rallyruss

well if you really want to base it on a Rally car you will want stiffer springs and dampers. avoid going larger with the sway bars. gut the interior. add a cage. install undercarige protection. mud flaps. oh you need some nice seats with 5 pt harness. and of course rally tires. now the bad part is most all of this is going to be custom work($$$$) so you really need to decide just how rally you want it. do you just want to rallyX it? or really rally. I would recomend doing a rallyX first to see what its about.

fram wastes all the funds on advertising and makes up for it by putting out a crappy proudut. my fatherinlaw insists on using them because they are cheap. drives me crazy. yeah there is no question that fram is junk. just cut one open and see how its made compared to a wix or other Quality filter.

Shanon you never saw the car when I still had it did you? oh well Im glad Brian has taken it on as a little project. yeah Brian the stock rears were blown out so my boy Ed hooked me up with some new GR2s. keep workin on it. hey you fix that rear CV boot yet? It was needin some attention.

huh? no it plumbs in after MAF

mmm nope CO is a product of a rich mixture (or failed cat) HC is unburned fuel (Misfire) cats reduce both HC and CO but ony to a point.

RTV on a cork gasket is a bad idea. it never seems to work well. oh well too late for that now.

HG job huh? not too bad. needed tools- engine hoist and stand if you want to do it the easy way. if not you can figure out another way. 3/8" drive torque wrench is really helpfull to do the head bolts and others. basic tools. metric wrenches ratchets extensions ect. scrapers, gasket removers with a die grinder are helpfull. I would have a decent machine shop look at the heads maby resurface and do a valve job with new seals from your "kit". pulling the motor is really not that hard. basic things disconnect the harnesses by the batt. remove the clutch cable(if its a M/T) amd throttle cable. dont for get the hill holder if it has one. disconnect fuel lines and disty connections. after draining coolant I like to pull the radiator to prevent damage but its not needed. oh of course you disconnect all hoses to the motor. remove exhaust after soaking bolts with good penitrating fluid(you do have new manifold gaskets?) if it has A/C flop the compressor aside with out disconnecting the lines. (compressor has a bolt from the bottom that is a pain) if there is power steering disconect the hoses and pull the pump with the motor.(dont forget the hold downs on the right side of the motor for the lines) pull wires off Alt. and remve alt.(you did disconnect/remove the battery?) disconnect fuel canister hoses. pull motor out after unbolting the two bolts on the bottom and the dog bone up top along with the trany to motor bolts. it need to come up then forward. support the trans with a good flor jack.(car is on jack stands right?) remove intake manifold with all the crap still attached and set aside. remove P/S and all remaing brackets ect. I use duct tape to hold bolts with the brackets they belong to. remove V/C's and cam towers then the heads. Timing belts and disty have to come out/Off too. save your self some trouble and set the motor to TDC #1 or to the three slash timing mark. mark with paint the disty to case, rotor to disty and timing belt pullys. oil pan gasket along with the oil pump, crank seals, clutch, timing belts, water pump are all easy to do at this phase of your project. sealants. permatex ultra grey on the cam towers. HG dry. intake and other paper gaskets I like the permatex aviation sealant. oil pan gasket can go on dory or with a little bit of aviation sealant to help hold it in place. no silicone on it. you can use just straight ultra grey as a pan gasket but thats not how the motor came so most people dont do it that way. I probably missed lots of stuff but its not hard to figure out what needs to be done. good luck. If you dont have a FSM then get a Haynes manuel. you will want a book for torque specs ect.

hmm I have not found a need for a doggy divider in my car yet. the dog is spoiled. He kicks it in the back seat complaining about how the windows dont roll down all the way. I would like to get a doggy seat belt for him though. I have had a few emergency stops where he went flying into the back of the front seats. I do have a little bit of experience with dog dividers if thats really what you want to do. I used to work on cop cars. repairing at one point and building them at a differnt yard later. A police K9 unit has no back seat. they build a platform with grippy carpet back there so the dog can keep control while riding along. used a thick mesh for the windows and divider. they usually leave the cars running with A/C on for the dogs or parked in a nice cool spot with windows open. are there any specific details you are looking for? let me know. Singletrack- I like your rag top. bet the dags do to. My dog was crate trained when i got him but he never really liked it. now he has freedom of the house while we are gone. He lives with two cats and never gets in trouble at home. away from the house Is a different story. He has a tendancy to chase deer and get in brawls with other dogs so he stays ON leash 99% of the time.

I was running a sube speed DP with a wide "bell mouth" it actually seemed to make the over boost more noticable. I think in the stock configuration the waste gate dumping right into the turbo outlet acts as a break. if you make that flow better you break is gone and you are relying on the wastegates ability to dump enough exhust to slow the turbo down. the WRX turbos waste gate is almost twice the size as the stock unit on an EA82T. yeah full boost at 3000 RPM. I dont have a problem with that. only a couple hundred RPM off the stock unit form what the car did before. now it does start spooling up well before 2000 so you do have boost t low RPM. now maby its just me but if I want power out of a car I down shift and romp on it to use the higher end of the RPM band. I dont over rev. just keep RPM up there. In my opinion Its far worse to lug a motor than rev it up a bit. best of all I love the sound of the TD04. sounds like a real turbo.

you undersand there is an initiation involved in the TD04 club right? still working on the secret hand shake. keep on working on it

I dont really think that would give you much benifit. I highly recomend the overall performance of the TD04. espically the larger waste gate. its a bit of a pain to fit. but now that its done its worthwhile.

the screw is a fine adjustment for IDLE air control at the MAF same as the flaper style. I dont think making the car run richer at idle has any performance benifits. this is the wrong way to modify fuel delivery in my opinion. either keep your fuel system stock and working properly or go all out and set up a Mega Squirt or some other programable fuel system. engines that run too rich OR too lean dont last. O2 and coolant temp are inportant to keep your car running well if you have to disconnect/remove either to make you car run better there may be another problem.

wow 100 bucks for a K/N. I wolud pass on that too if I had to pay that. please note that this is on only one type of vehicle. some OE filters. espically Diesel filters are well made. I agree on that. In this case I agree with the guy that for a duramax maby a K/N is not the best choice. but this is no "unbiased report" and not all filters compare the same on every vehicle. I had a OE filter fail on my old RX once. never had that problem with a K/N. far more secure sealing area. not to mention it can handle some water from time to time.

205/50/r15 works just fine for me. I love the handling I now have. not so scarry in the hills like before. no more 13s.

that means a stock filter should cost 1.00$ to 2.00$? hmm... funny math here or somthing. yeah I will stick with the K/N still. nothing against a good stock type filter though. Its about preferance. K/N usually pays off in three washings for me.

lookin good. as for the stability at speed are you shure its not just the wider tires tracking funny on our wonderfull california roads? my new tires do that a little bit. espically in that groovy road surface you guys use up there by Sac. the front end was in real good shape when I had the car. but then again Its been a little while. still miss that little car.

yeah I have a couple thousand miles on mine now. I love it. no complaints about how it boosts. lag is just a little bit different. I still usually hit full boost by 3000rpm+/- a little. stock boost level that is right now. I am having dificulty getting my Saab APC boost control system to work properly and the junk jard does not any new Saabs in yet. I dont really like the way the WRX intercooler mounts up and dont feel its as efficient as my old VW 1.8 unit(for sale if any one wants it) but for now it does the job. my over boost condition that I used to experience with the stock turbo and all the flow related upgrades is all better now. some day I may get crazy and finish my second motor with a ball bearing unit and a front mount rather than a top mount.... yeah some day

the oil pan gasket usually will only leak if runing. the oil sits below the gasket level normaly. you will need to run it to find the leak. It is easy to do with the motor out(oil pan gasket) but I have done three in the car. you just need to lift the motor(undo the 2 lower engine mount bolts and raise it up a bit. a hoist works well for this but I have gotten creative with floor jacks and 2x4s. do a search as we just discuses to diferent ideas about oil pan gasket replacement.

its not too tricky. you just need to find lugs with a "ball" seat. dont waste your time with the before mentioned big chain stores. they wont know what a Ball seat lugnut is. I think the thread size is 12mm by 1.25. I know they exist because I used to sell them to Vw guys along with studs to get rid of the stupid stock lug bolts. dont install taper seat lugs as they may loosen and come off.

I assume you just want all stock for the OEM look? If a 78 Brat was not required to have a CAT you can put what ever you want on it as far as california emisions inspections is concerned. I have smoged multiple vehicles with Incomplete exhaust systems no problem. just needs the proper cats if required. ask subarujunkie about the exhaust on his car. I put it together in an afternoon using stock cats (2) and a pipe running out to the side in front of the rear wheel. passed no problem. now noise emissions. thats only an issue if you get pulled over for it. edit: there are plenty of aftermarket exhaust companys that sell bolt on OEM style exhaust if thats what you really want. usually more money than the Good muffler shop can do it for.

understood. I just see too many people looking at door stickers trying to guess what year the car really is. I used to sell auto parts. and you dont know how many times this was an issue. the under hood lable is really my first place to look. and if that fails I look it up by VIN.

turning rotors- machining them so you have a nice flat surface again and the brakes dont squeal, pull, shake ect.

I used some stuff called VHT wheel paint. worked really good. just need to clean em well first. Brian- I was not so concerned about the speedo off.(you can fix that if you want ) but the actual gear ratio will be a little different. slightly higher RPM to maintain the same speed. not much at all really. NVzeno its my fault the car got started down the not so stock road. but if I did not grab it and start fixin it up along with the guy who helped rescue it the car would be crushed by now. It was sent to the junk yard a few years back. so better a Modified sube than a flat sube huh?

:cool: nice Brian. you can still paint em. just takes some good masking. those tires look ok. 195/ 50/15 may actually be a tad bit shorter than the stock ones that are on there. not buy much though. ok lets se em on the RX. its gona handle like a champ!

well I would sa that you hopefully just have some air in the system. oterwise thats when the combustion pressures would be pushing into the cooling system the most. that is of course if you have a leaking head gasket. if you get the pressure tester and do a regular pressure test thats good. another one to consider is leaving the tester conected to the radiator and run the motor. rev it and see if presure climbs. dont let it get to high though. I have fixed the exact same problem you describe before. yeah it was a HG