rallyruss

I agree with partsman. I also came in here with prior sube know how just like your self and proceded to state the obvious. I was going to do the same as turbone and let you know privately so as to prevent embarasment. dont take all this wrong. welcome to the board. its good to have some more experience among our numbers. now if you can tell me why it appears I have a bent valve after a timing belt broke I will salute you.:-\

well after a little pondering I cracked beer 1 and began. at shot of jack 1.5 its out on the floor. I will tear into it tomarow and report back. oh yeah before poping it out I applied compresed air to the offending cyl. and I hear air blowing out the exhaust.:-\ valves closed of course. grrr stupid car:confused:

nope not off a tooth. I was really carefull about that and cyl. # 4 on the same bank is just fine. ok I pulled the valve cover off. what a pain in the rear in car. no loose parts. all the springs lifters rockers appear to be just fine. and it cant be a broken cam because cyl. 4 is ok and is driven after cyl # 2. ok I guess I will start to pull the motor tonight. I better get some motivational beer on hand because I really dont want to do this. might as well try to have a good time at it.

I dont think so. it runs rather well on the three remaining cyl. no funny noises. but that shure would be nice if it was fixable in the car. I will go pop the VC and get back on that.

its only a slight difference in charge between the R12 and 134a most people dont evin worry about the slight difference. I assume you changed the reciver dryer and evacuated the system like I recomended? if so you should be close. what size cans are you using? still no gauges? thats the other good way to guestimate how much to charge. add untill the pressures are in the correct range for the conditions. oh and dont forget the fan. no fan = crappy A/C

alright now things are bad. I did the water pump/new belts. fire it up and it runs on three cyl. only. cyl. # 2 (same side as broken belt) does not fire. I checked spark. its good. tested compression while running. only 25 lbs:( whats up? I thought these were non interferace motors. that was one of the reasons I got into subes because I thought that was so smart.

if you blew a link there is a problem. it takes a lot of amps to pop one of those. 2.99 expensive? thats less than one drink at a bar or a hot dog at a ball game. I would be concerned about what the problem really is. that may be the expensive part. you say the voltage kicks when you turn on the A/C? is that when it blew?

first off whoever shorted your system out is responsible for all this damage. second I seriously doubt that your mechanic changed the entire wire harness. or really knows how to troubleshoot. I would find out what codes are actually being set and report back. look for a better mechanic too.

looks like a huge speaker box:D nice work. good on ya.

the vac advance may effect timing that much. I dont tink you are going after a bad coil. BTW resistance testing a coil is a poor test. I have seen bad coils with good resistace and coils that worked just fine with bad resistance. coil would be a problem under a load. make sure you have the vacume to the disty set properly. 4 psi of fuel pressure is not too far out there was that runing or static? try disconecting you egr temporarily. just pull off and plug the vac line. egr is normaly aplied during part throttle. lots of these carbs have problems with loose throttle shafts. give it a wiggle test while running and listen for RPM change. you should have changed those gaskets at the oil pump if you had em off. that is the most likely culpret of the ticking noise.

I doubt that air is the issue. you need to get a good pressure reading on that fuel.

thats what mine did when it snaped the other day. you may also want to test the neg. side of the coil. if the light flickers that means you have pulses going to it. no light means open coil. steady light means no signal to coil. dont forget about the transistor on the coil bracket. what about the radio instalation? how did you wire that up?

well the 10x1.25 studs, nuts, and washers ran almost 200 with shiping. not cheap at all. but they are far superior in quality. my only other thought is to find em in 7/16 fine thread and helicoil the case. not the best idea as its easy to go wrong in the instalation of 18 helicoils.

ok Im an idiot. I have had a small coolant leak at the water pump since early winter. I kept puting it off and fixing other peoples cars and neglecting my own. well after many miles it said no more. the Tbelt finaly was weakened by the coolant and went snap. fortunatly I was close to home and was able to tow strap it home. I need to boot out a few other cars then I will give it the love and attention it has been desiring. just a reminder that yes they are tough and will put up with a lot but dont forget to listen when they need work.

TPS is a rather important input to the ECM in regards to fuel delivery.why would you ask? do you have a suspect? I still think there is a basic fuel delivery problem. if it kicks over with the starting fluid you either have no(low) fuel delivery, Egr stuck open, unmeterd air leak.

well if you run into trouble near by me here in San Jo CA let me know. I dont think I will be making it up to the show/event this time. I have to be "on call" on most weekends this summer. is it an Auto trans or manual? a whine could be a bad thing or may just need a good fluid change.

ok so let me just do a little related hi jack. I recently tried to order cyl. head studs from ARP. and due to my own stupidity I ordered them in 10 by 1.25 when they are actually 11 by 1.25. Doh. of course they dont make both the long and short sizes to fit 11 by 1.25. I think they did have the short ones. so if any one has a source for head studs or we get enough interest to get ARP to make some up special. (they do that too) It would be a great alternative to head bolts in an aluminum block.(there see its kinda related)

never saw one snap yet but any thing is possible. pulling the motor is usually a better option than an in car job.

hmm thats some thinkin there. I like it. WJM has some idaes/ spring hook ups. suba styles used coil overs off a mk4 vw

yup yup. you say its already there? and not hooked up? why thats just crazy talk. yeah the temp drop is great for performance and engine life. I have also tested to see if my car runs lean at all and it actually runs rather rich under boost just like its supposed to.This with an intercooler that appears to be verry efficient with my simple test methods. just do it. what kind of set up is it? got pics? there are more and more intercooled EA82T's all the time. I love it.

they normaly just pull off. some times they are a bit tight. mabey a little penitrating oil. if all else fails just break it with some vice grips. I know its savage but it might work.

when you go WOT there is what they call "clear flood mode". basicaly it cuts down the fuel. try part throttle. I would get a better gauge. if the regulator somehow got stuck closed it would have verry high fuel pressure. never seen it but thats what you would have. if you do not have a guage pull the return off and make sure its flowing good back to the tank. timing? rember the basics.

not really. egr solinoid just allows vacume to be applied to the diaphram on the EGR valve from the manifold. if it were stuck open the EGR would be applied all the time. this allows exhaust gas to dump back into the intake. this would not evin idle most likely. see corky Im not just makin stuff up. I have seen it refered to as such on other cars of the same era as well. you are correct it is not a fitting description but they called it that any way. this is why we now have standardized terms/diagnostic connectors ect. and as a technician I love it. I dont have to deal with fords (or any other manufactures) stupid names for simple parts and special tricks to get comunication out of a PCM.

my diagram comes from ALLDATA but they usually just scan the factory one and slap it up there. not the most user frendly method. I know it is not what we expect to see as far as a crank angle sensor. in fact I doubt that it has anything to do with this problem. The dealer guy will be rather lost tring to work on your loyal any how. I would either fix it your self or get it to a good independant shop.

its refering to the distributor signal. we hashed this out before. on the diagram I have it calls the ign. pick up the crank angle sensor. buddydog check your mail;)