rallyruss

Im not the best judge by pics alone but its hard to tell a ea81 wagon wheel (I have a bunch if you need) and ea82 apart in my opinion.

diggin up an oldie here. I have recieved a distributor in need or rebuilding finally thanks to a fellow board member. another Russ actually. my camera is not workng well But I have a pic with all the parts torn down. as you can see there is not a lot in there. first thing- soak all the screws with penitrating oil before removing and use a GOOD screwdriver. no not the old worn out wall mart special. to disassemble it you first remove the screws that hold the plate in place(top left on rag) remove the plate and then there is the rotor mounting(top of the rag) the screw is in the middle. remove it. next carefully rotate the sensor wheel untill it can be removed. the alignment piece that is under the sensor wheel comes out next. please note that the flat edge aligns with the hole in the sensor wheel base(top right of the rag) if you get this wrong on reassembly it may be impossible to set the timing. next remove the three longer screws holding the hall effect sensor in place along with the smaller screws holding the lower connector in the base of the distributor. disconect and remove hall effect sensor and wiring. now you will see the bearing with two screws holding it in place. remove the screws and the washer that sits on top of the bearing.(dont forget to use good penitrating oil!!). at this point you will need to drive the shaft out of the distributor and bearing. I like to install a spare fastener in the top of the shaft before driving it out to prevent damaging the top of the shaft. drive out the shaft using a small hammer and driver or a small press. they usually come off with little trouble. flip the shaft around and test the fit in the lower bushing. it should be a fairly snug fit but not binding. this bushing is usually still ok and can be reused but check it just in case. you now have it all torn down. clean it up and reassemble it in the reverse order. install a new bearing for sure. they really tend to wear out. I will try to get more pics of this one going back together once the new parts get here.

no Im not pickin up any more cars for a while. the subaru parts are getting harder to find for the older cars huh?

look out for the crappy understeering. that will be the biggest problem. take it a little easy and you might just get better times. just pick good lines. oh yeah have fun:D

whats up up there in oak town? my wagon is a little work horse. I am selling it but only because I need a commuter with better fuel mileage avoid the auto transmissions. I have done some rather dificult off road action with no low range in my turbo wagon but it does require a bit more skill than your average jeep TJ. no low end torque is the biggest problem. they do love to go fast on some fairly clear fire roads. If you go to the snow you will love it. turbo spoolin sideways action. GD hit the down sides rather well. I have never blown a head gaset but I try to keep the engine cool. bigger rad. oil cooler, intercooler ect. i also rally cross an RX (same motor). it does just fine as long as I dont let it get too hot.

that looks like an oddcomp creation. wacky stuff man.

sounds like you are on the right path. the trans dip stick is to check the tranny fluid level (and its the filler hole). use good quality GL5 gear oil.

this is true on many models. you did not state what motor it had. that would help. each one have quirks of thier own.

I saw a real nice one in kauai during our vacation there. tight little wagon if I do say so myself.

Had a wasted honda integra motor one time with an auto trans. I pulled the plugs and soaked the pistons with pen. oil. then I just started yanking back and forth on the crank pully till it started to rotate the motor it finally worked its way 360 deg. and I got all the flex plate bolts off ok.

vroooommm!!!...... pop!:-\ always a good time as long as its low buget huh Caleb?

you are correct WD40 is not the best kind of lube in general. I was not trying to put down your point. I just thought it migt be a little misleading in regards to the topic at hand. no biggie.

NOx is directly related to heat. overheating will definatly affect it. by the way they are required to place a fan in front of the car during testing. If they do not it may fail for NOx. there was a local shop that was failing cars by not using the fan then charging 50$ to "fix" it. they would then retest it with the fan and it would pass. you may also want to check the radiator. they tend to plug up on the inside and have the fins erode on the outside. good luck.

Like others stated its a hard thing to diagnose Via a sound clip. But it does sound a bit like a a/c clutch draging. turn on the A/C and see if the noise goes away when the clutch engauges. And no amount of spray lube (whatever the type) will fix a bad bearing. I assume you did all the tesnsioners/idlers with the T.belt and all belts ar good and tight?

this is verry true. A/C systems when properly serviced will last a long time with out problems. If you do it half arse you will just do it over and over again. the A/C tech yo uspoke with was dead on. you need to pull a vacume on the system before charging or it will never last. duel gauges are a must for those that understand how to read them. the sealer is really bad stuff. it not only kills auto A/C systems but also the recovery machines at A/C shops. you can decide what the best long term.

you must compress the spring a bit. if you have the right tool yes it can be done on the car. if not pull em off and do it.

hmm "invented open belts"? thats a but presumptuous there now mr. fox. I was running no covers on VW rabbits way back in the day because we thought it was "cool". it did however wear out the belts sooner than normal. Caleb has the most logical idea. I have no covers on my RallyX RX but thats because the crank pully would not come loose to fix a leaky waterpump the night before a race so out of desperation it broke the front cover off and fixed the leak. all the others have covers. so now here we go:horse: agaian

gas mileage:headbang: thats what its about now. I too am in the market for a justy or similar vehicle. nice ride and welcome to the subaru zoo.

I just might have one in my gasket stash. PM me if you are interested.

I think it was 5/8. I just took a look at the spare RX drivetrain I have and thats what it looks like to me. make sure to use some really good hose. heater hose will not cut it. fuel line may be iffy too. push lock or somthing of that nature might be ok.

be carefull. there is a noise insulator(ground) on the harness side of the o2 connector. if you ground out the 02 you will have some problems. otherwise yes it will work.

R/R = remove and replace two bolts no leak? I would not put any cash on that bet.

well you will get the old use the search answer. it is possible to swap in a EA82T or EJ motor. there are plenty of details to be worked out with either swap. usually its simpler to purchase a car that already has a turbo stock. it all depends on how much time you want to spend getting dirty and chasing down parts.

ouch thats the worst. well you can always try to JB weld a helicoil in place. I did it sucessfully once. that may have been just pure luck too. um bigger bolt? r/r the head is of course the right choice.

my 85 did the same thing. it turned out to be the pulse air injection system. two marbles stuffed in the hoses fixed that problem. I guess there is a reed valve of some kind in there that does not seal properly and allows the fresh air to get sucked into the exhaust on decel causing a backfire.