rallyruss

I too have heard good things about the magnacore. I make an exception for that one brand. hmm cant remember for sure If I just did the plugs, or cap rotor too. I think it looked good so I let it be. just did plugs.

yeah brakeclean is just fine. the ngk wires that are on it are going to be better than any "high performance" wire such as accel. that set is a bit old but I would use the same type if you want to change em. they are constructed from far better quality and fitting material than most wires. I have fixed too many ignition problems on cars with aftermarket performance wires.

if I rember correctly there is no fuel pump relay. it is run right off the ECM. I assume it was a carbed model? not sure exactly how the EFI ones work yet. some have a relay some dont. you may want to bypass the factory wiring and run it to your own Ign + source. evin better if you used a oil pressure switch as a safety. and No to the best of my knowlege the FP and sending unit are completely unrelated.

that sucks. It never did that to me. that fuel pump is fairly new dont think thats it. the TPS could give you a probelm like that. may sound silly but EGR can give you probems like that too. try disconecting and pluging the egr vac/press line. my wagon used to do that hesitation thing too. I did a lot of stuff to try and fix it. I think I decided that it was sucking air in at the maf boot by the turbo. made it run a bit lean. another easy thing is to clean the maf. the hot wire maf like yours can get crap on it and throw off the readings. I have had that happen too. car ran like crap.

to all

hey I could be wrong. I just went off the diagram I had for a stock saab. I had dificultys with it making noise. I guess that was a problem on the early saabs too. I read about some updated model. I tried another one off a vw 1.8T too. It was the same on the outside but looked a little nicer inside.

Drcrazy- I like your set up. looks good. I have to argue that the bypass valve is designed to be installed the other way around. as you have yours you may experience boost leakage. the spring is required to hold the boost pressure that way. if you turn it around the boost will be held by the valve seat.

fair enough. no hard feelings. like I said I did a poor job answering the question in the begining. as for opinons they are like... well you know.

I suppose I was a bit vauge there. sorry. due to the baffles and othor supporst in the center section of case you cannot just split case and drop the crank,rods,andpistons out the middle. old vws did come appart more like that. I was only trying to state that just pushing the pistons out the top with the lower end assembled is not the proper way to do it. It may work for some and thats fine. I just dont think its a good method to recomend as a general practice.

the old cork gaskets get rock hard and just dont seal well ein if you retighten the bolts. if the pan gets deformed you can use a socket and chunk of wood to tap down the high spots around the bolt holes. another trick I have used is appying just straight ultra grey permatex to the pan and bolting it up. works really well. thats how many other cars come from the factory.

ok I suppose its possible but is definatly not the intended way to tear down a motor. it would alow the rods to dragup and down the cyl bore(not good) and why would you really be pulling pistons without doing the rest of the lower end? so I stand corrected... kind of.. I would still pull the case apart and do it right.

simple answer. they dont come out the top of the block. long answer. you pull the 14mm allen plugs and take the wrist pin clips and pins out, split case open. push out pistons.

dont worry about the little diaphram thingy Its probably not working any more. they seem fail alot. check this old stuff out http://users.adelphia.net/~oddcomp/turboroo.htm thats my old set up might give you an idea what to do. dont forget you can take pipe to a good muffler shop and the can expand or shrink it for you at the ends to make adaptors.

bov? no bypass valve. yes thats the one I was telling you about. yeah it will work. disable the BPV on the EA82T? I dont get it. stock EA82Ts like yours have no bypass only the little throttle return diaphram. run the vac line to the same source as your boost/vac gauge I will try to find the pic from when I had one of those on my car but the one oposite the vac line goes to the intake hose before the turbo and after the maf. the one that comes out the side goes to the pressure side before the throttle body.(thats why I gave you that metal pipe with the nipple on it)

skip may be correct about the source of your leak not being the oil pan gasket. I would clean it really good with brake clean and run it to make sure where its from. yeah the oil pan job kind of sucks in the vehicle. I have done it before with out a hoist and more recently with a hoist. with out was a pain. with is better but you have less room to as for jack stand points I usually use the mounting points for the support rods that run up to the control arm (forgot the technical name). I notice you dont live too far from me. if you need help or an enging hoist let me know. I have torn into a good share of EA82 motors and may be able to lend a hand.

welcome. yes I belive it to be possible and has been done by some of our members. I too am in the market for a bigger alt. as well. 45 amps just isnt doin it any more. I will be going to the JY tomarow to see what I can see. If I find something cool I will share.

I dont recal the charicteristicts of the vf22 turbo off hand .but just because a turbos bigger does not mean it will not make boost. as for the WRX TD04 turbo on an EA82T. I find it to work much better than the stock unit. lag difference is minimal. not enough to really notice in day to day driving. I prefer the drivability of the TD04 over the stock unit by far. the only other mods I have are rather mild. some day I may be looking for another larger turbo with ceramic ball bearings. that reduces lag and alows you to run a bigger turbo. and now that I have my set up for the TD04 those will be almost bolt on items. but that can wait untill there are some other more important fuel control items in place and a solid lower end built for it. to answer the original question. I have to say Calebz has most all of it. there are some smaller issues that can be a real pain. what ever turbo you select try to find one that can be clocked easily and be prepaired to do some cut and weld action to make it fit to the exhaust.

well I just made it home. wow that was a long drive Art- I went down and rode at mt Ashland on monday. beutiful day, no lines, cheap and best of all lots of snow only about a day old on top:cool: that was great. well on my way there I was able to stop and swap parts with Mark XSNRG. great guy. hooked me up with a few extras too. his fleet is huge! you guys need parts give him a shout he probably has it. Thanks again Mark. made the ride down the curvy roads nice. Oddcomp keep plugin along on your little sleaper. I cant wait till you have it done. oh yeah was it just me or did your town have just a ton of cops? seems like I saw over 10 that day just cruising around. well I need to go do some work on the car. it needs an oil change now and I think the Alt. is about to die on me. too much bumpin the tunes with the fog light on I guess. I think I have a broken motor mount again too. too much rompin on it. Well I hope to meet some you that I missed another time. just not enough time in this trip. Art when you are ready to go to Tahoe let me know I will go with you for sure. NVzeno I plan to come partake in your snow as soon as I can. I still have tomarow off.

hey all I made it up here. got a quick visit with junkie in as i droped him a few things. crazy drive over the passes with lots of snow coming down. saw a few wrecks. too bad things did not work out with the boarding Art. the snow was rather crappy though. lots of rocks and ice. still goling to try to hit some some more on the way down home. They got 2 to 5 feet the night I was driving up here back at Taho. we went out in Seattle last night for new years. had a good time and watched the fire works off the needle at midnight. there was a white rx with stock wheels just like the one I used to have(now junkies) with driving lights. it was parked across from the Baltic room where we were hanging out. mabey one of us here on usmb? ok gotta run not my computer. hope to see more of you guys soon.

thats sounds great all. Rob and Qman- mabey we could hit you guys up on our way back from the hills? Art- cool cool. you are the local so I trust your advice. keep me posted on this little day run in the snow. We may be a bit tired from bombing up there in one long drive the day before but I hope to have enough energy to meet people snow board and see some new places. My wife is off to hit the slopes tomarow. just got fresh snow. but I have to work. stupid Job.

lookin good. lots better than my home made fiberglass scoop.

thats a friggin great deal. I would jump on it if I were you. new from the dealer is outragous. I would say bore it and buy Mcbrats pistons and rings.

I would bore if you plan on keeping it for a while. or look for a block in better condition. depends on what your budget is I guess.

cool good stuff. I have not completely finished reading up on it yet but I get what your saying for the most part. still a couple of confusions. first why do you think the stock knock sensor will not work? all knock sensors generate the same type type of signal. they work like an O2 sensor sort of. they generate a signal with out needing any kind of voltage supply to it. The signal is rather weak though so it requires shielding roung the wire to prevent flse signals. now I can see that if I were to use the stock one for both the stock purpous and the aditional output to the APC unit then mayby it would pull down the signal too low for it to be read properly. hmm could be wrong but just throwing out a an idea. ok so no I did not grab the pressure transducer if its under the dash. I did get the little three way switching valve. guess I need to go back and pull some more pieces. the volvo site recomends the whole harness:-\ . too much work for me. I would rather cut and splice. it would be sweet if we could make a page documenting install on a subaru like the volvo guys have. it seems like its a simple thing that is made to sound complicated.

ok so junk yard hunting today. pulled a bunch of parts. now im broke. found an 88 saab900 turbo. could not rember what parts were needed exactly so I just pulled what I did rember. got almost everything. now I need to figure out how to wire it. I did not pull the harness as that looked like a pain in the rear I just loped off connectors. I am missing the pressure transducer and did not get the knock sensor as I hoped to use the stock one. so I did some reading up on the APC units and am curious if any one here has a fully functional set up? I know a few of you had talked about it. the volvo 240 guys seem to be all about it. boost control here I come:brow: