rallyruss

Red Line its worth the extra dollars

not me at least not recently

Ok so this week I spoted a mostly complete XT6 in the crapy pick and pull near my house. well I am looking at changing up my wheels and tires and the XT6 conversion was mighty tempting. I know this yard charges top dollar for this stuff. well do I yank the XT stuff or run pugs a while longer? are the XT6 brakes bigger? just looking for some feed back. or if some one else wants stuff let me know.

why yes. I just hapen to fully under stand the workings of the good old O2 sensor. no. resistance bad. voltage good. ok so I am sure I have explained this before but here we go again. the O2 sensor outputs a 0 to 1Volt signal that it generates. the higer the voltage(.6v to 1v) means it sees verry little O2 in the exhaust. this usually means its a rich mixture. a low reading (.4v to 0V) means lean or too much O2 left over. This may also mean misfire. incomplete combustion and O2 left over. so yes O2 can help you dial in a car but be carefull it can also mislead you. on a carbed car it is almost impossible to get it to run at a perfect .5 volts so just try to get it as close as you can. on fuel injected vehicles the ecm should be driving the mixture from rich to lean in miliseconds thus the fluctuating O2 signal on a warm injected car with a good sensor. this makes the cat. converter work most efficently. yeah. ok. I will stop now. most of you probaby dont really care how the O2 effects the car.

just read a review of the saab 9-2x and had to bring this thread back to life. I think the 9-2x Is a bad arse subaru. its the best wrx you can buy. Im with calebz all the way this car. Its a WRX with the quirks tuned out of it, and a better waranty. my wife is shoping for an all wheel drive wagon right now. So far she has looked at the BMW XI wagons, subarus of course and a few others. I think that the new saab looks sweet and I will tell her to throw that into the pool of vehicles to pick from. all the used WRX's around here are all moded out and probably street raced like crazy. I hear plenty of em go flying by my shop during my shift. saab a roo hmmm.. thats cool enough for me.

dexcool is the type of coolant not an aditive. havolin ,prestone and a/c delco all make it to the same specs. no. do NOT mix not evin after a flush. You really cannot get all that crap out because it soaks into seals and gaskets and then you have the same corosion problem. I ran dexcool In my toyota truck after rebuilding it completely. new everyting. so far so good. the German stuff GD talks about is really good stuff. I belive it can be used in place of green stuff. there are tons of different coolants out there right now in the truck and heavy equipment being relased. I try really hard to stick with the OE stuff when possible. do not let a dexcool car run low because air will help cause the dreaded dexcool mud that you may see in some cars.

E) that car is sweet as is. get a ugly beater 4wd and keep the 2wd for a nice daily driver.

my car is the same. reman axles from the same company. one is 36 the other 32. otherwise they are the same.

I have sucessfully brazed them on my cousins volvo before. if not the dealership or wrecking yard is the best bet unless you can fab up a quality braided stainless line. I wold not mess with regular rubber hose. remember this goes to the turbo. lots of heat. good luck

NOOOOOO:banghead: CO- is an indicator of a rich mixture HC- is UNburned fuel wich can be caused by really REALLY rich mixture but is normaly because of low compression or misfire type failures. if the HC is cool then you really are not that far out. do you have air injection on that thing? if that does not work properly you will come out a little high on the CO side. what is the timing set at? sometimes a little retard(no jokes please) can help a bit. not too much just a couple of deg. the carb itself can do this too. posible float level problem? I hate smoging cars with carbs. but maybey a little "accidental" vac. leak might help:rolleyes: if its a feed back system check the o2 signal and the dwell on the mc solinoid. I am more familiar with this on a GM car so forgive me if I use the wrong terms. oh and yes the temp sensor could be the problem as well check the voltage when cold and hot what do you get?

its all in good fun. I still am interested in the actualy sources for the major engine mod parts. espically the head studs (remember thats how the thread started? ) if some one can tell me where to get them I will run em. I have a verry mild motor in the works right now but it could really use studs. I feel the head bolts are a design flaw. most boxers that are solid use studs. we can argue back and forth all day (and the next few) but i want real info be it good or bad. I think his original statment was mostly on track and fully achievable if you dont concern your self with HP numbers. I really could care less about how much HP somthing has. I am impressed by a solid built and running motor that fits the cars use.

ok so this is just a silly street race story. not my usual thing but it cracked me up. we are on a large express way and I am behind a slamed integra going 30MPH in a 45 zone. I got tired of it and went around him. At the next light he was behind me. when we took off he romped around me and cut me off. I was mildly insulted. then he proceded to run away as quick as he could. Well... I could not help my self. I started chasing him. It was a good distance beween lights and I was only a couple of car lengths behind the whole way. at one point it smelled funny(his car) at the next light he was flipping his rear seat up. My navigator is a Ex street racer. he is rather sure that he was "squeezing" NOS on me. I was verry amused. I would really expect to get spanked by a smaller VTEC car:rolleyes: on the baby bottle. but he never really pulled that far ahead. now please note I am runing a turbo on its last lag blowing oil at stock boost. I really need to get my TDO4 installed. :-\ This is no kind of street racing endorsement. I still feel its a stupid thing to do. The street we were on was clear all the way to the next light with no side streets or pedestrian traffic.

its always better to "know your enemy" I like clean air. I live in a highly populated vally and air quality is not always that good. you have a point. there are lots of other polution sources that need to be addressed. and the "smog credit" system for big buisness needs to go. alas I am drifting off topic. sorry Im done.

ah yes good point. the best way to tell the difference is by using a "block test" or watching a pressure tester while running. I still would lean in the direction of the HG

Bishop is on the right track. the TAC refers to not only the air cleaner housuing with the vacume operated flapper but also to the flexible "preheater hose". GD it is still considered an emissions item because it reduces emisions on cold start up. It helps get the car running at opperating temp sooner. Thats why some fuel injected cars have them as well. the "nazi emmisons idiots" have some logic to thier ways. Try studing hazmat regulations if you want to see conflicting stupidity. yes I have studied and worked with both and I will take the smog regulations any day.

I am with GD the fel pro stuff is quality. you need to pull the head anyhow right? have it inspected/ pressure tested and if its good resurface it and reuse it. If you want to go el cheapo just do the one head. new heads are big$$$.

you need to pull the cam sprockets off to get a good look at the cam seals. If you dont do that you are still guessing. it does appear to be coming from the valve cover gasket but that could be wrong. I am on my third ea82 car and only one out of the three leaked. if you properly seal them they are just as good or better than many motors out there. you need to look back to the sealing methods of older cars to appreciate what this motor has. but the emphasis is on the methods and materials used.

I dont know of any one on this board that has had the... well whatever it takes to do a complete drivetrain swap. I saw a complete drivetrain on ebay once and am kicking myself for letting it slip. as for your car now? well there are some things you can do to the stock drivetrain. but I am an EA82 guy so I will not go where I am not expreienced. the shifter bushings may be the cause of your problems. with the stick. and for second gear try some good fresh fluid. I would recomend red line synthetic MTL but I doubt you have acess to it down there. I am sure you can find a good equivilant.

I was just there and I am willing to go back again. ok I will have to convince the wife about this plan (she was not impressed with your snow fields last year) . I think I can work on it. puting coins in the piggy bank.

ok lets bench race:burnout: I, like you cannot go to the extremes that you sugest. but it is fun to think about. well I get most of the mods. but how do you plan to do the brake up grade? that is one thing I would really like to know. I hate the stock brakes. you give me leads I will do it. the rest is up to the rest of you freaks with blown flat fours. I have enough troubles just trying to get a reasonable WRX inter cooler to complete the TDO4 swap. yeah thats a real one too. It will happen. another thing that maybey you can adress else where is your alignment? dampers? did you not get a camber adjustment mod done? I must have missed it but am interested.

three words. Idle air control check it out. the TPS does play a role in this too. as it needs to know its at idle and has increased load.

true and its also rather heavy. but you would definately want to build brackets that attach to the stock points on the subframe. thats how I attached mine.

definately a caliper draging a little bit. I have seen this before. you can attempt to just clean and lube the slides but it may require a new set of calipers if the square cut seal is not allowing the piston to return properly. the best way to tell is by looking at the pad wear. they should be evin. also turning or replacing the rotors helps too. you should do this anyway when replacing brake pads or it will contribute to squeaks.

dam fine Ghetto enginering.

I know its not a good pic for the detail but its the best one I could come up with. I have made some changes since then. It now has lights and an oil cooler in it too.