rallyruss

Soobme has been building some nice ones. I made my own using his idea. I used 2 by 3 square tubing for the bumper itself. 2 by 1 square for the lower drop down part. 3/4"? tubing around the lights and some chanel for the mounting point. I cut bent and rewelded the the main tube to contour with the front of the car.

ohh stainless pipes. thats sweet and the welds dont look to shabby either. I do like the low profile bend around the cross member. I always seem to get the exhaust caught on things. how bout a turbo set up?

ok thats good info. so say I plan on using the inside of the rear pannel as my "box" it may be a good idea to line it with dynamat stuff? I am going for the least amount of cargo space loss and most sound. nutt7 thanks for the tips. I went to JLs site and got myself fully confused. actually there was some good stuff there.

cool thanks guys. I think I will work on the subs facing into the pannel set up with MDF. I definately plan on cutting out the inside of the compartment. the amp seems to be a decent one and its designed for the type of system I am building. the last guy just used it to drive three 8 inch subs in a single box. kind of a waste for this type of amp. his current system is all bass and two little 6" 3ways off the deck. it just hurts to sit in his car. whats up with the dynamat sticky stuff? where should it be used idealy? I just removed a system from a junk car and it had the stuff around the speakers mounting area.

why would you be replaceing them? is there a problem you are looking to address? they are simple items to change but its the old saying if it aint broke dont fix it.

ok so I am installing a bit of a system in my gl10 wagon. I need some ideas on how to mount the speakers in the rear. I dont want any boxes taking up all the space in the rear. I am thinking the rear side pockets would work nicely. Oh the subs are 8" JL audio. the rear pockets are 13" by 13". I was thinking about a wood or steel plate in the pocet mounting locations with the subs mounted facing into the pannel. I hear this actually makes use of the car body like a box. any one try any thing like this? oh in the front and rear doors I am using the existing infinity component speakers but will be hooking them to the amp(JBL 6way) I will be getting a new alpine head unit as soon as I get some $$$ saved. for now I am using the clarion unit thats in the car. help thoughts insults what ever. and no I will not be sitting at lights with my widows down advertising just how much noise I can make. I just want a good clean souding system.

ok so Will is crazy. now I want to get back to this head stud issue. I have attempted to aquire quality head studs with no sucess. they are 11mm by 1.25 pitch. not a really common size. Now if they are made by someone great. I know ARP does not have the proper size because I already ordered the wrong ones from them. now it may be a pain but if you were to helicoil the case to a 7/16 thread size. you might be able to run an ARP stud. I also researched getting a set of JE forged pistions at one time. Unfortunately I recieved two completely different quotes on the two different times I spoke with them. the second person (with the much higher price) was not verry helpfull at all. now my second idea was to find an existing pistion for another aplication with the same or similar dimensions in bore size and pin diameter. It would have to have the same pin retainer design as well. I am not evin going to start throwing guesses out there with all the HP issues. the only thing I can say is that the actual dollar amount for a properly built high HP motor will be verry high. 2000$ will not get you too far.

I just picked up some of the urathane sealer from a guy at work. need to do it soon. I also had another cheapo fix recently when I discovered one of my engine mounts was torn. new ones are not cheap so temporarily I pulled it out drilled two holes for 3/8 rod to go in and then welded up each end of the rod after droping them into the mount. it actually works really well only shakes when you first start it and at idle with A/C on.

if its a gl. you have 2 filiments in each bulb. running both at the same time would really shorten the bulb life. you could use a relay or 2 to do it but I would not recomend it. just get a decent set of driving lights.

Sounds like a vacume leak at the intake boot. you are artifically adjusting your fuel rato by crimping the return line. also check the maf for failure or dirt. and lastly a shorted temp sensor circit will also tell it to run lean. by the way that is a big no no in diagnosis to leave the return line crimped. well it sounds like you found that out already. pressures can spike to over 100psi. then the highly pressurized fuel tries to find another way out. using a brief squeeze is ok (with a gauge attached)

the manifold is only under pressure during boost conditions. most of the time it operates in a vacume just like any other motor. all you need is a check valve to a vacume canister to get a good constaint vacume source.

hmm I think you know what the problem really is:rolleyes: half shaft? mmmm no.

Samo is all up on it. I have found alpine and infinity components to be really nice. but its only recently that I have decided to go a bit higher with my current system. still learning myself.

I was caught in the bad info crew as well. the chilton book I used showed 25deg for my 87. but it likes the correct 20 deg much better.

yeah it is over kill.I would still recomend actual oil cooler line. summit sells both the grey neopren hose in 1/2" and the stainless braided hose. both are verry reasonably priced and would offer more protection than regular fuel line. I considered using the tranny cooler in the radiator too but the flow would be too restrictive. the lines are just too small.

how bout next year? give us all a bit of time to save up some $$$ for the flight. I did north island this last year and I really want to see the south island.(no not because of lord of the rings) great place to go on holiday I hear;)

1/2" is good (as long as it does not crimp) fuel line? I know its been done but I would not trust it. Too easy to rub a hole in a line and lose all your oil(and motor) pressures varry depending on lots of conditions. are you installing a gauge? this is what I used. 4000 psi hydraulic hoses:brow:

its a bit dificult to see the cyl. walls. hows the wear look? just because its dirty does not mean its shot. give it a good reseal if all looks well. Did you happen to do a compression test before tear down?

I think there is a reason the stock coils cost so much(besides the crazy dealer price) and accell coils are cheap? hmm you get what you pay for? this may not be the problem but I would start there as a coil is easy to swap.

on a flaper style maf you can pop off the cover and change the position of the sweep arm to make it think there it more air flow than there is. this will not help at full throttle where you really need it. only at idle and cruise where you dont need it rich. some mafs have an adjustment for fine control of idle mixture.

Ahh another Accell. mine did not fail right away either. It started cutting out on hard pulls up hills undr boost. a jerking sensation that would go away if I took my foot out of it reducing the load. this got worse and worse untill it finally dies on a road trip. I was sure I must have been leaning out under load. but no it was just that POS coil. I point out the the o2 mixture reading because it will look like its lean when you have a misfire condition. rember O2 means all it reads is how much 02 is in the exhaust stream. and lean and misfire both let tons of o2 into the exhaust. I dont know what leaded fuel does to an o2 but it cannot be good. noid lights are verry common for testing injectors. the usually plug in to the harness where the injector connects.unfortunately they only tell you that some kind of signal is being sent to the injector. they can get you in trouble if you use only the noid to diagnose. Avoid the noid. I would bet that a good stock coil will solve your problem.

they make rally tires with really agressive tread in some tiny sizes. try kuhmo. I am currently running a decent all terain bridgstone duelar A/T in a similar size to what you listed. they work really well but I will be getting rid of them soon due to lack of gears.

dont try to rush it. It may be possible to complete in one quick shot. then again if you have any luck like mine you will run into multiple problems that will slow you down no matter how hard you try. I now sceduel these unforseen obsticals into a project. I would do it at home. but then again I have most all the tools I need in my small garage. I would make the suspension/ brakes project seperate. none of that stuff will need to come off to do the swap any way. good luck.

dont forget about spark quality and delivery. An ignition miss may feel similar. leave the fuel presure regulator alone untill you can see what the o2 does under the conditions described. also rember it will show incomplete combustion as lean. a bit of a false reading.

I have done it several methods from the pliers, the cube and now an actual piston tool that I purchased to do VW rear calipers. It is by far the best one of all that I have tried. yes it costs a little more but it saves a lot of frustration.they all work to some degree. be carefull if you do use air tools. there are seals in there that may not react well to being spun like that.