rallyruss

yes its legal to use if you have all the right equipment. along with 134a. but these are little details that dont really effect the toppic.

yup that was me. I chopped out the old up bend and installed a slightly larger section for the angle up to the turbo(TD04). its had a ton of miles put on it and its one of the few things that has not broken recently. over all it has worked well. If I were to do it again I would fabricate a 4 bolt flange to help keep gaskets from blowing out

previously I installed 5" infinity Kappa speakers with little modification in an old 85 wagon. my current wagon(87 gl10) has 6 1/2" infinity component speakers. they were a pain to fit properly. required some serious triming and bending. not all that fun. the 5" speakers sounded just fine and were simpler to instal

I agree the best way is just to remove the turbo. do both hoses while you are there. I strongly recomend using high quality 1/2" silicone heater hose. regular coolant hose will fail after a while due to the heat. trust me on that one. oem hoses would be really nice too but are slightly more expensive.

I eliminated mine a while back when I upgraded fuel pumps. I really dont see much need for it. they slightly reduce fuel pump noise and are supposed to help keep pressure nice and smooth. The fuel pressure regulator does the same thing. if you cant find one easily dont worry about it too much.

just reinforcing a few A/C facts. worknig on your A/C system without the proper equipment is technically not legal. for good reason. before charging a system you should always have it evacuated and perform a vacume test to see if its evin worth dumping new "freon" into the system. The "kits" are not the right way to do the job. there are several other steps and conponents that should be changed that they do not address. A/C systems are one of the most tricky parts of the car to diagnose and repair corectly. anyone can add some refrigerant to the system. but it may only last a short while unless all other issues addressed. yes both R12 and 134A directly contribute to the depletion of the ozone layer. more so than many other gasses we release from our cars every day. thats why its inportant to recover and recycle refrigerants carefully. its not that hard to do the job right. A/C work can be performed correctly by the home mechaic as long they have acess to the proper equipment and undrstand how to do the job right.

yeah I will be trailering it up and back. updates on the new cars performance tomarow.

35K miles of good spoolin fun and still running. far better than the stock turbo.

the readings you are showing are consistantly bad. the normaly accepted range is 10psi max difference between cylinders. your first check shows 25 the second 30. thats not exactly normal. your readings are also a bit higher than I would normally expect to see. shaking at idle could possibly be the motor. espically if you have noticed it getting worse. did the mechanic do any vacume tests or running conpression tests? cylinder contribution is another good one. we can all "guess" at the cause of the problem here over the net but you and your mechanic are the only ones that have had first hand experience with the car. Im not a full blown subaru expert but I have worked on a few EA82s over the years along with many others as a mechanic. If you wish to swing down to the south bay for a visit I would be more than willing to give you a second(or is that fourth) opinion on the matter. hope it all gets straightened out. good luck and have fun camping.

I will be out to play. any one else want to see my car get trashed? I figure this is the best way to break in the motor right?

kind of of sounds like a maf problem. hard to say for sure but its a good place to start.

Im leaving for New Mexico to pick up an RX. anyone need somthing moved or picked up? have an F350 and a car trailer. San Jose to Los alamos starting friday evening.

well you already have a leak. guess you could still have a leak after sealing attempts. I would guess the shop vac would work better as its hard to get a good seal on your motor to pull a vacume with a small high vacume pump.

the seal is actually at the meeting of the case halfs. You may be ably to pull out the bolt clean it and the hole well with brake/carb cleaner then use sealer in the hole and up by the bolt head. permatex ultra grey or black might work. teflon tape is for tappered pipe threads only. I cannot recomend it for any straight thread sealing. so yeah you may be able to stop or slow down you leak if you get lucky. I learned another trick a while back.I dont know if it would work for you or not. you seal the pcv and crank case breathers and pull a vacume (with a shop vac) on your engine. apply RTV to cleaned area of leak and hopefully the vacume will pull the sealer into the gap. I only tried this one time and it did reduce the leak greatly but did not stop it completely.

I have seen steering rack clunks. my wagon was doing it untill I repaced the rack. lift one tire off the ground and wiggle it in and out. then switch sides. you may catch it that way.

you just run a hose to the intake boot to the turbo. at least thats the easy way. I have also plumbed the line to an intercooler as well. it works but is more prone to failure in my opinion. either way will work.

um not exactly. thats how newer vehicles with returnless fuel systems work. not an old RX. The computer does NOT control duty cycle on an EA82T car. they pump runs full on all the time. the pressure regulator just dumps the extra fuel back into the tank. before you shotgun the ECM check at the big injector resistor pack to see if it has power or not. the ECM only controls the ground side of the injectors.

thats my guess too. another intercooled RX in the area huh? we all need to meet up. I will be rallyXing mine in june up at thunder hill if you are interested.

well two posts up is my current RX rallyX car. I will be picking up another soon to fix and keep?/sell? dont know yet really. Junkies is my old one so I guess I get two cars in this thread indirectly. as for mods well the body work is obvious also has a FMIC if you look closely it has a lightened flywheel body reinforcement some more little stuff

I worked at a small independant parts store long before I ever got into the subaru madness my self. I rember the listings for anything on older subarus were the worst. I really hated them for that at the time. now I am a on the other side of the counter and feel the customers frustration too.

yeah it would be but if we do it the last weekend of this month I will already be there.

Its kind of a pain to get to. I would give yourself at least an hour and a Beer or two. you may be able to do it quicker if you skip the beer step. Holmes are interested in a bay area meet? check meet and greet if so.

the 5th / 6th would be a friday / saturday. saturday would probably be best for me. highway 130 is the road that runs all the way over the top from San Jose to highway 5. 70 miles of turns. the park we met at last time is Joseph D grant county park. Its 10 miles east of San Jose. Its a nice place never really gets too crowded unless there is an event there. The observatory is 10 miles east of the park. There are good views and some telescope/Historical things to look at. then road runs another 50 miles out to highway 5 or you can split off and go north to livermore. there is a little OHV park on the back side(east) called Frank Raines regonal park. there are little to no services for the whole distance. one little hole in the wall place called the junction. jut a stop for Bikes and ranchers. This is a convenient location for me but it would appear to be a bit of a drive for the sac reno crew. I will be up In the area between Napa and Clear lake on april 29th and 30th maby somthing up there would be more centraly located for people? I got off on some dirt roads that went for a long ways up north of clear lake last year.

Yeah I have been checking in too. are we on?

a battery disconect is the right thing to do. they alo sell system protectors that just clamp onto the batt terminals. I think its just a big capacitor really. I have to admit I have mig welded on my car many times without protecting the ECM and have had no problems.