rallyruss

cool glad to see some one else is up for it. you can regiser the day of the event if there is space. there is rarely any carnage so your car will probably live. you dont have to push it real hard if you dont want to. just drive within your comfort level. sorry but no stands to sit in. you may want to bring folding chairs to sit in and a sun shade such as an EZ up is really nice too. I might get one to use for the day. see you guys there.

im already signed up. see you there.

yeah I wish I could go. I was at the last one. (blue wagon, black wheels. street modified 4wd) I have a weding to attend that afternoon and doubt that my run group would be early enough to make it in time. it would be a good season to go for points. its lots of fun I highly recomend it.

Brian I did have the paperwork but it had to be turned in to the DMV to register it. DMV inspected the car and I had a brake/lamp inspection along with a smog. trust me you need to jump hoops and get inspections to make a salvaged title car legal. it cost me well over 300 dollars in fees ect. the reason why I asked if its a test only or test and repair is because a test and repair does not make its proffit off the smog checks as much as it does off the repairs it gets to make cars pass. I realize you may trust thiese guys but they are stretching the definition of the smog laws. and in a manner as to help themselvs not you. how many cars of that age have the original motor in them? its not a smog issue to install a rebuilt motor of the same type in a car. as for the intercooler mabey the newest edition of the ruels and regs states somthing different than what all the previous books. I dont have my new one yet. go to a test only shop next time. they do not make money from selling you repairs because they are not alowed to.

just saying I am in that one percent of people who would trust a fellow mechanic the same as a parts supplyer. It would be rational not to jump to conclusions.. no? I have worked in the supply part of the market and as a mechanic so I think I would see both sides of the debate. I am not trying to start any arguments. and have no hard feelings. your right its just a message board. and Hank is just trying to get his car fixed. I hope the used trans works out ok. Its too bad that the CCR unit was the wrong one. bottom line is his mechanic is on a deadline tring to get his car running for him and I hope he gets it done in time.

he needs to go back to school. in his blue book of smog info that he is required to know and have on hand it clearly states that intercoolers are exempt. my wagon passed with an intercooler. also the engine numbers do not have to match as long as it is the same type of motor as the car originally came with. the smog test/machine never actualy prompts the tech to check engine numbers. he must think that due to the intercooler then you must have a engine swap. obviously he is mistaken. I smoged that car fine as well as my cousin when he sold it to you. those two techs had no issue with the motor. Brian I will try to get more info for you. the tech in question just got paranoid and fliped out. as long as he did not run it you will be ok. did you go to a test only or test and repair shop?

I will keep my coments about CCR off the USMB. as for your satement about the mechanic being at fault more often than a rebuilder? well I have to take that personally. as an example. I have installed a few dealer supplied rebuilt trannys on both ford and GM trucks at work. I installed them as directed by the dealer info (cooler flushing. extra in line filters ect.) now I have had three fail and come back. they were covered under the dealers waranty as all three were determined to be defective by the dealership. parts and labor provided by them on the second transmission. now I would think a dealership would sell a quality rebuilt prouduct. It bothers my that they are not. at the end of the day the customer still thinks that the problem is my fault as I was the one who initally installed the reman part. so back off the mechanics. let the rebuilders take thier share of the blame if they in fact made a mistake.

no there are no codes stored. no real drivability issues either. The only reason I was testing it was for a class assignment involving graphing sensor data. its part of the new requirements for smog techs here. we have to show that we are capible of troubleshooting with all the proper equipment. long gone are the days of checking ohms on circits.

If I had the cash for them and could verify that it would work how I want it to I would be all over that deal.

I am positive about the pins. I checked all three to make sure what was what and that I had the correct reading. I understand what you mean though. If the XT6 is the same as the EA82T then I think we are on to the problem (or lack there of) It sucks that I only have one old school sube now to check.

thanks guys. keep the info coming. for all I know the motor could have been swaped with an XT turbo in the past. (it had 193,000 miles when I got it) according to the diagram(thank you Gary) and my thoughts on resistance. I am reading backwards. well I will wait for and actual verification from a known good car. Its been a long week my brain needs a rest.

yes storm I tend to agree with you as I have tried a few different combinations now. I am on another attempt right now. The GR2 is a good quality strut/shock/coilover(name changes depending on who you ask) but the dampening is too soft for any use that is harsher than regular street driving. I still am not pleased with the coil over sleeve kit deals. I guess if all you really care about is ride height then thats fine. if you want durability and performance then they are a poor choice in my opinion. so what is the solution? well I have somthing a little better in the rear right now but its still not perfect. I found a set of dampening adjustable, fully threaded coil overs on E Bay. they fit some early gen mitsu. EVO. combined with a stiffer spring set I had here at home.(styles I still have parts for you) I hade to make a few mods to fit them properly but they are in and have been tested now. handling is great on the street. no real complaints there(except speed bumps). in the dirt they really help me piviot around corners better as the understeer is almost completely gone. the problem is still lack of travle. I watched the vidio of the car from the last RallyX I ran and in the chunky stuff the rear cannot soake up the bumps well. so still waiting for the ultimate suspension on a budget to come along but progress has been made.

I need some one with a good meeter and an 82T(87-up hot wire type) to check the TPS signal for me on thier car. I was running some tests on my car and found the TPS signal to be Inverted. I expected to find the reading to start low(.5v aprox) and slope up to 4.5 or so like most normal throttle position sensors work. what I found was the exact opposite. my signal voltage is high at idle and drops as the throttle is opend. now the tech info I have says that this is not correct. I would really appreaciate if some one could help me out here. I would hate to change it only to find that its normal and the info is wrong.

yeah the car is all packed up ready to go. two years ago there was an early legacy that just kicked arse out there. do it. its fun.

I will be rallyXing at thunder hill this weekend.http://www.sfrscca.org/RallyX/ I know I posted this already but there may be openings for more drivers. its all good fun. its gona be my GL10 vs. a whole stack of WRXs

hey mark did you ever get that down pipe installed? if so how does it run? it takes a lot to do rally for real as I like to say. espically yhe time and cash you need to invest. if you (and your wife) are up for it. DO IT otherwise you will end up like me just rallyXing and watching WRC on the TV.

dont part out the red one thats kinda rare if I am not mistaken. but hey nice score. have fun. legacy turbo is still on my to do list.

dealers do not "deal" in older cars. you should find a local shop that can handle the task. and my local dealer has a horrible reputation among thye local sube freaks new and old. they all travle out of town to get decent service from Santa Cruz Subaru. if your car is more than 5 years old do not bother with the dealer your car is old news to them.

ok so if he did get a bill of sale that just means he paid for a untitled car. the previous owner has to fill out a form stating that he lost the title still to get a new title. Thats the only way to get a new title with out forgery. that may cost some too. the car will have at least 2 years of registration back fees and fines. the new owner will have to take care of that too according to Ca. law. then there is the matter of the car not running. its also an auto transmission that is known to fail. so worst case this car could cost up to 3 or 4 thousand dollars to make drivable depending on what work it needs done to make it go and keep it going. If im not mistasken you can find similar cars that run and are registered for around 1,000$. Or less if they want you to take care of smoging it(evin though its the sellers responsibility). pass on it unless you want it for parts. As stated there are no real valuable parts on it if you tried to part it out for cash. probably just the rear diff and the motor.

Will I want in on this. If you can make it happen im in. I will need one set of leading rod (18mm?) bushings rear control arm bushings front control arm bushings let me know. thanks Russ.

Im on buddys side here. no pink slip means no title. no title means who knows whats the real deal on the car. no start. not good. wrong tags on the car will land you in big trouble too if you got pulled over. If you just want it for parts fine. grab it. it sounds to me like you are looking for a car to drive. and this is not the one.

I did a bit of research before I installed my cooler. the best thing you can do is install the cooler with the inlet and outlet facing up. that way it will bleed out air and stay full when the car is shut off. I only have the Idiot light on the dash but it goes out instantly when the motor is started. I did check it with a guage when I first installed it and had no problem then either. just a side note the OEM subaru filter does not seal well on the adaptor I used. the wix, napa ect are just fine.

yeah I got the Idea that the typical I club 'drive' is not much more than a folow the guy infront of you like you stated. I posted over there a while back about mt. Hamilton runs. they had just gone on a leisurly day run up there and still ran into the local cop(who I know). he gave them a little lecture about no plates ect. and let them off with out any tickets. some of them complained about that. I said I would be willing to set up a night run with out problems from the police. it would be a bit more chalenging of a pace.... no responce. oh well I tried. the Rally to the rallyx still sounds like fun as it will be set up similar to a real rally. well I am registered and there are still openings. lets get out there and represent the old school Rally action. Tires Brian? you can use whatever. by the time 4wds get out there the dirt track is thrashed. I did it with dirt tires last time but am running street this time. not too worried about it.

what a savage. you pull that off and we all should be impressed. Brian- snow tires will put you in open 4wd. thats ok just dont plan on getting first place as a few Rally cars(you know the real kind) somtimes run in that class too. I have my wife mildly interested in running her WRX too. that might be fun to see. well it will be a little harsh as I need to work early sunday morning but I think I am going to register anyway. I saw on I club that there was a possible Rally to the Rallyx. that might be fun. dont think they had many takers though.

hank, I used to work at a parts store. on a verry rare ocasion we would send out a ECU for testing. it can be done. they are not verry acurate in my opinion and it usually costs close to the price of what a reman ECU would. thus those of us in the industry learn to determine when an ecu IS BAD bad looking at what it does on the car. under real conditions with all powers and grounds checked at the ecm first. also all outputs must be good (soilnoids ect. hint hint) as they are drivin by a transistor in the ECU and are checked fo voltage drops in order to set codes for thiese items. In my 10+ years of fixing cars I have only had one ECM actually need replacement. from our conversation I have an idea of what you are chasing. It needs to be looked at ON the car under normal conditions. Its usually somthing simple. a bad connection, bad solinoid, who knows. so if you meet some resistance about how/where to get an ecu tested please understand its not common to have one fail, really uncommon to send one out for testing. now you have noted that it had a new(reman) ECM installed right? they fired the shot gun at the ECM so they are responsible to find the real cause of your problem now too. egr solinoid? most troubleshooting charts in factory books end up at change ECM. we learn that we must have missed somthing if you got there. I hate those stupid charts though. you can waste hours trying to find out what common sense and past experience could have told you in no time at all with the proper test equipment. so as to answer the question. folowing the trouble tree in a factory book is the answer you are looking for.