rallyruss

got yer PM yeah. HC is basicaly an indicator of unburned fuel. the CO is what tells how the mixture is and it looks really good. HC can becaused by the dirty oil.... maby. ignition tune up... more likely. or another one that would be a bit more serious is low compression on a cyl. or two. I have seen this real recently on a corolla. car seemed to run real well with fresh oil, tuned up, NEW cat. it barely passed due to low compression on cyl 2 and 3. A new cat may help it thru the test but may not really fix it. good idea to let the owner keep the car fo now. its his/her job to get it to pass before selling. you know that one now. the car may have run differently if they messed with timing?

never tried it but I would guess the whole dist adj. range probably covers almost 30 degrees. you may have gone on a tooth off on one or both belts. the disty may have been installed incorrectly before? off a tooth there? pull the outer covers and verify that you got the belts on properly in relation to the timing belt mark on the flywheel. then check that the disty rotor is pointing at #1 when the motor is on #1 tdc. just check the basics first.

I bleive the XT has a slightly tighter ratio. did a swap for an old board member a while back. he researched it and decided it was a tighter ratio. just relaying what I have been told. I never verrified it my self.

nice. sounds like a good set up for power and reasonable sound. what do you need full boost under 3000 for? drag racing? rally and road racing are all high RPM action. just keep it revin. give Will a challenge. its good for him. think he kinda likes it.

pulling the right head is not so much the issue as reinstallng it in the car. so I can only imagin that the left would be a real pain as space is tight. all you need to do is rent a chery picker and pop it out. but if you happen to do it in the car let us know how you liked it and how long it took. I would guess you will not save any time. might actually take longer and leave you with an aching back and nuckles.

no I have not done the left(drivers side) and would never consider doing it in the car. the right side was bad enough. the motor is not that bad to pull. and if you do one side you should do the other too. pull it out and save yourself some frustration. are you sure its the head gasket and not the cam housing?

drove around a little today and it was as if nothing was up there. did not hit the freeway yet. that will really tell. it has no attachments yet. that may change how it sounds. the deflectors work good. I think I still have one off our old jetta. cant wait to thow my bike up there and hit the hills. I can get it all muddy and not worry about it now. or the snow boards while the last bit of snow lasts.

hmm never thought about noise. I have been running our snow boards on the factory cross bars for a while now with out a noise problem. the feet will have rubber on them too. as for paint I am thinkin about getting it powdercoated. I painted my bumper I made and it gets torn up every time I go thru snow dirt sand ect. Ill go put it on and drive over some speed bumps.

grr. stupid pics. its in the gallery now working on getting it here. bam!

well I was going to wait till it was done but am impatient. heres the new roof rack im working on.

really dont know for sure. I just know I dont get come backs with ruined lug nuts/studs like some of the other lazy @$$ mechanics I work with.

ummm ok. not quite sure how you found that out. dont know of any facts to back it up. please enlighten us if you ave some real info here. I see no reason why it would increase wear on internal components. shaking the car more definatly has an effect on the chassis I agree but motor/trany wear? need proof. never heard that before. tractors and othor heavy equipment often dont have rubber mounts guess they never heard this when they designed them.

nice! it would be nice to use that manifold on your turbo motor. the throtle cables are a pain with the stock one. as you and I both know. or swaparoo? hmm hard to say.

none! ok if you really think you need some use permatex aviation sealant. if all is clean and flat no sealant.

that makes me think about the first rally car I crewed for. it was a little RX7. the guy had a chain bolted to the motor and down to the chassis as a pitch stopper. the guys at the tech inspection loved it. but seriously that may work as long as you can get a decent weld on there. My method was to run two rods thru the mount and weld both ends in place. that only lasted a week or so. still holds the mount together but does not limit the movment.

ah so they are larger huh. dam that sucks. I have already messed around with welding the mounts(got my own welder:)) but the shake at idle with A/C on sucks. and yeah I did have the trans mount tied down for a while. that helped a little. well thanks for the input thats exacly what I needed to know.

you can clean it if you get it apart and back together in one piece. iv never tried my self as its easyer to just change out a bad TPS. I have a really good graphing meter that would test it real easy. if you want to get this old DP from me some day I would be happy to test it for you.

welcome aboard.

I can torque lug nuts rather acurately with out a torque wrench. but I feel much better if I use it. or at work we use torque sticks with our impact guns. its an idiot proof method to alow mechanics to use impact guns to tighten bolts without over torquing. if you have found a good torqu wrench for 30-40 bucks then grab it. the ones i'm use to cost close to 200$

caboobaroo is right on. thats the way to do it. but why? I mean thay dont get out of adjustment on thier own. usually the only reason to mess with it is if someone else screwed it up or you are changing one out. and no I never touched it on that car. what problem are you trying to chase down?

here is a stock EA82 mount. funny its only a few dollars less than the STI mount.

sorry thought the title of the thread would explain. I am considering using the STI motor mounts that are sold to fit 02 and up WRXs as an upgrade. they also sell a upgraded tranny mount and pitch stopper too. those may also be made to fit. right now I think I will stick with swaping the motor mounts.

ok I just read up on the troubles you have been having. well I am no expert on motor, trans, clutch, compatibility between EA81/82 motors and trannys. it would seem to me that you are trying to use some parts that just are not compatible with each other. did it run in this configuration before? if so what clutch parts were used then?

what is the trouble with the clutch? when you are bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel it is pinching the clutch disk in the middle. this pushes back on the pressue plate fingers on the inside and causing them to pull in like you explain is happening. I dont really see a problem with that as long as all components match and the flywheel is properly machined.

so I want new mounts on my wagon and have not found any options that really look good... untill now. ok short story to explain the train of thought. when driving my wifes WRX I cant stand the drive train slop you feel when getting on and off the throttle. I never have been able to accept that in car designs. my wagon has it a little bit but the WRX is bad. no there is nothing wrong with the car. I have felt the same thing in most all newer subarus I have driven(WRX, Forester, Legacy) so im looking at the STI mounts they sell to make people like me happy. and when looking at the pics of them it occurs to me that they look verry similar to the EA82 mounts I know so well. I doubt they are a bolt on as that would be way too easy. but I think they may me installable with some minor modifications. so Im thinking that I will order a set for the wifes car to see if she likes it or not. I can measure them before installing them. If any one is interested or has tried this let me know. any input would be helpfull