rallyruss

you can give it back to me. I know how to fix cars. kind of a rule of thumb. when a car throws a ton of codes at you the components are probably not the problem. most likely common problem. like a bad ground, reference voltage shorted, open or somewhere in the middle. you have a volt meter now right? start checking voltages TPS, O2, ECT, MAF. you need to know whats good and whats not. the boot from the maf to the turbo is not split right? I know you modifed the air filter setup. quite often that puts stress on an already old and brittle intake boot. just some thoughts as I cant really diagnose what I cannot see.

the intercooler alone will help it out some. intercooler and TD04 work really well. over 10,000 miles on mine now I think.

I will give it a try. or at least throw some ideas at you. the timing AND fuel have both been pulled back hard. like as if ther is a knock or false knock detected. cold drivability hmm dont know. can you get any more peramiters when the event occurs? like o2, maf, or ect? I really dont know how your set up works so forgive me if I am off base. I have only done a small bit of work with a SDS efi system and it never paned out for me the way I wanted.

thats some carnage. I had a wheelbearing noise in my GL10 for over 40k miles and just changed all of them last month. the right rear had a big ol pit in the race. glad I did it after seeing that pic.

I never thought the day would come when so many people would agree on good testing procedures. I must be dreaming. well you are better informed and on the right track. good luck

I just dealt with this problem on my wagon so I can throw a few cents in here. yes there is a little bit of adjustment in the rear. yes its a pain. my problem was also related to my worn out rear bushings. after new bushings were installed and the alignment was set as close as I could guestimate. the rear end is looking good. some neg. camber but not too bad. same side to side. I used the superpro urathane bushings from WJM and they worked out real nice. not as dificult as some vehicles to change. you can have it aligned all you want but if you have bad bushings it will just change the instant you drive it away from the alignment shop.

the old pull the cable off the battery and it still runs test. please forget you ever learned that trick. it is a very poor test. for one thing it can ruin an ECM due to the voltage spike introduced into the electrical system when pulling the cable off. if you are running a stock Alternator with all those accesories it is most likely on its way out. they cannot handle much over the stock load. I think they are only rated at 45 amps. not much at all. sometimes they will still output some amperage but not enough. you need to have it load tested. also verify the ground and power connections are good still. look up how to perform voltage drop tests. it will help you out greatly.

if you can see hickups using an ohm metter then its bad. yes the car does see the hickups too and more than your ohm metter can show. the sample rate on most DVOMs is slower than the cars ECM.

optimas are great. when I used to work for a parts store we had very low comebacks on them. I have one thats almost 8 or 9 years old. still works. they dont act like regular batteries. when you kill them they can be brought back to life. I have seen it done mutiple times. but do NOT use the cars alt. to charge a completely dead Optima. they can suck up a lot of amperage. use a battery charger and hit with high amps for a while then trickle charge. repeat untill its tests good. interstate batteries are good too. last much longer than most. the kirkland batteries are a cheapo interstate. they dont hold up as good as the real interstate batts. both are manufactured by johnson controls. Deka is a decent battery if you can find them. aviod Exide. not long ago sears switched to Exide as its battery manufacture. quality dropped. dont know if they changed that yet. I agree if you have a lot of load on the system you will need a bigger alternator. I killed mine not long ago because I had too much load for it to handle. currently running an XT alt. as it puts out a little more amperage.

alright Buddy its daytme now is the car still puffing steam? and yeah if the car sits with nasty coolant in it for a while the gaskets can start to deteriorate. I think thats was one of the causes for the blown HG in the RX I just got. the guy let it sit for three years then got it running and started running it hard. poof we have steam in the crank case. you will need to pressure test the cooling system and/or do a compresion test to get a good idea if thats really the problem.

well I dont see what sube you are working on but for most of them I disconect the hoses that go from the motor to the body and mark them for reassemby if there is confusion as to where they might go. then when you pull the intake and carb off all the vac stuff comes off with it. I do that after removing the motor.

so what ever happened here? I need an insert and cannot locate the 11 x 1.25 if I cannot find it I will need to go with a 7/16 fine thread. as that is the closest size in standard to 11mm. edit: Caleb found inserts from http://www.timesert.com thanks

for short term use yes. long term use NO. heater hose will degrade when used around hydrocarbons over time(usually less than a year) fuel line for coolant may hold up. utility hose? you got me there. what is it? I usually try to use the best hoses/lines I can get my hands on. I have taken shortcuts before and both times the wrong hose failed... far from home(death vally in the middle of the day, Oakland at night). fortunately I was able to get it fixed enough to limp home each time but it would be wise to learn from my mistakes.

allright you asked for it. heres a big ol grill shot. I cannot get it straight on because its in the garage. the last guy was concerned about air flow I guess. I did not ask a lot of questions at the time because I did not want him to change his mind about the deal.

it will have valve stem seals in the kit. when you pull the motor you may notice other leaks that cam be fixed out of the car real easy like a rear main or oil pan ect. if you are pulling the heads you may want to get them checked by a machine shop or have a valve job done at the same time. I just dont like trying to work in a cramped spot in an uncomfotrable position if I can help it.

as best as I can figure the scoop is off an RX7. whatever it was had an aluminum hood. dont know what the lights came off of. VW? mabey like a dasher or somthing. the intercooler and hoses were from some mercedes. c230? not too sure what he said it was. I am most interested in how those Rally tires will grip in the dirt. ran into a slight problem on assembly of the motor. one head bolt thread is striped out in the block. I need to find an insert.. actually a full set of inserts would be best. delay of game.

I on the other hand find it simpler to work on the motor with it out of the car. I can get a sube motor out and back in the car in a reasonable time and find the convienience well worth it. you often find other things that need to be fixed when the motor is out and easily inspected.

PICs added. as you can see its a bit of a strange beast. it will be fun when its up and running. got the short block assembled yesterday and have most all the parts to complete it except the lightened flywheel I need to pick up on monday. next season I will be playing with the big boys in 4wd open class. woo hoo! I need a decent used TD04 wrx turbo if anyone knows where I can get one at a reasonable price

I agree that its best to make it in sections with flanges or slip joints to make install and removal easy. I too tack weld the parts together under the car then remove to complete the welds where I can get at it better. so there a no real time saving tricks that I know of just ways to make it a bit less dificult.

hey I am back in the EA82T building game I guess with the new rallyx RX. I am interested in studs if a source can be found. ARP was no help when I talked to them but you may have better luck. Will you know Im no flake. If you find them at a reasonable price im down. but I would need them soon as I need to get this car built to run.

yeah I am stoked about it. My partners at work wanted the car too. I just got to it first. no rear seat in the RX I will have to use my wagon to sleep in. I think she is warming up to the car. espically because I told her she could plan another vacation to where ever she wants. heck who needs money. I only have to work two jobs to help support all our hobbies/adventures. pics will come after its completely in my possesion right now its sitting at our shop.

just had to come here and show my excitment. a guy at a shop around the corner from ours also does rally /rallyX. he put together an RX for the rallyX that happened yesterday but killed the motor when out testruning it on friday. he got frustrated and wants it gone for the cost of parts he put on it. I looked at it today. its a white hatch like my last one. It has a FMICfrom a mercedes. rally tires and spare parts along with some other mods. it still runs but is puffing a lot of blow buy. I have a spare motor that I was waiting to drop into something. well I think somthing just came along. My wife is pissed. I will be sleeping in the dog house for a while. who knows I may put it up for grabs after I get it running good again. or sell off some of the other vehicles here.

FSM's still pop up her form time to time for sale. there are links to pdf FSMs around too. chiltons and haynes will get you buy in a pinch. I prefer the Haynes.

that really does not look too bad. I think you can get it to pass if you try. the timing alone will be a big factor there.

no I missed the race. I totally messed up. I showed up on sunday morning in willows. yep I was the only one there. I dont know how I got it in my head that the race was on sunday but thats what I thought. so to make up for it I went out into the hills and did some unoffical rallying in the area north east of clearlake. it was fun but just not the same as the rallyX.