rallyruss

AH tex you are right on line. well evryone is. WJM that was a great set up for an oil cooler sale. Thats a good thing as I have one of those adaptors all set up on my car from you. It now runs cooler on a day like today with close to 100 deg. temps and the A/C on. as for my turbo timer it is also a boost guage and knows when you have been running hard. It alters you idle time off of that. I make a lot of short trips so my base setting is at 30 sec. after a good drive I may see closer to 60 sec. yes coking is the term.

well dont know what to tell you. I have seen motors where the bearings were shot and there was glitter in the oil. then again my EA82t has less than 20,000 miles on it and I get glitter in the oil now. I called CCR and they said its common. I still am afraid of the dreaded knock knock knock. but Its still running good as of now. gonna get crackin on my spare motor soon. if it has good oil pressure keep running it.

I have been to utah a few times and I really enjoy arches natl. monument. I also hear that canyon lands is cool as well. I am not a utah expert or any thing like that but I would definately say it has much better eye candy than say a state like nebraska ( no offense nebraskans but dam thats a boring state to drive thru)

I am having a little difficulty with brain function as its late and I just got off work. my boost/vac gauge reads in bar. and at idle its at about -.8 bar if it is correct. so that would be a similar reading to yours. the spike on decel is normal because the motor pulls a vacume on the closed throttle plate. I will pay attention a little closer tomarow and get some real numbers. what part are you concerned about?

no balast resistors here but good thinking. if the car is starting the disty signal is probably not it. I vote maf as well. if the computer does not see air flow it will shut down the fuel pump. its a safty feature. I know the flaper style mafs actually have a little switch inside for this purpouse. not sure how the hot wire mafs do it but its the same theory. of course wiring could be the problem as well if the signal never gets to the ecm.

dope riiiiimmms:slobber:

uh ok lets get all upset at someone with the same interests as us. I heard this other places before. like the VW sceen. well I sAY WE ASSIMILATE HIM LIKE THE BORG !

there are some other easy tests too. with the key on eng. off you should have aprox .5V on the o2 signal wire. this is a referance voltage sent to the sensor by the ecm for circit verification. if its less than that you may have a shorted o2 circit. did you use a universal o2? if so did you accidentaly crimp the ground shielding to the signal? I have seen this before. if you do see .5v test drive with the meeter hooked up when you accelerate hard with a warm engine you should see the voltage climb to .8 or higher then on decel it should drop to almost 0V and at cruise it should fluctuatefrom .3 to .7rapidly. actual voltages may be slightly different but should be close to what I have stated. good luck

the egr sol. and low boost should not be related. try disconecting the egr sol and pluging the vac lines. have you checked your exhaust system? is it pluged up and not allowing exhaust flow and thus low boost? are there other drivability concerns as well?

well dont know check this out http://www.gcg.com.au/technical/technical.html I belive the legacy turbo would be more efficient and better suited to our motors. finding them is the pain.

I did it finaly. I busted out the sawsall and made the hole bigger. air box and body. sealed off the gap to the engine compartment. test drive felt really good. dont know if I can claim any actual power increases but it sure pulled hard. ok so thats my idea of a good cheap air box mod. no hot air here.

dam I need a ej20T:slobber: is the trans from a EJ as well or is there an adaptor plate? I spotted a few bad arse subes last summer when I was down there. cool to see them out to play.

those are some good sources. I will need it when I design a new larger turbo system. there are also sources like summit, jegs, and JC whitney.

as a mechanic I would call it a strut for the simple fact that calling it a coil over makes the parts guy think you have some funky aftermarket set up on there. so to actually answer the question at hand. yes you can buy replacment struts. KYB makes good ones that ride well and last. you will need a strut spring tool to compress the spring and replace the strut.

I will back up the MTL from red line. Have used it in manny different vehicles all with excelent results.

running in parallel would not work for 6v fans on a 12v system but in series would work if the fans were the same amp draw and vlotage.

good ideas guys but thats the wrong way to test a battery cable. a bad battery will give you the same result. by the way how is the battery? a low or bad battery will give you a click and no start as well. the correct way to check the battery cables is to put one lead at the battery lug(pos lead pos lug)then connect the groung lead to the starter side of the cable. crank the motor or click it in your case. any reading over .5 volts means you either have bad connections or a wasted cable. do the same on the ground cable as well as it can cause just the same problem.

I have no actual figures or data but I would think two stock turbos would work. why not a single bigger turbo? less plumbing problems to deal with.

one of my subes came with autolite plugs. changed em out not long after getting the car. I had autolite in an old datsun 210 when I first bought it as well and it really made a difference with a new set of NGK as well. there is another use for champion plugs. Chrysler products like them. They can actualy set codes if you run something else. I see it at work on our fleet vehicles.

I dont have specific specs on hand. they are floating around the web somewhere. I recall that the wagon and RX springs are the tallest with the highest spring rate. I would not try to go any taller than that to prevent you camber and C/V angles from getting to wacky. subarustyles put coil overs from a gen 4 Jetta/golf on his to provide a drop. they could be adjusted up as well to some extent.

We can all throw guesses out real easy. but I cannot help you untill you give me some actual voltage readings. shot gun repair can be expensive. True diagnosis can save you alot.

RHB5 was used on multiple cars like the legacy turbo and the ford(mazda) probe. they are changed a bit form each aplication. I too have tried to find info on them and have had verry little luck. thy are part of the VF series I know the legacy is a VF11. I forget wich one ours is. I think its VF7? going from poor memory here.

the oil return would lead me to belive that you have turbo heads. you should also have a place for the oil supply line to attach.

did you check voltages at the relay? A low freon charge will NOT affect your blower motor.

pressure switch?