rallyruss

I see your car has a case of mud magnatism:brow: the force that drives a car into a big mud hole. too bad you were pulled out by a silly looking truck. looks like some rough terrain for MN.

there is a little short cut that makes this a bit easier. if the left bank is aligned with the cam marks up and the crank at the three little marks. just install the right side with the cam notch aligned facing down. there are marks on the bottom of the cam covers also to help you with this. yeah I missed that step the first time I did one too. has to be a really stupid procedure. all to keep the cam sprokets interchangable I guess.

the junk they sell in gallon size cans is worthless. I soaked a carb in it for a week and it still came out dirty. its some strange chemicle that smells really bad but will not clean. the spray stuff is your best bet. use gloves and glasses.

yeah the car will still run but the flapper is now effected by gravity as well as air flow when sideways. this will cause some variations in mixture throughout the sweep. of course a hot wire unit does not care and can be mounted any way.

the one for the gauge is the single wire unit by the thermostat. the one for fuel control is a 2 wire on the intake coolant passage.

I purcased 2 radiators just like that. no problems at all. dont push too hard on the filler neck it is not real sturdy. other than that its a good one.

yeah I was at the same I club event as junkie and without a sube.:-\ they were cool cats there. but I was glad I did not pay for food as I hear they ran out real early. I almost drove back up in my wagon after I got home just for fun.

:cool: I want to go play at shadows place. dam thats one hell of a plan. well keep us informed. Im not so sure about that saab 9000 IC idea. I think you could find a better fitting unit with better flow than that. I tried to stuff one in my car at one time and I decided that it was not going to happen without hacking the front of the car to bits and welding it back together in some other strange fashon. you know where to get a rebuild kit? I would assume this would be tested from a stop at full throttle? just pulling numbers out of my head here but my car goes into +boost before 1500 and full boost at 3000. I think. I will check in the morning to get some real numbers. this is with a worn stock turbo (oil burner) 2.5 exhaust with cat. VW IC on top. stock fuel control and boost levels. this set up is prone to over boost at higher RPM(4800 to red line). I was hoping to eliminate that problem with the instal of the TDO4.

tried alot of the sugested chemicals and methods and the safests one I found was turtle wax bug and tar remover. its real nice to the paint unlike some other methods. its verry effective on lots of nasty things.

mabey we(I) can use this as a cheap shiping oportunity? I have some stuff I would like to get rid of but will not be able to attend the event. If I find buyers for stuff can I get some one to deliver? thinking of things like a 2.5 no cat exhaust system for EA82T a spare bumper and other assorted leftovers. If any one needs anything on the way by San Jose let me know I would be more than willing to help.

Gary- I belive it applies to the flaper style maf ones not to sure about the hot wire ones like mine. I will do a little testing soon and get back. I just hooked the the 4 wire o2 today and it idles nicer already.

all talk I do not belive the switch you are refering to effects fuel control at all. at least it does not on my car.I did not like that stupid boost light. I have not used mine for some time now and it does not seem to have changed any thing. under boost the o2 shows a fat mixture and at cruise it cycles like normal. I will be changing my o2 to a 4 wire today to get better readings at idle. I am still on stock turbo as of now but am a little hesitant to gather the rest of the parts for the swap after reading all this. Garner- I do belive that the mounting of the flaper maf is inportant. I had the one on my toyota truck mounted sideways at first and it really did not like it. It would stumble and conplain I changed it to mount level and it was much more happy with that.

well its leaving today:-\ I had to put a smog leagal exhaust on it and get it passed but now its all set to go. my cousin is picking it up today. 600$ plus the cost of the smog test. he is going to use it for the summer untill his custom built mini is ready then it will go up for grabs again. I told him when he is ready to sell to let me know because I want to give the board members first crack at it again.

springs to lift the front could cause trouble. camber issues and worse than that would be the CV joint angle. I had a plan to use 1" x 2" square tubing to make a mini front lift kit. the spacers on the cross member and subframe would be easy. the ones for the strut towers would be a little more tricky as I wanted to alow for alignment adjustments of camber and caster. also would need a extension for the steering colum. I haver given up on this idea as the car does not do well at low speed off road or in the snow due to its lack of gearing and mildly oversize tires. I just won a set of lowering springs for a 86 to 89 accord on Ebay and plan to go back down in height and tire size. hopefuly keeping a good stiff rear end. so as soon as I get tires and wheels worked out my old stuff is up for grabs.

zymol is good stuff. smells good too:) I used to use Ibiz but its a order only deal and I never plan that far ahead. I only get the urge to wax my car(s) every once in a while and its real easy to go get the zymol from the parts store. Ibiz was really good on black cars. I dont know why but it worked. no swirlys.

well please keep me in the tuning loop. my stock turbo is going bad and I now have a TDO4 to install along with the wrx down pipe. I will be using the stock fuel system at stock boost levels. I am not looking for big perfomance gains just a better matching turbo. I will be runing stock cams as my low end sucks as it is. I would really like to see how you guys plumed the turbo Air outlet to the IC. that is my biggest hang up right now.

Well the EA82T is not a torque motor to start with and I can imagin with cams it must be awfull crapy on the low end. I would add a supercharger set up. ok now that you have finished laughing Im serious. I have heard ov a guy who built a rally car back in the day out of an ea81 I think. with both a turbo and a supercharger. It however had a dificult time keeping the axles from snaping due to the masive amounts of torque and HP. or your other option go with an EJ motor

the MAF is the guy right off the air filter housing. btw any one want to get rid of a wrx IC for trade of a proven VW intercooler set up? the new turbo set up I am going to run will not work with this IC. it works great with a stock turbo though. definatly requires hood mods. I might let the hood go with IC as a pair as it already has a scoop made for it. oh and I plumed the idle control hose directly to the IC.

I have done both ways and I have to say the proper way is the brass hammer way. mostly for safety. hamers of similar materials suposedly can shatter when whaked together. never have seen it happen but thats what the old school mechs say. If you are going to reboot the axle then you want to be carefull and save the threads.

I tried to get some real basic parts for my RX from them (Subaruparts.com). I think it was gaskets. I described the car and motor and what I needed. I recived a reply that said they only sold subaru parts. I replied and assured them that an RX with a EA82T was most certianly a subaru. I never recived a reply. they can go kick rocks I will shop my local parts stores.

I will be stoping by to pick up some parts. I will be in a ugly brown toyota 4x4. I would come sporting a roo but I have a serious rocky hill climb to do while I am up there and I just dont have the gears for that. depending on what way you come back you guys can stop by my place in san jo if you have time. I look like the dog but with a Rim of the world Pro rally shirt on. oh and cell phones wont work there. at least mine does not.

got mine from WJM I use #8 hyd. line. basically 1/2" ID. the hyd. line will not kink and give you a restriction either. yeah its got the T stat inside. but if you put your hand on the cooler to see if it has opened be carefull. It can get really hot.

glad to hear you got it fixed. good job. dont forget about sunday. how am I going to find you? I cant just look for the guy in an impreza now can I.

the lines are custom made 4000 psi hyd. lines and fittings. I made them myself with acess to the crimping tool needed to crimp on the fittings. the main reason is that they are highly resistant to abraision/heat/chemicals. it would really suck to loose a motor because of a cheapy hose getting a leak. the cooler fits the 240 ,242 turbo volvos from the early 80s I had to get some special metric fittings to go onto it.

I know people with leaky oil burners that just add oil. and they just keep on runing. amazing what some cars can put up with. he is a pit. verry good dog indeed.