rallyruss

yup, Seattle is the goal. probably wont make it up there till after the 31st or late tht day. we are not leving untill the night of the 29th and have one boarding stop already planed in the shasta area on our way up. thanks for the offer though. garner can you PM me a number to call you with if we get a chance to stop by? dam. vacations are so fun makes me wonder why I work at all. oh yeah I rember now. stupid bills.

there are two fabricators that come to mind. Im not sure if they are stil doing custom parts or not but mudrat and soobme have built some custom parts in the past. DP sourses have been stated(techworks, subspeed) also a few custom units around here. rotors should be easy to find. I dont buy online so sorry no help there. exhaust sizing. 2.5 has worked well for many of us and the down pipes come that size I think. some have 3". it works but I dont see the benifit and its harder to install and still have good clearance. muffler. your choice. I have a cheapo glass pack on mine right now and it works just fine. sounds good, flows good.

brake parts should be no problem to find. I have had decent luck with PBR pads(not the beer) stut braces. well Im working on one right now but its not a real nice unit. if you just want to buy one. subspeed.com or one of or local fabricators from here on the board may be able to help you out. redo the exhaust with larger piping and a high flow muffler. put a down pipe on if you want more power out of it. there are 2 ready made DPs avl. now. and welcome:drunk:

So the wife the dog and myself are headed up on the 29th to snow board our way to Seattle. in between driving that is. I already plan on visiting and old board member (stormtrooper) on the way for some visiting and riding. mabey Garner Too? need to find xsnrg to swap parts with as well. going to stay with my cousin up there. wife will be flying home to get to work by the third. I will be driving back.

depending on the time frame I may just do that. we are hoping to hit some snow boarding on the way up too. it would be cool to see one of the td04 founding fathers;) I will start a meet/greet post on this.

oh yeah I keep forgeting about the new forum. whoops. I will send you the pics, thanks. and a description on how the throttle cable was done. its a bit ghetto so I want to keep it on the down low till I find a better solution.

still cannot see the pics. if you are not sure what it is then mabey it would be best to leave it alone.

hope to take pics soon. all the guys from work noticed them today. lots of good feedback. I think they look good with my car. black trim, black tint, black wheels. I will try in the morning when I can see the car better. can I send em to you full size? I never got that image resizer installed properly. really limits my ability to post pics.

hmm.. short answer. rather hard to do indeed. no major problems just a bunch of little ones. list of issues and solutions probelm 1- up pipe flange slightly different bolt pattern. my solution- weld a stud in place for the rear hole. others have stacked flanges or opened up the hole on the turbo. problem 2- down pipe fitment(stock WRX unit). my down pipe hit the tranny crossmember. solution- I was forced to cut a small wedge and reweld it. I could have avoided this if I had designed the angle into my modified up pipe(see TD04 thread) others have made adaptors or had no problems with clearance. problem 3- intercooler plumbing interferance with components. the output to intercooler on the td04 is to the side rather than straight up as well as the inlet having no elbow up. solution- I used a combination of new silicone bends and used intercooler hoses from the junk yard to get things to connect properly. some items needed to be relocated. the worst one was the throttle cable. others have used the spider intake manifold that may make this part simpler. problem 4- continuation of problem 3 the wrx intercooler did not fit and plumb as well as I had hoped it would. its now mounted at a funny angle and I think a bit less efficent than my old vw intercooler was. no solution here- I just wish I had found a way to go with a FMIC instead. I belive it would be more efficient and only slightly more difficult to install. my car has a custom bumper and oil cooler right where I would need it to go. other little things like getting the top coolant line to fit properly. redoing the exhaust again to meet the new DP. making a new torque rod to replace the stock unit that had to be removed. working on heatshields for the turbo and ducting to the intercooler. hood scoop was already there or that would be an issue as well. see this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23072&page=1&pp=10&highlight=td04+pipe

cousin yeah, I wish I still had that car. it was a lot of fun to drive. its a little savage. well when ever it happens I will try to make it . if for no other reason than to visit my old car. sniff sniff.

ever since I installed my TD04 I have been babying it due to exhaust leaks and the lack of a bypass valve. I never really had a chance to push it too hard because of this. well today I got the exhaust leaks all fixed and the bypass valve installed (thank you calebz) and I also was able to mount my new tire and wheel set up. 15" pug alloys painted black. (thanks sucker king) and new 205/50/15 khumos. a pain to mount but much nicer to ride on. so I have not gone far yet but it all appears to be working well so far. no more over boost. high RPM power is great. low end has a little bit more torque. I think due to my up pipe mod and better flowing turbo. slighty increased lag but not bad at all. intercooler still needs to be mounted properly. I was working on that tonight. I made a upper tie bar across the strut towers. but it hits the hood a bit:banghead: . it will have to be modified a bit to fit now. this weekend I plan to take it on a long trip. I guess that will be the time to really test it out. things are still not complete so I wont post pics yet but its really close. I will be heading up to washington around new years for a real road test so if any one needs any thing sent that way let me know. I will post more as it goes.

the holes in the head may need to be drilled larger to clear larger studs. its a little bit close. rather than go larger you can install thread inserts/helicoils that are 7/16" and those studs may be mor easily found. that is of course if we strike out on the custom order for the larger ones. they never offered me that option when I talked to them last time. If they can do it for tex that would open up a great option for EA82T building. studs would really help a high boost aplication. I think what he is working on is really the best thing.

I would say be ready to pay over 200$ for a complete set. but making the custom order may raise that a bit. this is just from what I learned from dealing with ARP.

im rather busy due to the holidays but my wife and I want to head up for some boarding soon. mabey we could tag along. depends on when you all decide to go.

they are not stretch studs so there should be no reason that you cannot reuse them. they are probably better for reuse than a standard head bolt.

yeah they give you a good deal of reserve fuel. I recomend aborting your test as its a great way to suck up crud/water/rust from the tank when it runs dry. I usually just look up the tank capacity in the owners manual. its a lot easyer. I then reset the trip meter every time fill up. so if I start going beyond my regular fill up milage due to a failed gauge or sender I can still tell how far I can go by the meter. it also helps keep track of fuel milage.

thats about what I found out. sorry for not chiming in sooner.let me know if they will make the long ones for you. I would be interested in some. they are not cheap but the quality great.

thats one of the reasons I went TD04 no more boost creep. you can add an external waste gate. but you would need to modify that nice new up pipe.

that would make sense to me. as I found with other types of lift kits. just droping the stock components is not always the best thing. sometimes you need to do you own modifications to keep it solid.

wow that was impressive. as for your question I would try to straighten it as best as possible and reinforce that point. if your going to wheel your roo thaty hard you may want to consider some full belly skid plates. no actual experience fixing that type of damage on a roo here sorry.

I have a stock air box with the opening to the fender cut larger and muffler/watertrap thingy removed. to be honest the stock set up is not to bad at keeping out water,mud ect. if I bomb a mud hole or two I find mud in the air filter. snowman- I have run a lot of K/N filters and know about the oil problem you speak of. Its caused when someone decides that if a little oil is good then alot must be better. the oil them blows off the air filter and gets on the MAF sensing wire. now most vehicles have a burn off cycle(like our subes) that cleans any stuff that got onto the hot wire off. some others such as manny ford MAFs do not have a burn off. they have problems with out adding oil to the situation. but the fix is simple. just blast the sensing wire with a shot of throttle body cleaner or brake clean works too. this problem usually will cause the car to run lean to the point of setting 02 codes. did not mean to dift so far off topic there sorry. if you use a K/N dont over oil it.

hmm well I dont know about other cars but on mine the oil cap fits a bit loose and a good bit of fumes get out. espically at a stop. if I turn it back a little bit to make it seal better I have no fume problems. it works for me. the actual exhaust seems to stay out evin when you have a gasket blown out like I do right now:mad:

hm those are rather nice. if I did not have Pugs coming to me I would want some. well just like snap on tools Im sure the quality is far better too.

snowman has got most of what you need to know already. you will want the complete gasket set not just the head gaskets. or at least new intake and exhaust gaskets too. I have used fel pro in the past with no problems. go figure. you can use regular silicone heater hose for the turbo lines. 1/2" I think it is. consider the clutch while its out. at least inspect it well. ARP does not have the proper length 11mm by 1.25 head studs to fit our motors and they did not offer me the option of making them. Im sure its possible but it would be a high dollar item. If some one find them or has them made let me know because I want some for my project motor. the sealer I use on the cam cover is called permatex ultra grey. it meets all the OE specs for sealing. definately do the T belts and the oil pump o rings maby a water pump too. I did one for a friend a while back and it did not run to much in parts. but then again I dont swear by OE stuff. pulling the motor is not too bad. the turbo cars have a lot of stuff to keep track of but it all seeems to fall together ok. when I do them I pull the whole motor manifolds harness and all and then pop off the manifolds (with everthing attached)on the stand. be carfull to mark the distributor position in relation to the cams and crank and then follow the timing belt instalation carefully(look it up here as it always seems to pop up) when installing the intake make sure the P.S. bracket is already bolted in place along with the heater line pipe. a/c is a bit tricky as there are hidden bolts on the bottom sometimes good luck

the TWE units are sweet but you have done a great job of coming close. you did not eliminate the up a little further pipe? I thought you planed on doing that? well hey looks great hope it work well. thats a better version of what I did. now you know what I mean about the restrictive bend huh.