rallyruss

10/40 should be fine as for the lack of power and top speed thats not unusual subes dont go real fast. you may have a probelm somewhere that is holding you back but I cannot guess at it. I dont completely understand the last question but I will try. so you are afraid you have low oil pressure because the light comes on? then you need to chech it with a good gauge. welcome

I had taken 3/8 bolts and run them thru the mount. chopped off each end and welded them in place. it worked good for a while and then it broke again good thing the mounts have those little tabs to limit travle. I have the window stuff ready to go I just need some new mounts.

he he:brow: some times I use the 4wd to merge onto the freeway from a dirt road or gravle area to get grip under boost. but then im on the freeway in 4wd hauling down the road. so what I have found to work well is let off the gas and put in the clutch and drop back into 2wd then continue down the road.

so mabey I dont quite get it. but this will be for subaru modifications? old and new gen? and the old gen. new gen. will be for basic keeping the car runing, fixing the blown head gasket type stuff? hmm gonna have to learn old dog new trick.thats cool I will adapt.

well back when I was an RX owner:( I only really pushed it in the dirt. and it would understeer into the corner and then grab and whip into it. made planing the approace and departure with out hitting cones a bit tricky. use of the throttle seemed to be the key to make it turn properly. I had to sort of feather it into the corner and as soon as it whiped I just romped it. the rally school I took it to was interesting. the car absolutly refused to swing out and maintain a constant slide for me and the instructor. it needs more power and suspension for sure.

no problem but its not a shure shot as A finding a GOOD parts store can be tricky and B they may not exist

I have never done it on a subaru but on other 4x4s I have gone to my GOOD local parts store and used the brake line appliction catalog to find longer lines with the same fittings on either side. sorry no specific info.

It came from a 2002 jetta 1.8t but I think all the vw mk4 1.8t cars use the same intercooler(Jetta, Golf, Bug? 1999-to current) yeah I have not completed the ducting to the WRX intercooler for better air flow but when I do I will have to make a comparison. my hunch is that if I measured temp drop and pressure drop the VW IC set up is more efficent. problem was it would not work well with the TD04s outlet to the side. thats why I had to go with the WRX unit. If I knew how poorly the WRX unit would have fit I would have gone FMIC. the biggest problem with a FMIC is that It has to sit out in front of every thing else on an EA82 car.

well I dont exactly agree with all the mods listed so far but I will throw a little change in here. I see a lot of people listing TD04 as an option. well yes it is. but its no direcet bolt on for sure. this is for the fabrication capable peoples out there. I want to see what others found but it took me close to 15 hours getting things all figured out and I dont want to type about all the things that dont fit and how I overcame them because I dont feel my system is proven yet and its not full complete. just drivable. for the stock turbo my VW 1.8T intercooler was verry efficent and not to dificult to install. verry simple plumbing. it does require a hole inthe hood and a hood scoop as it sits rather high but why would you want a TMIC without a hood scoop. during testing I found It droped about 100 deg f. I have to again say avoid the accel coils. the newest ones are known to be defective. if you find an old one before the moved production. great. the stadard NAPA replacement coil is made where Accel used to build its coils. someone posted a great link explaining why the NEW accel coils are junk. please dont ad them as a upgrage. I have a dead one in the garage if any one wants it. exhaust side. I personally have built systems to run without cats and without. If done properly a good down pipe mated to a 2.5 inch cat and 2.5 inch exhaust flows just as well or better than a hacked open/gutted stouck DP. yes I have run both. the DP I used to run was a Subspeed unit. it is expensive but it is a geat unit that bolts to all the stock trany locations, the lowerhanger and all the factory heatshielding that protects your trany and cv boots from the heat. the up pipe was modified to eliminate the restrictive bend up to the turbo and opened the ports to match better with the heads. I run a mostly complete air box with a K/N air filter. drop in type. opening to the fender is cut bigger in both air box and body with silencer removed. I do run a turbo timer but I am more interested in a electronic boost controler to be installed some day. i do run a oil cooler (adapter provided by WJM thank you) cooler is off a volvo turbo 240. the lines are custom made hydraulic hoses. you dont have to go that hard core but I do recomend using a good quality type of hose designed for oil coolers and routed well. a failure here can mean you just lost a motor. well thats more than enough for one days spouting. skip what size tire are you running?

I have not been able to find aftermaket wheels for pug cars any where. yes I looked around a bit. I am looking at running 205-55-15 its slightly taller than a stock tire. 205-50-15 would be a good fit too. almost the same height but would handle well due to wider footprint and lo pro sidewall. I will report back after I have a better idea of what they are like.

I dont think it really counts but my wagon was 3" higher in the rear on 195/75/14s it was a good bit higher than stock and I had considered lifting it more but decied to drop it back down and run shorter tires due to lack of gearing and torque. I just had to slip the clutch too often. the first clutch only lasted 20,000 miles and was rather burnt up (still functional) I changed it because the motor was out. if I had decent gears I would have gone bigger for sure.

you have MPFI with a flaper style MAF. its a good system over all. heres my view. if the a/c works keep it if not dump it. no p/s on an RX? I did not know they came that way. probably the most usefull thing you could do is relocate the battery to the trunk. but dont forget to vent it out of the car. that would give you better weight distribution and more elbow room under the hood I would keep the mechanical fan because if there is a failure in the electric set up your screwed with out it. subes dont like to overheat. if you are still going to keep it street legal here in CA dont yank the emissions stuff. it dosent hurt anything. as for the rally tires I think I saw them at tires.com or tirerack.com gut your interior and cage it.

I somtimes use permatex aviation sealant. it comes in a little white bottle with a brush in the cap. or for gluing a gasket in place I use gaskacinch(sp) it works great to hold the gasket in place. I also recomend puting anti sieze on the intake bolts as they seem prone to rusting in place and snaping.

if you run multiple posts on the same problem it may not help you much. If you dont know when the ignition parst were changed and you dont want to bother troubleshooting. then just change them. use good stuff like NGK. there have been many people with various surging, hesitation, stumble problems in the past. It could be one of many problems. you ned to do some checking. I already laid out a list of suspects for you to look at. if you need help understanding how to test a particular item we can help with that. but there is no sure fire fix for the problem you are experiencing.

you already posted on this problem right? you have tesed some things? ok this is what my teacher used to ask us if we looked stumped in finding a problem. Whats good? fuel pressure? MAF? TPS? CTS? it sounds like ignition but it also my be a bad injector or power supply to the injectors. a ground. its hard to troubleshoot over the net espically a problem like you seem to have. give us more info. you may need to take it to a shop with a dyno and a scope and let them simulate road conditions and see what happens.

I have done both. I think I like the extra room of radiator out as its only a little more effort to get it out of the way.

alright I could not take it any more. I ran some 2 1/2 pipe to a glass pack and out the back. oh so much nicer. I get to enjoy my sterio system now. please note that when no muffler is used but the pipe is run all the way out its not too bad inside. its when you end the exhaust UNDER the car that it is unbearable to drive.

when I was making my turbo heat shield for the TD04 the thought of cooking stuff on top of it did come to mind. I can see the grease fire already from trying to cook bacon on the turbo.

I guess its a matter of opinion as to what you consider "soft springs" all the rally cars I ever crewed for had stiffer springs and struts than a stock car would have had. I guess a 2" lift would be acceptable. I just invision a lifted monster when the term lift comes in. cool cool:cool:

lift? and rally? a sweet RARE turbo legacy? I love the car but I dont understand the plans well. rally cars use heavyduty struts/springs with a minimal amount of lift to keep the weight low but handle the bumps. sorry to rain on the parade but it just does not seem right for such a clean car. If you wanted to trick it out for street use I would be excited for you as that would make one awsome ride. yeah swap with junkie:brow: his is rally ready

hey I was just telling him that there are options to get it to spool up faster. but you are absolutly right they would be rediculosly expensive and require many mods. most people focus on getting more out of the top end. a turbo that already spools up at 2000 rpm is not that bad. I would guess that a more fitting turbo would not spool up untill 2300 rpm. like mabey a TD04. hey someone should try that. oh wait I already did. some day I wil have to swap in a ceramic ball bearing unit. that is truly the best of both worlds. quick spool up and good top end too. in all seriousness the Down pipe with larger exhaust and a intake mods as simple as removing the muffler unit in the fender will help you get spooled up quicker. I hear that the viscosity and type of oil makes a difference too.

I assume you dont want to lose top end? then you will need ceramic ball bearings and I dont thing thats an option for a stock turbo. the TWE headers I doubt will help spool up faster due to the increased diameter of the tubeing. thats going to help top end. there are prgraming devices for completely tunable injection systems that create what they call "antilag" its a litle tricky to explain but it dumps extra fuel and air into the turbo causing it to spin up early or somthing along those lines. its used in rally. a better flowing DP to exhaust and intake do help reduce lag a bit I have noticed.

some of those parts look familiar. but they might give me nightmares thinking about all the work it took me. those wheels should be rather nice on your wagon. as for the springs. dam you were not kidding about them being beefy. you will have go cart ride ride quality and handling for sure. make sure you dont have any leaks in that weld on the flange. I think I may have a leak at one of my welds that gave me some trouble while I was hurring to finish. consider your self proded with a stick. I want to see that beast rollin again. let me know if you have any luck with the bypass valve or DP gasket.

I second that

thats a good one. well I have been driving it around with the cats and no real exhaust on it yet. just a turn down. too loud (see no muffler thread). its runing rather well so far. no huge difference in power. kicks in a bit milder than before. I still need to get the bypass valve before I push it hard. it also needs the air directed onto the intercooler a bit better. I have to say its lots of work but worth while compared to the cost of a new or rebuilt stock turbo.