rallyruss

well this is exactly why I dont agree with calling the lifts used on a subaru a body lift. a body lift lifts the body higher off the frame while the frame still sits in the stock location. and thus not much overall ground clearance gained. subarus dont have frames! it does give you more clearance under the body because its raised and there is no frame hanging down. its the same thing as a jeep cherokee there is no frame thus no way to install a body lift. ok so I wont call it a suspenion lift because some people dont want to admit thats what it is. we can just settle on the term lift if will make us all happy. I attempted to fab my own 2" lift as you have mentioned and gave up as soon as I realized It would not help my car unless I made some other major changes. now you do have a low range, some torque and a lighter car so you may benifit from a lift. I ran bridgestone dueler A/T lt195/75/r14 for a while and with the excepton of the lack of gearing they were great in snow, mud and gravle while still behaving well on the street. I had to clearance the fenders just a bit to make them work. if you dont want to go lifted these are a great option. mine are going to be for sale cheap if anyone wants em:brow:

ok if I rember correctly some one in the past stated that the EA82T injectors flowed as much as the stock wrx ones. now I would verify that you are leaning out before swaping injectors. The ECM would not be able to adapt to the larger injectors and you would probably not be able to idle without aditional sofware to control them. personally I feel that you can gain alot more by concentrating on a turbo upgrade and intercooling along with exhaust flow. the stock turbo is great off the line but its too small to give you good top end power. I am in the process of doing a TD04 swap as soon as I get the rest of the needed parts to complete it. I will see if it runs lean at all after the swap but I seriously doubt it as long as I keep boost pressures reasonable.

well It could be done if you dont mind hacking with a reciprocating saw to gain enough clearance. and there are advantages to big tires and no lift off road as long as you are not rubbing. for one you are less top heavy. your drive train is still sitting in the stock position and less likely to get broken. but Rooinator is correct that without gears you are really not gaining any thing (with the exception of clutch changing practice) I recently went back down to stock tires because of the oversize ones with no gearing and a low compression turbo motor sucked on any kind of steep hill or really rough terain. but big tires are fun and we all want to do it so have fun.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22126 this was a good thread on o2 function. the problem you are refering to sounds like its more MAF related.

yeah thats the symptom of bad ( or poorly designed ) plug wires. poor fit at the ends alowing spark to jump down the plug. dirty or worn out plugs makethe problem worse. I strongly recomend a new set of ngk plugs and ngk wires. I think you will be happy with the results

thank since I posted I had some info fall into my lap. oh I hapen to have an old SDSEFI system in a box in the garage. It was not too bad to use only tricky part was getting good low end and idle when running big injectors. I swaped it back to a stock ECM to gain better drivability along with stock injectors. this was on a toyota 22R(E?) motor.

well hopefully you can go on out there and find your problem now that we have fully discussed the workings of the 02 sensor. good luck and tell us what you find.

hey spideys sorry I could not take that thing off your hands. I have too many cars now. I still have all the parts needed to build another good motor and the RX that I was going to build it for is gone now. if you want I can put it together and in for you for a verry reasonable price. I know I offered this before but its still here if you want it.

fox you are a savage. thats why I run belt covers. more power to ya.

NORTHWET- yep you get it. thank you for understanding. yeah the ground is rather important and is not to good due to rust and heat related problems. I went with a three wire 02 to eliminate the bad ground and also give it a heater to kick it into action quicker. and of course Skip always has good input thank you. this may actualy turn out to be an good thread full of info. I know this should go elsewhere but does anyone have good info on the wide band 02? maby send me a PM?

I already gave you all the info you need. if I was not clear in my explanation I appologize. contact me on what part you do not under stand. I can assure you that the info provided is correct as this is what I do day to day.

good stuff, I have not yet installed the one I picked up because I need to swap to a WRX intercooler . and no its not really clockable due to the mounting of the waste gate actuator. but the good news is that a stock wrx down pipe fits perfect in a ea82 body and I have a plan for the up pipe mountinng flange.

02 bounce is completely normal. All efi cars are designed to run like that. and yes it is supposed to hit what would appear to be extreme limits while bouncing. That is the sign of a good healthy motor running well. The purpous of this is to make the Cat converter work most efficiently. yes on a sube it may indicate a bad 02. here is why. subaru (along with GM, dodge,and others) send out a verry low amperage signal of aprox 5 volts on the 02 signal wire. the 02 generates the signal you would normaly see overiding the referance voltage if all is working properly. if the o2 is dead it cannot pull the signal down to the 1 volt range needed to send a good reading back to the ECM. your mixture meter is nothing more than a volt meter that reads only 0 to 1 volts. so if it sees 1 volt or above (the referance voltage) it calls it rich. if you have a volt meter you can get a better sense of what is really happening while watching the signal. to be honest mixture meters are verry dificult to use in dialing in a perfect mixture with the o2. all they really can tell you is if you are going lean under full load. this is rather important as we should all know that lean under load or boost means detonation. the check engine light should have been triggered for this problem if the o2 you are using is the same one as the ECM. that may cause you some trouble as well because it may put too much load on the sensor. its usually best to run a seperate O2 for a mixture meter or find a way to boost the signal. ah well thats about enough about 02 sensors. I just had to describe this same thing to my seinor mechanic at work the other day.

actually it does use O2 at idle. but no not under full throttle. the propane torch method is the only one that sometimes works for cleaning. honestly just swap it out. and if you hapen to use a crimp in universal O2 make sure not to crimp the shielding ground around the signal wire to the signal. this will cause you problems as well.

kia ora! and welcome to the board. glad to have some Kiwis on here. the only link I know of is not exactly for you car but I will throw it up any way. http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 what kind of info are you looking for?

no unfourtunately not. It was just supposed to be my snowboarding car but things just got out of hand. I am not too good at posting pics and all that either. maby when I get the new turbo set up properly I may do some boasting and braging then. I would not waste your time with struts that you dont really trust. get a set of KYBs or get crazy and make some custom coil overs if you want.

what kind of struts are they? I have never actually paid attention to the extension speed. It may mean nothing. just how the seals are draging or the valving is working. who knows. mabey the amount of gas charge is different? the gas just acts to prevent the oil from foaming up under hard use. I personally trust KYB and have had verry good luck.

look at summit or jegs I used a volvo 240 turbo cooler with wjm sandwich adapter and custom lines. the volvo fittings are metric and a bit hard to find but the cooler is really solid.

have a friend jam a pry bar thru it and against the block or use air tools. assuming you are removing the fly wheel from the crank. another way is with a breaker bar on the bolt hold it and smack it with a BFH. A little dangerous but it works like a impact gun.. sort of.

yeah the lower one keeps the heat away from the cv boot and the rest help keep the heat out of the engine compartment. the RX I used to have ran with out em because it was not a daily driver but I did put em back on the wagon. they are a pain to install but I do feel they are benifical. like turbone said heat wrap is a good alternative but Its not cheap. I would at least install the one between the CV boot and the exhaust. and no mine dont rattle anymore now that I welded up the cracks.

primarily hesitation on acceleration. thats when most fuel is needed and the restriction will be noticable.

technically true yes. but the smog tech is not required to get under the car and verify that you have the two seperate cats during the inspection. so as long as you have one good 3 way cat you are probably fine. a smog ref. might actually check if you had to go there for anything.you are not really required to have a muffler either I have smoged mine with only the down pipe and cat in place. they just need a place to stick the probe (no not like that you sicko)

I dont know what you have on there right now but I got away with one replacement 3 way cat and a dummy front cat. it passed ok like that. what do you have on it now? did it fail? if so what were the numbers?

yeah that sucks. I have had my share of deer run ins ,overs, unders and arounds. I think that it may have something to do with peer pressure. I once had a full grown buck run out and try to clear my lifted toy 4x4. Well he broke my mirrror off and added a few dents but did not quite clear the truck. He proceded to run back up the hill where there were a whole group of deer watching. I think he had some kind of a bet goning about car jumping. and lost. the other explanation I have is drug related. When I lived out in a well known pot growing area years ago there were some really stupid deer roaming about. And if you know anything about grownig the herb you would know that deer will go to great lenghts to get at it and eat all of it. Well one night I had two run out right in front of me as I was doing 60+. I hit both at the same time. The truck flew in the air and landed on two wheels I finally ended up in the ditch after some interesting manuvering. both deer looked like deerburger. I blame it on the pot. stupid animals (or people) should not do drugs. that why my wagon has the bumper it has now. yeah it spends 85% of its time in the city but its nice to have at night on some dark forrest road. Yeah I did get the idea from my trip to AU and NZD. they have em on all sorts of cars. I think they look good.

Sea Foam deep creep. now thats the best pen oil I have ever used. I used to work at the local sewage treatment plant on the heavy equipment. that stuff would corrode stainless fasteners. yield worked OK but deep creep is the best. PB is cool too if thats the best you can find. and last resort. the blue wrench.