rallyruss

its not really a hesitation many subes new and old have this along with some other cars. It is caused by slop in the motor/trany mounts. I found that you either need to be verry gentle getting on and off the gas or try to find some stiffer mounts. I have also have expreimented with straping the tail of the trans. in place with old seat belt material. it actually worked well.

I would check the codes first. spfi I assume? connect green connectors and count the blinks.

look at outer cyl. length. they are different. rx, 4wd and 2wd all are different.

ah yes this is true. I had KYBs on my old 85 wagon and now on my 87. you may notice there is a gap in the listings for front struts. this is thanks to subaru:banghead: they purchased the rights to sell KYB struts for those models as long as KYB did not sell them under thier own name. ah but no problem. I simply used the struts listed for 85 4x4 wagon on my 87 4x4 wagon. no problem. bolts up rides good. hope this is helpfull.

PB is good stuff. I feel that tri flow is better though. W/D 40 is rather crappy as a lube.

yes you do need to lift the motor to change the gaskets. but its not that hard only two 10 mm nutz and jack it up a bit. I think turbone is refering to repair/replacing the pipe? you may want to delete your other duplicate posts. mods?

I made mine from fiberglass. yeah lots of time. make sure you put a decent flange on it for attacment.

I am not sure what "on line" test you are looking for but I do know of other methods. some people use a smog test probe and "sniff" by the radiator cap while open. or thy sell a "block test" kit at napa and other stores. a good pressure tester will help too.

trust me its a lot easyer than some cars. If you dont have time or know how then pay to get it done but its really not too hard to do.

NOOOOO:eek: pag oil good sealer really bad the sealers are ruining every thing from compressors to a/c machines. dealers will void any warranty on A/C components if the system has been contaminated with sealer. same goes for a/c machines. I recently attended a class on this and the only solution for a system with that sealer junk in it was to replace ALL the components it came in contact with.

thats a good one:lol: um no thats an awful test. at least run it into a container and see how much it puts out and how long it took. that would be a bit more acurate. my teacher used to joke about people using the fuel squirt test(sarcastic). I never thought people really did that.

I would guess spark. mabey bad plug wires? bad TPS may give you a similar symptom. shift into second early and romp on it while rpm is still low. if it misses its most likely a spark delivery problem.

that must be a deadhaed presure correct? thats sure not normal running pressure.

personally I like the drop in filter and remove the silecer in the fender trick. I also open the hole to Fresh air up a bit. not saying that cone filters are not a good thing as I do have one on my truck due to the limited space I had avl. make sure to get a quality unit. the shady ones can let dirt thru and worst case ruin a motor. yes I have seen this. it was a foam unit with really large pores for better "flow".

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16140&highlight=accel+coil+dead yet another one. hmm I feel like a coil fourtune teller:lol:

I have had head gasket blow and still look half way decent. knowing these motors I would guess head gasket. not the case. GD is correct too. get the heads checked out.

well hopefully its lifter noise http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17062 hope its not a bad bearing or a piston slaping. thats all bad.

I will bite. mabey. I suppose anything is possible. I know for a fact that chevy vortec injectors will not open unless they have enough pressure. this of course is different. if I am not mistaken the injector guts are like a needle and seat shape. I dont thing too much presure would hold them closed. have you checked voltage at the injectors? the resistor is hooked up correct? your killin me here whats the actual pressure? I am about to send you a gauge to use just so I can find out what you have.

well they are definately stiffer NOT longer. when compared side by side uncompressed they are verry close in lenght. I do not know the actual spring rate. the coils are visibly thicker.

if you want stormtrooper AKA Donald has a spare car like yours but stock. it runs but needs some lovin. I know he was thinking bout sellin it.

you should be glad. if everyone loved to camp you can see the problems that would create. well most of my friends either camp/ backpack/wheel. this is why I still have my toyota truck. I love taking the wagon off road but for the real serious stuff its nice to have 33s a locker and low gears and a torquey injected motor. dont get me wrong its great that some of you are building your roos into lean mean wheelin machines. its just not my cup of tea. I have a vehicle that does that already. Brian why cant you pass smog? modifications or problems? I rember you discussing this before but I forget the exact problem. I may be able to help.

no grinding just takes a lot of effort? probably a linkage problem. hopefully.

that must be the one:lol: no motor was only doing about 2000 rpm cruising up to a light no funny cams this should be in my other post actually continue breakin in the new guy. hi jacking complete.

I got mine from a fellow board member for a verry reasonable price. its been discussed before but the restriction BEFORE the turbo keeps velocity up to help spool the turbo faster. the stock turbo is a bit small and increasing flow to and from it may cause over boost conditions at high rpm/speed. I was advised to wait on the modified up pipe untill I had a larger turbo to match it with. I can weld up my old one and let you have it for really cheap if you are interested.