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rallyruss

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Everything posted by rallyruss

  1. I would just remove the stock sending unit from the oil pump and installit there. I think the sending units are NPT not BSP. should be easy. if you dont have one there will be little plug where it should go. one is large and one is small. I dont know about the larger one as I have always used the small one.
  2. it may sound stupid but how old is the battery? how are the connections? and dont run the car straight off the battery or alt. have the batt tested.
  3. man I love vws and subarus but you sound like you had the pick of the runts from both litters. the repo car was overpriced from what it went thru. the bug is built in mexico on the low standard of quality line by under paid labor. sorry dude hope you get lucky.
  4. I think its only the calipers and pads that will swap.
  5. looks good. I may have to attempt somthing similar. I dont like the lousy street maners my car has now. I too am looking at tires in either 205/50/15 or 195/60/15. how much caster change were you able to gain? any binding problems?
  6. my wagon is only part time 4wd so its usually just a fwd car. a rear e brake for me would definately make the rears lock up without the front. right now I need to left foot brake to get it loose properly and grip aroud a loose corner.
  7. most are a bit awkward to use while wheeling. my toyota pick up has the pull and twits release. othors have the foot actuated kind. both are dificult to use off road. good work with the research. is the rotor thickness the same? that will make a difference too. I know on some cars(vw) that the calipers are the same but the pads and rotors differ. I will go to the local parts store and look at both pads and rotors if they have em in stock. my wife will hate this if you are correct. she feels uncomfortable travling down the road sideways for some reason.
  8. :cool: my intercooler came in!!!! sorry got a bit excited. I will get back after I make some real progress. one step closer. so out of curiosity. would any one be interested in a TD04 conversion "kit"? I am considering puting together a parts list, instructions, prices ect. along with others that are in the same boat as me.
  9. thats all? sounds reasonable to me for dealer prices. try the new gen. forum. this one is for the older subes.
  10. it should have a locking center diff AND a low range. at least all the ones I have seen(not manny) have that tranny set up.
  11. the coil pack is used with distributorless ignition systems. just a bit more advanced than our older disty set ups. the motors are a good bit different in EA and EJ vehicles and dont easily swap without serious modifications.
  12. better seats. 5speed duel range trany full time 4wd. locking center diff. LSD in the rear. Turbo. ground effects. hard to find yes. car has tons of traction. stiffer springs and struts. rear sway bar. rear disc. a real gauge cluster. probably more but thats all the stuff I miss after selling mine:(
  13. ok gotta show off again. mine works great. I did a bit of research and modifing but it came out great.
  14. it is a paper gasket. it has a built in strainer to keep loose nuts bolt and small animals out of your motor. I would try to locate the stock type gasket for that reason. if it were me, immediately after reinstalling it with out the strainer gasket I would probably drop somthing down the hole. maby that stuff just happens to me. I had a spare one but I think I gave it away already.
  15. those work fine. I have installed them before on vehicles.
  16. I am not going to weld on another flange. if I did that it would require removal of the up pipe. I will be doing this in car. because like I said It is going to be a temporary set up untill I build or buy something better. I have fitted the TD04 on a spare (but leaky) up pipe. the distance between the rear mounting hole and the edge of the flange is rather close. I will take a 3/8 bolt. mount the turbo to the flange. put the 3/8 bolt in the rear hole with a nut on it. tack weld it to the flange to make sure all things line up properly. unbolt turbo and weld it in place properly. I am using 3/8 instead of 10mm because stainless nuts are much more common than metric. stainless is not effected by all that heat as bad as regular steel fasteners. on the exhaust. I will only be using the down pipe from the wrx. the rest I can patch together with aluminized exhaust tubing. I have made two other 2.5" exhaust systems and am starting to get the hang of it.
  17. looks rather healthy to me:grin: sorry could not help my self. I love the intercooler just chillin out in front.
  18. ok I will remain calm. yes I too am going TD04. I have the turbo and down pipe. intercooler should show up tomarow. all stock wrx stuff. the up pipe for now will be a stock ea82 one with an extension welded on to bolt down the third flange bolt in back. I then will either make my own up pipe out of prebent mandrel tubing or buy one of those beautifull units WJM has worked so hard to get rollin. the stock wrx down pipe will fit perfect. I already test fited it on the car. I am changing over to a wrx type intercooler because of the TD04s lack of clockable housing. the waste gate actuator only goes on one way so you only get the option of out to the side. no up and into the intercooler like I currently have. the oil and coolant lines look like they will be direct bolt ons. hoses and stuff have yet to be completed as I am still waiting for that stupid intercooler to come in. Its a little more difficult because my wife sold her car and took mine:-\ well hopefully that will be done soon. I will document the process fully when I do it.
  19. What?:-p was I geting out of line again? ok I will try to keep quiet. mabey I will go play with the dog for a few.
  20. I tried to get mine rebuilt not long ago. it was going to cost a lot more than a low mile used td04 (wrx) turbo. if you have any desires of making it more powerfull and durable. I sugest you think about that option. if you want an affordable stock replacement I would sugest Ebay. I see lots of stock ea82T turbos come up on there.
  21. see I told you cougars were smart:cool: glad you got it goin. good on ya.
  22. its not much more. just do it. my two cats are fat and mischevious. I hear ocolots(sp) make great pets. but seriously get rid of the stock down pipe for somthing with flow and throw a single 3 way cat under it. it will purr like a kitten.
  23. thats good hopefully its just a couple of broken tranny mounts. check the motor mounts too.
  24. that coil has got to go. that how mine acted when it started to die. POS accel.
  25. hey welcome to the board. so you have an EJ22T in a ea series car? if so thats sweet. as for your problem. that is a tough one. assuming the engine is all stock(like it was in the legacy) I have a few ideas firt off you dont mention what fuel pressure you have durring the time when the problem occurs. it could be as simple as a pluged filter, crimped fuel line, or bad pump. I recently had a pluged filter that I misdiagnosed at work. I tuned it up and it still cut out under load. there were more details but I will not divulge as it was a chevy and trouble shooting it is a little different. fuel pressure can be fine at a stand still but under load it may drop. vacume leak and exhaust leak are two verry different things. vac. leak is in the metterd air portion of the intake somewhere. a exhaust leak is on the exhaust side of the motor. I seriously doubt that its related to the exhaust unless its plugged for some reason. I would put a good meter on the 02 sensor signal and drive it. what does it do under the failure condition?
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