rallyruss

I got one without the elbow and was able to fab a little fitting for it and plumb it into the intake boot. not too hard to do. thanks to Caleb again for the valve.

charge light works directly off the alt. we used to "full field" test alt.s back in the day to verify if it was a bad alt. or wring problem at fault. that way you dont have to pull the alt. and take it in to be tested. look it up on line. Im sure some one else can describe the test better than I.

ball bearing turbo:slobber: um.... you need to get that installed and let us know how it runs SOON.

I would guess your tranny is shot but I am not a automatic expert at all. oh yeah welcome. hmm I would check all basic stuff like are drive shafts still attached is one spinning free for some reason? really doubt it. most likely bad trany. and a 86 2wd a/t wagon? it may be cheaper and better in the long run to buy a complete 4wd M/T wagon.

hmm well Im not to interested in wheeling my wagon too hard but i love going to Moab. that place is just awesome. I have much more exploreing to do there. I would be willing to help fix broken cars, spot, camp with you all if I could swing the time off. the drive is really not that bad . at least not from here. oh as for the beer. I have a suspicion that the beer served in the micro brew places is a tad stronger than 3.2. I talked with our server last time I was there and he could not say that it was stronger but the hint was there. it tased good. a little side note. while in the wonderfull land of NZD and AU I and my party noticed that most beer down there is under 4%. only a few exceptions. WTF mate? guess thats how they get away with drive thru liquor stores? we tried to tell them the wonders of malt liquor 40s, strong ales, ports, and all that is good beer. they sounded verry interested....espically in the 40oz.ers hmm just realized.. I have been out of beer for a few days. hijack over shopping time.

well I could be wrong but most all vehicles I have worked on rely on the light as a integral part of the charging system. no light or fuse for light no charge. as a side note it really pisses off the mechanic that changed the alt with no luck and then I come along and reinstall the missing fuse (no I did not remove it) . he had the harness all apart with almost half a day into it. ahh good times.

I would do it. spfi is the most simpe type of efi out there. I have gone thru worse EFI coversions before. how much do you want to spend $$$???

do it! yeah dump the carb. EFI is the only way to fly. I hated the carb on my gutless old 85 GL. If I knew more at that time I may have kept it and converted it. I have seen enough webers and delortos from the Days of VW tuning. I knew EFI was for me when I as a rookie fixed a fuel injected square back after many carb lovin VW guys had looked at it and failed.

wow this is almost like clock work. I see this thread once a month. same debate back and forth. i was took it serious at first but now I just dont care. run what ever you like. I have run both and will run both. the thing that determins what I run now is price. I just cant afford red line oil changes. If I could I would for sure. oh right. I almost forgot. If you think your motor will leak with the use of synthetic then dont use it. if you want a better oil and can pay for it please do its better stuff for sure. I have never seen or experienced this mystry synthetic leakage over many years of use in many different cars but some say it happens. decide for your self.

nope. not with out some really custom parts. and if you change injectors you WILL need programable fuel control. I assume you are just going to play with this and not actually rally? the reason why I say that is the stuff you are talking about will put you in a class with some real high dollar competitors. and if you were to really rally it you need to have it street legal. just trying to get an idea of what you really want to do.

12.66 is a good voltage for a fully charged batt. a little over is usually a residual surface charge. no big deal. alt. out put to charge the battery and run the vehicle should be between 13.5 and 14.5 +or- a little. it may drop lower if it cannot keep up with demand say at idle with too many loads on or a discharged batt. cougar is right about checking voltages at the back of the alt. you want to see what you have at the conecter and at the main power lead. yes the charge indicator out or missing can keep a alt. from charging. the testers at the parts stores are rather acurate. if it tested good there you have a wiring problem. may sound stupid but you checked the grounds to the body and the motor right? did you tranfer the fusible links to the bratt too there are two for the alt.

well I avoided this thread because of the title. just read most of it. oh well that was a bit of wasted time. let me jut state that I have a few good mods on my car. all things that work well together. nothing drastic. just good upgrades. now for my estimated HP.... hmm I just changed seats. so my seat of the pants-o-meter has to be recalibrated. the new tires are more gripy. its cold outside. well guess that gives me enough HP to climb the hills with a fully loaded car and not drop below 70 mph in 5th gear...so. I dont care how much hp I have! woah.. sorry had to get that out of my system. the car does what I want it to do. thats all that maters to me. yes its fun to drive with a bit more power than stock. how much more? dont know. wont guess. It just works.

well I recently installed a xt turbo alt. looks like the xt6 unit just lower amps. all i used was a small piece of flat bar with two holes drilled in it. used the stock alt bolt at the factory bracket with a nut on the back side. used a slightly longer bolt thru the bar into the alt. worked well. only one tip. when drilling the holes in the flat bar make them a little wider apart than you think they need to be and it will still work. to close together and your S.O.L.

if you decide to get rid of that ej18 let me know I am looking for one for a friend. guess that makes my vote for ej22 a bit biased huh?

well I am definately more confused now than I was before this thread started. so much conflicting info. the haynes book has another version. ok so I have drivin the car without the switch for the light hooked up for close to 30,000 miles. I haved tested to make sure that my system stays rich under boost with out any problems there. I have been workingon the Saab APC all morning and after work I will be able to test it. just a thought. while out working on the car I figured I would look for the second sensor for overboost protection. I could not find any thing that looked like a second pressure switch. I was disconecting the stock waste gate controls and figured mabey its built into that? dont know. normaly I am confident in understanding the function of my own car but this has me a bit confused. I thought I understood it but now I am not too sure. I will get back later tonight with APC results. :cool:

I agree with mudrat. wire it to an igniton switced source for safty reasons. dont just run it to a constaint hot source with a toggle switch. you really want to try and rember to turn it on/off every time? and have all the fuel pump load go thru a crappy little toggle switch? that may work for a while but not a good perminant solution. the old coil is a switched power source. just an idea.

you can clean the TB on the car. no need to remove it. there are come good spray produts out there just for that. the intake boot is a dealer item as far as I know. the last one I got was verry expensive too. but that was for my EA82T. injectors dont really come apart for cleaning. I have some ghetto cleaning/testing methods but the best way is to send them to a profesional and have them flow matched and cleaned. now for the real question. why do you want to do any of the above? is the car running poorly? somtimes a really dirty TB can cause some idle/off idle transition problems. we actually had a truck(dodge) come in that would NOT idle due to the dirty throttle body.

well I doubt its the last time but here we go. ok yes the MAF is the determining factor for fuel cut as far as I can tell. the boost switch is just for the stupid light. the waste gate control by MAF? hmm not to shure about that one. I will double check my facts before I call it though. now I have to say that with a properly matched turbo (TD04) I have a verry stable max boost level. the stock waste gate just is too small for a high flow intake and exhaust and that causes over boost. espically when cold or under a hard load. I no longer have this issue with a slightly larger turbo with a bigger waste gate. I am now gonig to experiment with boost control above stock. my Saab APC system is almost complete. I will be able to report back with results of that test soon. now to dispell the myth that fuel cut causes super lean mixtures at high RPM. there is only a slight amount of time that the engine May run lean due to fuel cut. then during fuel cut it pumps air only. this is a COOLING method on many newer cars(and some old cadillacs) due to the fact that its MPFI the injector is right next to the cylinder. when fuel stops the motor stops. I understand the fear of too much air meaning lean. It makes sense if there is still some fuel to burn. but under fuel cut there is no fuel. no burn. no lean. ok how to defeat it. my solution. push right to the edge of the fuel cut limit and be happy there with timing and boost both under control in case you run run lean for some reason both timing AND boost can be pulled back. the better solution? ask garner. programable fuel and spark control can be the answer. this is assuming that things are programed correctly. I highly respect those who dare to venture down this path. that is the best solution for you boost junkies. the rising rate fuel pressure regulators and other methods are mere bandaids in my opinion. they cannot control fuel/air/boost/timing like a true programed system for a specific motor. Will I support your desire to go fast. do what you need to get that extra boost. now I am interested how fuel cut effects a higher compresion turbo motor? Caleb? any thoughts?

I second this. mine died 300+ miles from home. acell will not waranty them either from what I hear.

this is absolutely true. its in the blue smog information book thatall smog techs are required to have. the first time I took it in for inspection the tech told me he could not do it because of the intercooler. I asked for his book and showed him the section regarding the exempt items. the second time it went in there were no questions at all. I cannot smog my own vehicles unfortunately because I am not registerd at a private shop. s'ko- yep as long as you make the motor look like and work like a CA equiped vehicle you are ok. now rember this may require differnet manifolds and ECU if there are too many differences. usually they are verry similar. look it up if you are not shure. I can help with figuring out the differnces between a federal and CA car if needed. if you have info on your non US motor that would be helpfull too. do the homework first.

good thread. let me make a few corrections for you s'ko. I am a certified state smog tech and a govt. fleet smog tech. as some have stated federal vehicles are 49 state cars and then there are Ca cars. tecnically you can only swap from ca into ca. But if you look up the required emmissions items for the year motor you are swaping and make sure your out of state/country motor has or can be retrofited to have the same stuff as a CA car you can sneak it through. you cannot use an industrial engine in a car. you CAN use a chevy motor in a toyota/ subaru/ hundai but as already stated you then need to get it inspected by a ref. station to get a lable. if say you swaped a EA82T into a carbed GL ea82 vehicle as long as you did a complete swap with all parts that effect emissions you can get it smoged normally.(I have a 22re in a orginal 22r toy truck as an example) you do NOT need to swap tranys with the motor this is espically true of M/T vehicles. some A/T vehicles may need to be done as a complete engine trans combo due to a combined ECM. you CAN swap in a diesel and get away from smog test perminantly as well as have the option of boidiesel made right here in the U.S.A. by us. but thats for another fourm. heres one of my favorites. addition of intercoolers is completely exempt. as a govt. fleet smog tech I can assure you govt vehicles get smog tested too. I do some of the testing and get stuck fixing the ones that fail.

thanks shawn, I used my old pully and shortened the spacer off the original alt. it was a serpentine belt on the xt. the hard part was getting the spacer shortened evenly. at first it ws a bit wobbly.had to reshape it a few times. oh yeah and the brackets do not line up the same. the XT alt was actually smaller and needed an extension to bolt it to the adjuster side. gotta keep my eyes open for xt6 stuff. I have only seen one at the junk yards here.

ok this is what i found. old alt was running at 45 amps before failure. the new one tested at 60 amps today. that was of an 86 xt turbo internal fan unit. I am still able to pull enough load at idle to pull the voltage down to battery level. this will work for now but will need to go biger soon. thanks for the input guys.

my alt. died while wife was driving it home from work. swaped a battery to limp it home. today went to wrecking yard and founds a XT turbo Alt. grabed it and made a small bracket to install it and a shortened pully spacer. seems to charge ok now but does anyone know what they are rated at as far as amp output? I know I was stressing the old stock one with the sterio equipment and fog lights. I want to make sure this one will hold up better. thanks in advance for any info.

Ok I will take a few shots in the dark. You answer skip by saying that there is no smoke/wet plugs indicating its running way rich. so I doubt its needle and seat. I have not touched webers for almost 10 years now thankfully. but when I did they were quiet often had pluged jets in a situation like this. this was when I worked at a VW shop so similar stuff. now I understand you have tried to clear the jets with carb spray. at this point you may need to do a complete tear down and blow the pasages out with a rubber tiped air gun. but before you do that. check somthing for me. If you still have a EGR valve on there and it gets a bit of carbon stuck under the seat holding it open you will never idle proper no matter what you do. the sucking noise sounds normal to me. carbs suck.:-p good luck hope that helps some.