rallyruss

huh? I could not hear the question can you repeate? as I just completed the TD04 swap and have only the cats and a turn down on it right now. its frigging loud. engine braking down a long hill makes your head hurt. idle sounds nice but thats all. now if I were to run pipe out the back it would make it a good deal more pleasant to hear inside. I plan to put a glass pack on to avoid unwanted attention from the guys who drive crown vics with light bars on top.

you need to check the accuracy of your gauge. how does the air from the heater feel? normaly it seems subes warm up rather quick.

charcoal canister does not hurt performance at all. if any thing it helps a tiny bit. no its not a vacume leak. it is there to help prevent you expensive fuel from evaporating into the atmosphere (where it causes a bit of trouble). basically it lets you burn all the fuel you put into your tank.

since the filter is mounted side ways I dont think the "bottom" of the filter is really the bottom.

when I looked into getting my turbo rebuilt they could not find a kit only a complete cartrge assy. but it was like 500$ the primary reason I took it to a shop was that they should be ballanced after rebuilding. that kit looks good but you need to strongly consider having profesionally done.

you need to actually check O2 voltage and understand what you are looking at. I have posted numerous times about checking 02s so I appologize as I will not do it again. check the voltage and get back to me. I will try to help. when you installed the universal 02 you did not crimp the ground shielding to the signal wire did you?

well actually it disrupts the magnetic chi of the engine oil causing excelerated wear. ok no it dosent. just stick a magnet on ther end of the filter. or pop in the drain plug with one on it. its fun to look at stuff that comes out... as long as its not your motor.

like other stated. whats the voltage at the alt. if its higher then there is a voltage drop on the wire to the battery. I rember where that car came from. that was a bit of a damp environment. may have given you some corrosion issues. edrach- there are battery testers on the market now used by some shops and many parts stores that will test a partialy charged battery. mostly good results as long as there are good connections at the battery.

the turbo and then cats really quiet it down. I do run a muffler now but the RX that is now my cousins is not all that loud with no muffler( it does have cats)

I made a seperate wategate exit tube on a down pipe before. I dont know if it helped much. not exactly the same thing as an actual external waste gate. if you run cats you dont need much in the way of mufflers. as long as you run it all the way out the back. if it ends under the car it is a bit anoying. now why would you need to sneak away from the GFs house?

not really. all the regulator controls is pressure from the pump to the regulator(30ish). behind that you should have no pressure. the pump is capible of creating pressure 60psi or greater if you block the return flow. the system never sees this kind of pressure under normal conditions. now say you have an injector seal or hose connection that is a bit old and brittle. this is the time when it will fail under the excessive pressure. now say your car is runing fuel squirts near the exhaust or ignition wires. now you have a bit of a problem. my instructor recomended against this for the reasons of safety and it really does not tell you any thing usefull as far as trouble shooting goes. and if you have worked with pumps much you find out that the do not like to be deadheaded it causes lots of stress on it. now if you really want to try it. do it quickly. just enough to see your gauge jump and then release it. the best way to check fuel pressure is to actually put the gauge on the windshield and drive the car. this is as real a test as you can get. you need to understand how the pressure regulator works before you try it. when there is vacume applied to the regulator it drops the pressure a bit(idle or deceleration) when vacume is absent (acceleration) pressure rises.

come on I still had one cat on. mabey pugatory for me. I really did not push it hard. but no so far it does not feel any quicker than before. I will work on that part. it really was only a trial run.

I cannot help you with the 15" pugs but I do have some 14" pugs your from san jo too? where? I gotta check out your ride that sounds sweet. as you probably know already we are a rare breed in this area. Im in edenvale/great oaks branham lane east off montery highway. look me up if you are interested. oh yeah I think your state is wrong in the signiture area.

just a note. its usually not advisable to check fuel pressure with the return pinched. the actual pressure you need to be concerned about is the running pressure(low 30s) pinching returns can be dangerous. and it really does not tell you a lot except that your pump can put out a lot of pressure when dead headed(bad for pumps) ok mr safety out

the exhaust system has nothing to do with it. I can tell you that much. turbo cars like to breath free. no restriction needed. some things to think about. yes temp sensors can be troublesome. driving with it disconnected is just as bad for the car as with a bad connection(or sensor) there. so mabey I missed it but did you check fuel pressure under boost? it still sounds rather igniton like. I know you have swaped out a ton of parts it seems but there is a transistor on the coil bracket that actually does the switching for the coil. might be something to keep in mind. wait I just reread it. you checked the plug wires ect? how? under load? or was it just a visual inspection? I thought they had been changed.

woo hoo! IT LIVES. the plumbing is ugly. its not really done yet. but it ran 4 miles. I now have a good idea of how the final prouduct will need to be set up. I had to really cruise slow out of the neighborhood with just the down pipe on. but it sounded good when I opened it up on the open road. now to make some proper piping and up the boost a bit. I know I said I would be quiet but hey this is only the third? TD04 to run on an EA82T. no pics till its really done right. and when the car shuts down if you listen real close, you can hear the turbo spool down like a big ol cat turbo. ah... I love that sound. (stumbles off to bed )

oh yeah I am well past the point of no return. I thought about what you are saying with the down pipe cut and reweld. I am keeping the cats in the DP and did not really want to go chopping it up and ruining the built in heat shielding. I was thinking along the lines of removing the up pipe and giving it a wedgie weld along the same lines that you describe. as for the intercooler if I put it in the center, lined up with the TB it sits really high close to the hood and the y hose will not line up with the turbo outlet. If I turn it lenghtways, the outlet from the turbo to the IC can be done with tubing of reasonable length and moderate bends as well as the outlet to the TB from the IC. then it will sit lower and get air from the existing hood scoop(of set to the right) the throttle cable is a bit of an issue here too. its right where the outlet is. well I will hit it again tonight after I get home from work. guess it makes the allison tranny I am swaping out here seem like an easy job. well I think I have over posted on this thread so far. I will keep quiet untill I get it all worked out.

cool thanks garner. I really want to see how you up pipe comes out. as for mine I worked on it all night. its no wear near being done. actually I think I have to take it apart again. I mounted the turbo up and made all the coolant and oil lines fit. but when I went to install the down pipe it would not fit. its hitting the body before the flange comes together flush. and the transmision and rear hanger mounts are not working either. it seemed so perfect when I did a test fit. as for the intercooler. thats a whole seperate issue. stupid thing is huge. I dont see how others made it fit so easily. I am about to turn it side ways and try to find some piping that will work. sorry just a bit frustrated 6 hrs and it seems like I have made little progress. I can say that a good supply of mandrle bends and silicone couplers would really help about now. any sugestions would be considered. somthing tells me this is going to take a while longer than I hoped.

well its looking like it will not be cheap or straight forward the farther I get. I am trying to keep track of all that goes into it so I can at least advise others along with the bad dudes that have already done this. It seems we are all taking slightly different paths to boostdom. I am looking at a budget of close to 500$ and a quite a few hours labor too so far. GARNER- your little riser plate is rather cool. I almost did the same thing. I was going to incorperate it with new section of up pipe. but I started thinking about the oil and coolant lines to and from the turbo. espically the one hard line for the oil supply. how did you manage to make that one fit? did you just bend it? or made it longer? I will see what it looks like in place. the elbows I orderd should do the trick if all goes right.

you give me the parts and I will do it. oh thats my cousin not brother. but close enough. let mine be the guenna pig first. if it works well Ill be in business. el cheapo up pipes:lol:

thats true about the size. I hear that. the problem I see is that the pipe from the second bank on up is smaller than the pipe from the first one over to the second. now you think that you would want it proportionaly larger to accomidate the extra exhaust from the right bank exhaust. I looked at how the wrx set up is on my brother in laws car when we installed an aftermarket up pipe. the stock WRX unit is a good deal larger than our ea82T units. the one I made is still a bit smaller than his aftermarket one so I think it will be ok. its 2" pipe that has been bent(crimped) so that should bring the size right into the range that you are looking for. right before the turbo it still slims down a bit to speed it up a little. the stock unit slims down to about 1" id where the bend is. you ca see that old piece on the floor in the shot with the jig. I cant wait to offically join the TD04 club.

I thought about the extra material around the bolt too but decided to just weld around the bottom side where the head is. you cant really see that in the pic too well. but hey I have not had any welds fail recently either. this will be a good test of my ability to get enough penitration in my welds. calebz- thank you:drunk: yeah now that I have the jig made up it would be rather easy to build more of these. they are no where near as cool as the stainless mandrle bent units that are coming to some people. but this is a budget job right now. that new section of pipe is twice the size of the original. the part that you see from the left bank is actually double walled with a smaller size inside. you might also notice that at one point in time I tried to "port" the openings a bit.

as for intentionally ading a sharp edge for preignition? thats just crazy talk. the problem is not where the preignition happens so much as when. if you light off the mixture while the piston is still compressing on the up stroke you are creating tremendous amouts of pressure in the wrong direction. hence holes in pistons and launched Rods. I have a dead VW 1.8t here that died due to preingintion caused by running under boost lean. a verry expensive mistake.

CALEBZ- you got pics in the mail. and thank you. I just finished the up pipe. I went to my local muffler shop and got a little bent section a good bit larger than the restrictive original. I cut off all the old heat shielding. I will be wraping it before install. then I built a jig to hold the flanges in position properly. flared out the ends of the stock up pipe and welded in the new section. I test fit the TD04 on it and it fits great. I cannot down the car untill I have the silicone parts to complete this properly. where is that UPS guy?

if you weld em they will most likely recrack. I have used the punch method with sucess. it just brings the gap back together. but then again I never had much problem with pinging. probably because my car has been intercooled since I first built it.