rallyruss

4 nuts and its free. the belt is loose right? no puller needed.

this is the set up I run. its a volvo oil cooler with big ol hydraulic lines. if you run large enough lines and cooler you will have little to no pressure drop. the benifits of cooler oil far out weigh any minimal presure drop.

I belive in the 3,000 mile interval +or- a little. I work on a verry large fleet and one thing we do correctly is change oil at 3,000. we dont have many motors go bad no matter how badly they get abused. cooling systems and tune ups? well we could use some inprovement on those items. GD -VW AIR COOLED 1,000,000 miles? I started out working on Vdubs over 10 years ago. I love them but that kind of mileage? how many overhauls/rebuilds would that be? as for only changing the filter thats just sillyness. the aditives in the oil do all the hard work holding the contaminants and protecting the motor. the only time a oil filter plugs up is when the motor is on its last wheeze of life.

yes simple stuff first. violent shaking/ misfiring on acceleration is usually ignition related. how is the condition of the plug wires? coil? yes it is rather simple to look in the tank too. fuel problems are usually a little "softer" feeling than ignition. just some things I learned over the years from smarter people than myself. never has failed me yet.

was the 5 volt referance voltage ok? if the maf is shorting it out it wold cause all kinds of trouble. it goes to the TPS, Coolant temp, MAF, and mabey more. that would be my first check.

that shure sounds like its limited (or should be) to me. I have not done the mod myself so GD has far more experience with it of course. I was refering to what you could be damaging such as the CV shaft that you agree is a problem. axles pulling out of the joints does not sound like a verry solid set up to me. But I guess you have a fix for that GD?

yeah some times I do too. infact I may use this oportunity to get my 65 VW back up and rolling. its only been sitting for 10 years. my wife already says that if it goes I cant buy it back when he is done with it. So I guess it will be here for sale again some day.

I wont touch the body lift issue. its just a lift. not suspension not body. those terms apply to vehicles with frames. I have gotten myself into many a discussion as to what is what. check the other thread on lifts thats rollin right now. there are lots of lifts out there it seems and evin more drama about what is better for what reason. your car has lots of clearance in the rear compared to many of the new suv type kritters that are on the market now. increasing it could lead to camber/CV joint issues.

yeah it would seem like thats the case. I think old sube owners and old VW owners have somthing in common. they never have any ca$h:lol: well he is my cousin and I really need to just cut my losses and get rid of it. I still have it for now but not for long if I can get it to pass smog soon.

people are using them like coil over shocks in addition to the stock suspension. this only works on the rear and will limit the droop of the rear suspension but it will give you some lift. if you are really looking for lift I would go with a ready made lift kit. they are actually verry reasonably priced in conparison to some truck lifts.

it does sound as though the motor is not so healthy. I would repeat the test my self to be sure. compression testers can be had rather inexpensive. test it with a warm engine. also the 150 and 120 are too far apart. all cyl. should be within 10 psi on a good motor. yes you can have a head hasket failure without coolant loss or cross contamination. im with Calebz. if those numbers are good then he was correct in his diagnosis. motor not healthy. not good for a buyer.

well I may have a vacancy soon here in the stable. My cousin needs a car to get him thru the summer and was lookin at some in the 5,000 dollar range. I steped up and offerd my RX for 500$ and he wants it. well I will be sad to see it go :-\ but it means I have the freedom to get something else someday. or better yet I can actually concentrate on the projects I still have. man the selling delima is just as hard as the buying one. I tried to sell it here on the board unsucessfully already. but I realize that most of you have RXs and other subes just falling into your laps for free or dirt cheap so that was a waste. well one sube down. one to go?

Ok I will put a vote in the covers on dept. I have always kept my pullys coverd on my subes. years ago I built a VW gti without em and it worked ok. It did seem to cause a bit more wear and tear on the belts and pullys over time. it also is a bit of a safety issue. and last but not least its just a bit too graphic having all these subes running around with thier pullys exposed for all the world to see. for shame! put some covers on those naked pullys.

The code 22 is speed sensor related. the factory rundown on testing it is rather crazy so I wont try to confuse you with it. the code 24 is for the temp sensor. I would suspect this as your problem area. I really dont know how the computer controled carbs work on a sube verry well so I will refrain from guessing. of course you have checked all the basics like fuses and good clean grounds(to the motor too)?

you do have the gaskets off right? it should not take that much to pop it apart. if you really do have it all free I would verry carfully pry the halfs apart after some good wacks with the dead blow hamer. I have a tool used for carpentry I guess that is thin and sharp on the end yet verry strong used for prying stuff. It works great on thing like that. I wish I knew the correct name for it. I asked a carpenter friend and he called it a hoochie bar:rolleyes: dont think thats the propper name.

look at bank account and think about your bills. if after that you are still convinced go for it. or the method my wife uses on me. "if you want a new one one has to go" I am too lazy/poor to put out enough effort to get rid of a car with time and money invested just to buy another that will require time and money that I dont have.

I dont know about the HKS unit but I spliced in at the back of the fuse box. I stripped back the appropriate wires and solderd in the turbo timers wiring. I think its the best location to hook it up.

sorry no pic but they are on the intake manifold.

most parts stores and sears type places sell em. short littler guy that you use a 3/8 ratchet with.

yeah fox I ran into the naughty matsu$hita problem before as well. actually rather comical.

yes same stuff different smell. you are correct a voltage drop test alone on a solinoid would not be too helpfull. I should have stated the need for a vacume gauge to verrify that the solinoid is switching. I prefer the V drop test because it tests the ENTIRE circit in a verry short time in conparison to following a flow chart full of resistance tests. I get paid to diagnose and do it quickly. my labor costs the customer over 100$ an hour. people ask questions when you are into a job over an hour without a diagnosis. common sense and a good undrerstanding of the circit in question will get me a result faster than a factory manual flow chart. I call truce. we each have our own favorite for various reasons. The last time I tried to bring a new method of troubleshooting to the masses I was chased with burning torches and called a voltage droping freak. looks like I will have to hide my methods for fear of persicution again. this was what I was afraid of in the begining. hopefully this shined some light on BOTH testing methods.

onthe EA82 I know there is a bolt hiding behind the head gasket if it sticks to the block. dont know if yours is the same.

well I have not been clear enough I guess. there is no need to disconnect any thing when voltage drop testing. ALL actuators/solinoids ect. work off battery voltage. yes that may varry a bit but its real easy to check what B+ is. as for "line resistance" a ruel of thumb is that you are allowed .25V drop accross connectors and at most .5v at a switch. the sum of all voltage drops will allways = battery voltage resistance testing is easy to understand and removes the thinking part of troubleshooting. it also will help diagnose a bad component. this is all very true. let me give just a few examples of when I would say it is not usefull. checking battery cables and connections. a BAD battery cable may show little to no resistance when checking ohms because a meter does not push enough amps to test the circit as it would actually be used. a tiny strand of wire may have verry little resistance but will not start you car. I have seen plenty of bad solinoids and coils with GOOD resistance readings to know not to trust resistance alone. just recently I was trying to find a bad ground in a prelude dash system. I started out checking resistance and it all looked good. less than a couple of ohms on the ground side. I tore into everything. finally I decided to check voltage drops on the ground circit. when the power was on it droped 5v across a bracket to the body that supplyed the ground to the cluster. I have been bit too many times by resistance testing. It just does not simulate a real load on a circit properly to give you accurate readings. use a 7/8 wrench or 22mm. if its really difficult to get to us a blue point tool# YA8875 or generic versions avl. at many parts stores.

thanks Will I looked at that. I see Tex appears to have bolted his directly to the up pipe where garner had to raise and tip the turbo a bit. I suppose the vehicle differance could be the reason. I wonder if tex found a elbow to use to the maf? I have not found any real final pics of either ones car once COMPLETELY done. I am curious. I need to get my car back up and running asap.

who has done the swap to the WRX TDO4 turbo? does any one have pics or thoughts on dificulty? I know the bolt patern is a little off no biggy I can weld. I know the down pipe from the wrx must be used. but what about the cooling and oil lines? any other interferance problems? what about the turbo inlet to maf?