rallyruss

mabey I could take a peak at it and we could work a deal on the other items we have been discussing? only if can get it going good for you of course. hit me up. I have a good deal of tools for trouble shooting.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11198&page=1&pp=10&highlight=lifter+tick if this does not help do a search tons of old discussions on lifter noise. as for the windows start at the fuse then see if the drivers side control gets power and switches it properly.

NGK plugs and wires. its some of the best stuff and its affordable. I cant belive they still sell s*#tfires. when I used to work at a parts store we had tons of complaints on them. you cant go wrong with OE stuff either.

PO420 alone is a bit of a scarry thing. like stated above it can be a false code if the sensors are bad or there is exhaust damage/leaks. friendly j has a good point as to how O2 readings should appear. the rear o2 sensor should be just cruising along with little to no voltage change while the front O2 is oscilating like crazy. oh yeah bank 1 question. that is a J1930(OBDII) term used to distinguish banks like on a v6 or v8 there are 2 banks that are watched seperately. the bank with cyl.#1 is bank 1. if it only monitors one bank(most 4 cyl. motors) it will simply call it bank 1 now you may see B1S1 or B1S2. B1 is bank 1 or B2 for bank 2. the S is for sensor the number folowing the S stand for before the cat(1) or after(2) the second o2 is used primarily for catalist efficency while the first is used for fuel control. I suggest clearing the code after O2 function is verifyed and see if it comes back. if it does well you may need a new cat.

no only 4 squirls under the hood in those years. yeah I notice the harsher ride on speed bumps espically but load capacity is great. I would guess you may come out close to stock height depending on how drastic the drop was intended to be. I have actually considered going that way when the larger all terrain tires wear out and I go back to some nice street tires. I realize that my sube gearing sucks with no low range and larger tires.

that sure does look a bit too close to the ground for much puddle spashing but there are a good deal of parts missing so it may be protected enough when all assembled. good cold air location.

now lets see them on the car. whats up with the seats? where are they from?

sho nuff ebay did have some. all the stock ones are used but rather cheap. what about a VF34? I could adapt it to fit but would it work? I know some of you are running larger turbos now whats the results? I am not looking for major power gains but good usable power

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6364&page=1&pp=10&highlight=honda+spring+lift a couple pics in this thread

I need a source for parts or a complete turbo for a stock ea82turbo. does ayone have any sources? I have my turbo at a rebuilder right now but they are having dificulty finding parts at a reasonable price. the cartrige alone is 500$ I would also consider a good quality WRX or legacy turbo for a reasonable price. yes I know they are somewhat different.

ok I must be wierd because I like electrical and happen to almost understand it. only took me 10 years of study:rolleyes: sorry but I need to correct this. The sensor is fed a 5volt ref on one of the 2 wires. the temp sensor is a variable thermistor. so a cold motor will register 4. somthing volts depending on how stone cold it really is. as it warms up the voltage will drop to say .5 V . this voltage is read on the return signal wire to the ecm. the 5V supply should not change. most SENSORS work on a 5 volt referance to make sure there is a stable voltage supply at all times. if it were to use 12 volts there would be too much cance of having a voltage supply drop during excessive loads on the charging system that fould effect the entire system. voltage = amps x resistance (ohms law) ohms(resistance) testing is verry easy but may give you a incorect diagnosis of a component. you also need to have what ever it is you are testing disconnected completely from the car. voltage or voltage drop testing is the most valuable test method and the quickest once you understand the principle. ok I have attempted to explain this before and it was largly ignored so I will not try again. if you want to learn look it up under voltage drop testing on the net. There is plenty of info out there. (hint: the coolant sensor test is a voltage drop test of sorts.) if you have any more questions feel free to ask. I could sit here typing all day in an attempt to explain the proper and entire operation of a multimeter. try this link http://www.cnnw.net/~fourty/voltdroptest.htm

I have the first honda spring conversion (the year does mater) and no rear sway bar. I use the car on pavement 95% of the time and occasionally end up on a fun little dirt road. I dont feel the sway bar is necessary for my purposes. there are exceptions. I would consider is if I were to use it for autoX or some other tight corner racing. I have been told that a sway bar is a crutch for poorly designed suspension. I have also seen evidence that they can cause accidents. they do NOT help handling on uneven pavement. It actually will put you into a slide. I know of two people that have totaled out cars shortly after installing sway bars ONLY. Both lost control on sections of uneven pavement that they knew well. one rolled over and the other stoped in a telephone pole. Of course driver error must have played a part in these incidents but not completely.

the intake piece inside the fender acts like a noise supressor. it can be removed to gain better air flow. this will not help you much unless you isolate you filter from the engine compartment hot air as previously sugested. you can make the opening to the inner fender bigger too. that seems to help. in all seriousness I would concentrate on installing an effective intercooler. Espically if you plan on raising boost levels. this will help your performance and relyability much more than a "street racer" intake will.

I guess I am in the minority group then. I would avoid a welded or spool type rear end. a good lsd is your best bet for cornering. espically if you are just geting started in the sport. its better to finish farther back in the pack than to DNF. as stated you will be sidways (or backwards) a lot with a solid rear end. also lost of strain on your drive train components. a locker would work good as well but I dont know of any available for our cars.

nv zeno- you are correct my friend. yes it is a technicality on the visual inspection but I have installed all the necessary other smog devices for a 87 toy 22RE(injected) and I used split loom to cover my harnesses so the smog tech would really have to nit pik it to find the few details that dont add up to a normal 22RE. as for the second point yes I do have a conection that I used last time to get it passed but I am trying to go down the legal path this time. If that does not work all I need to do is get a part time job at a smog shop and use my own liscense for testing (my current job does not do that kind of testing). sorry to have vered off the path of the thread but this all would be aplicable on a sube too.

Red line makes a whole line of synthetic fluids. they are verry high quallity and cost a bit more than your standard synthetic stuff. its verry popular in racing. manufactured here in the bay area. the MTL is specificly designed for manual transmissions. I have used it on many cars with great results.

good thinking adding a o2 with a heater is a great idea. I did the same thing on my toy 4x4 when I went injected. I used a 3 wire ford o2. it lights off real quick now and gets it into closed loop faster.

normally you need to work at the dealer of you choice if you want the factory training. personally I would go get some regular automotive training first. then approach the dealer.

If the synchro assy. is just sticking and not actually broken I highly recomend RED LINE MTL. make sure the shift bushings are all in proper order. I assume there is no shifter slop? if its come apart like GD says then yeah you are SOL

no the cylinders are not like a Vdub motor. they are part of the engine case. you may want to pick up a decent repair manual. I have used the haynes books for engine repair with good luck. of course the factory books are the best but are harder to find and more $$$. you will need a 14MM allen socket and a piston pin remover of some type in adition to the standard engine building tools. I forget who it was but some one used the long 14 MM tensioner nut instead of an allen to remove the case plugs.

obd II system is always looking at TPS it uses the start up number as a base line to know what exact voltage closed throttle is. The problem is that it has a hard time determinting if a dorp out was caused by your foot or an open in the system. I am not saying you guys are crazy. I only wanted to point out that sube drive train slop is a bit of a problem. if you have another problem on top of that then yeah you really will be buckin and jerkin. like I said the best test method is to use a high sample rate meter and sweep the TPS. if you do not have one find someone who does. I would help if you were local but of course its not the case. that is one of the only ways to catch a glitch like that. good luck I understand it sucks to have a hyper senitive car.

I had a verry similar problem. all it turned out to be was a loose fitting oil cap was letting the crank case vapors out. only at a stop with the a/c or vent blowing. all I did was to twist the cap back a little to make it seal better. no more smell. now a raw fuel smell is different. look for leaks along the lines and fittings.

I would say it sounds like ignition. Misfire problems often show up under load. do the wires ect. mabey a coil problem? what do you mean by instructions for wires? take old wire off install new one repeat. sorry I had to. if you dont have them already NGK makes great wire sets for our cars. they fit good and are very high quality.

here in CA it has to go to a JY to get a salvage title. mechanics can put a lein on a vehicle as well. dont know if your laws are similar

The mounts are verry soft to give you a nice vibration free feel when the car is running. ALL subarus I have driven espically newer legacys have the drive train slop I am refering to. It fits your description perfectly. belive it or not thats how it is. I used to modify VWs a lot and we would use stiffer rubber or urathane mounts to get rid of that nasty little lurch on and off throttle. GM went so far as to add little shock absorbers on the motor to minimize this problem on thier cars. yes a bad TPS or TPS circit can cause a similar problem but primarily on acceleration. A 2003 obdII car can pick up a bad TPS no problem. You would have a code set. Rich- an ohm meter may not update fast enough to detect a TPS drop out. I use a high sample rate graphing meter. it has found TPS drop outs that my old Fluke meter missed.