

its federal 1" silicone heater hose. you can find it at heavy truck supply places. works great for the bypass.

the rough ride is normal for the honda springs. there are many different ones with diferent spring rates depending on what car they were from. I often take my car on long trips with a fully loaded vehicle. under those conditions the springs work excelent at maintaining ride height and control with a decent comfort Level. normal empty car driving was a bit rougher than most people like. I no longer run them because I did not want the increased ride height any longer. currently I have an odd ball threaded body adjustable coil over from an early Lancer mixed with a honda lowering spring. it rides better on the street with the exception of speed bumps. I also tried a cheapo coil over that fit on the stock type strut. It was ok untill it blew out in the middle of death vally. I did a ghetto fix and limped 300+ miles home. the 85-86? EA82 cars had the adjustable spring pearch with three settings. KYB sold them but I had a dificult time finding the correct part#. The Listings for subaru parts are horible. so after all that I still have not found the perfect set up for rear suspension at a reasonably low price. good luck

this is true and very well may be related to your problem. somthing to think about. some subes had a fuel pump relay others did not. The ones without rely on the transistor in the ECM to do the switching. I have had problems with this before on my old subes. report back with what you find.

I have to agree the stock sube starter is a very durable unit. the contacts do tend to wear out over time but thats about all that really wears out on them. I doubt that a EJ starter would fit or be worth the trouble. the mods you have already will make a stock starter last a long time. They tend to die sooner when used with poor batterys and cables.

did you verrify that its leaking out of the pump or the line as Caleb suggested??? I would hate to install a new pump and then have the leaky line still pee all over. just need to put the car on jackstands or ramps and crawl under it.

argh! that hurt my brain. ok lest make this a bit less complicated. I am not really shure what or how you were testing things from your description. first off it seems you can duplicate the problem easily. thats good. you need to verify where the problem is before going too deep. does it have spark(pull off the coil wire and see if it will spark to ground with a decent blue, 1/2" or greater arc. if its yellow or cannot jump far its a weak spark. if you have spark do you have fuel? pull off the fuel line and run it into a container. crank the motor over(dont forget to hook the coil wire back up) you shold get a decent amount of flow out of the line. dribbles dont count. If there was no spark then you first need to verify does coil recieve power. use a test light and check at the pos.+ post. if you have power then check the neg- side of the coil. when the engine is cranking you should see the test light flicker. that means the power is making it thru the coil and the distributor is "switching" or pulling the coil to ground and releasing to make spark. if you do these simple tests then you can isolate where to look for your problem. oh and Cougars are good with electrical you should listen to them. you may want to look up voltage drop testing also as thats what I think you were attempting to do with some of your tests. when done properly it is very helpfull. good luck and keep it simple.

sea foam works good. but oven cleaner is the best. It melts carbon deposits really well. old school hot tanks are bad for aluminum yes. Some of the newer heated sprayjet type units have better soaps that do not harm aluminum. I would talk to your machine shop and find out what they have.

my car runs .55 bar (aprox 8psi) in stock form. with the TD04 and wrx intercooler I have run at 1.05 bar (15 psi) but I do not leave it at that setting. only when running a Rally cross or other event. I keep it at stock for street use. it too easy for me to get in trouble with the boost cranked up. I also run the two row radiator and a oil cooler with synthetic oil.

very hard to tell without actually hearing it. by your description it sounds like it may be related to the engine/transmission mounts allowing somthing like the fan to hit the shroud when the engine shifts. also check the drive shafts for wear or debris rubbing on them.

I posted all the info I had after doing my install. I will look for that thread later. the rear bolt was the easyest thing to deal with in my opinion. the outlet cannot be reclocked up without fabricating a new wastegate mounting/linkage. It did not look like the best option to me so I left it in the stock position. I then used an elbow from a turbo mazda 626(ford probe) to connect to the stock wrx intercooler plumbing. my intercooler is mounted at a strange angle and does not look like the wrx set up but it alows good flow thru it and mild angles on most of the plumbing. the turbo intake ponts directly at the stock intake manifold. I used a silicone elbow from http://www.turbohoses.com (along with a few other needed parts form there) the coolant lines needed to be cut and slightly bent. then I used 1/2" silicone hose to connect it. the oil lines are real close to stock and were rather simple to bolt up. I needed to modify my throttle cable to make it fit. I hear alot of the problems i faced can be avoided if a spider intake is used. here is a pic of the installed tdo4 with intercooler. there are more pics in my gallery of some detailed parts. A few things that I have changed since this pic was taken and are of importance. first the removal of all PVC piping and instalation of mandrel bent and welded piping for the intake also bypass valve to intake hose fitting is all steel now. I have read that the chemicals that hot PVC piping gives off are bad for aluminum engine internals. there are also flaps to help guide air from my scoop into the intercooler now. and yes it runs better than the stock turbo espically if you raise the boost levels.

Timesert as stated earlier. I just finished installing all 18 of mine. it takes some patience because there are 4 steps to complete each hole. they fit great and should be much stronger than the stock threads. I am verry happy with the results as of now. I am building this motor on a low budget but I would hazard to guess that if someone were to get inserts sized at 7/16" then getting ARP head studs should be possible as well. just a thought for you big motor builders.

you can use an XT unit if you are willing to modify it a little. the mounting points are not quite the same and will require a small bracket to be fabricated on the adjustment side. the pully spacer needs to be machined down a bit. at least thats how it went on my wagon. the amperage is greater than the stock one but not as much as the XT6 unit. I think mine tested somewhere around 60 amps my stock unit was only about 45amps.

just awesome. nice job. I imagin it took a good long time to complete that. yeah the diameter is too big but who cares it looks great. should still have really good top end performance. Hmmm.... makes me want to try another attempt at a custom up pipe.

I found that springs from the front of certian hondas will lift the rear nicely. I just happen to have a set lying around too. I now have adjustable coil overs in the rear and no longer use them. let me know if you are interested. there were some old threads around from when I first discovered this.

That sucks Brian if you need I might have a rebuildable core EA82T soon. oh as for the engine swap it can be done here in CA. You can look at all the details for your self on the BAR website. Basically it has to be a motor from a newer vehicle(not a problem with an EJ22). You will need all the emissions stuff from the doner vehicle(not much on an EJ22) and last of all it needs to be inspected by a referee and givin a tag for future smog inspections. and yeah.. us guys who do the testing just might notice the difference;) oh yeah a high compression block will raise NOX keep that in mind.